Intake pipe

[Guest]

Was looking at making up an intake pipe for the vr4. The main reason being to bring the pod forward in the bay so it gets more cold air.

Now i had a quick look at the bay and have come up with a few ideas that might be feasible and just thought ide get some feedback.
idea 1.
bolt up an intake pipe from the afm and then attach the pod.

idea 2
replace the rubber pipe before the afm with a metal pipe than run an intake pipe off the afm and then hook that up to the pod.

for the intake pipe was thinking mild steel with a hpc coating.

the other thing that came to mind is where can i put some brackets to keep the pipe sturdy and secure and obviously ide need some shielding too.


i think if i try this i might bite off more than i can chew.


any ideas and thoughts would be much appreciated.


cheers

 

[Guest]

If you manage to make an stainless intake pipe that replaces the stock rubber one, I'd be interested. Otherwise I might be able to organise the same guy that did one for my GTiR to do a handful for the Legnum.

 

[Hipsi]

My mate and I will be working on this when I get mine.

 

[Guest]

if you look at the intake pipe its a Y pipe and it thins out in sertain places, would be ideal to make it 3inch at AFM then reduce to 2.5 but space could be an issue. the pipe from the AFM is already 3' but goes real small after the Y peice

 

[bradc]

or you could always keep the MAF in the same place and put a pipe in front of it.

Pod's are stupid in turbo cars anyway, too much heat. Stick with the stock setup.

 

[Guest]

problem is the car came in with a pod and i dont have the airbox and no one is willing to sell theres to me.
my other option i was thinking about is an arc induction box

 

[Guest]

on a side note does anyone on here have the product number for the K&N pod that is specific for our afm?

 

[Madhav]

I will be asking Dave at RPW to relocate the battery to the boot and make a custom cold air intake pipe and air box in the place where the battery used to be. Maybe he could make up a kit to sell after it's al sorted? This will be within the next few weeks.

 

[VR4Rocket]

Have a look at my car......
Kevins 1996 VR4....see how mine is done

 

[SiliconAngel]

i dont have the airbox and no one is willing to sell theres to me.

Have you tried looking on Yahoo Auctions Japan? I'm sure you'll be able to find one there. Or get one new from Mitsubishi Japan. There are people who can help with these things, you just have to do a bit of research

 

[Guest]

I will be asking Dave at RPW to relocate the battery to the boot and make a custom cold air intake pipe and air box in the place where the battery used to be. Maybe he could make up a kit to sell after it's al sorted? This will be within the next few weeks.

Iv been humming and harring about what to do with my airbox/fuesbox cover design. I am planning to sell a few in NZ, but id be keen to help out you aussies too. Obviously i dont want to go posting up the file, since anyone can go and make $$ from it (took me really****en ages to get it reproducable and cheap, take an HKS pod, and clear the prefacelift bonnet etc), but if one of you guys (Madhav?) wanted to make a batch of 5 or something to sell cheap or as a fundraiser to help pay for OZVR4, id be keen to help out..

If youv got a sheetmetal folder, you can knock out a blank really cheap. Certainly a damn sight cheaper than paying a pro to design you one, mine cost < $50aus in stainless

The design needs a tweek or two around the bottom of the fusebox, one point got messed up for some reason, and it doesnt seal up to the headlight, but its good enough for me.

Im just going to use draft stop foam tape to seal it against the chassis rail.

Give me a PM if someone wants to do the leg work.

 

[Madhav]

Looks like a pretty good design Mike. Unfortunately I'm not in a position to have access to any tools or a workshop at all. That's part of the reason I'm sending my car off to RPW. I wish I did have access to a workshop though as I would implement that design. Especially now that I am in need of it. Someone else could take up the offer though surely? I'd be their first customer. I'd be yours if you offered it to me. I might get a quote from Dave first before I ask him to do the work.

How much time would you estimate it take to relocate the battery to the boot and install this airbox/intake Mike? Assuming you had the right tools etc.

 

[Guest]

Looks like a pretty good design Mike. Unfortunately I'm not in a position to have access to any tools or a workshop at all. That's part of the reason I'm sending my car off to RPW. I wish I did have access to a workshop though as I would implement that design. Especially now that I am in need of it. Someone else could take up the offer though surely? I'd be their first customer. I'd be yours if you offered it to me. I might get a quote from Dave first before I ask him to do the work.

How much time would you estimate it take to relocate the battery to the boot and install this airbox/intake Mike? Assuming you had the right tools etc.

Possibly RPW could fold them up, or someone else might offer.
I could make them here, but itd be a collosal waste of freight/packaging to send them over, when you can get them cut locally..

I did my own battery relocation, ditched the spare wheel since i decided id rather have the boot space (ended up with subs in there anyway), and put the stock battery box in there.

Cost about $80nz for the wire/earth (running split battery, with the earth to the boot floor), $10 for some stainless bolts, and $30-40 for the right fuse/holder.

Cant remember, but at a guess i think it took 3-4ish hours? the time consuming bit was painting up the old battery tray, and running the heavy wire down the side of the car.

 

[Madhav]

Miike maybe I'll PM you for a design when I'm back in Perth in a month and approach some sheet metal workers around where I live. Sounds like something to do on an afternoon with some mates. Thanks for the info.

 

[SiliconAngel]

Mike have you got a photo of what it looks like in the wheel well under the false floor?

 

[Guest]

Have you tried looking on Yahoo Auctions Japan? I'm sure you'll be able to find one there. Or get one new from Mitsubishi Japan. There are people who can help with these things, you just have to do a bit of research

ive pmd a few people and no one has replied

 

[Guest]

Mike have you got a photo of what it looks like in the wheel well under the false floor?

ummm yeah kinda its a bit embarassing though,, it was before i put in a decent earth wire or fuse..

Hey this was 2 years ago, when i was 21 and didnt know squat about my leggie:wanker:, doing my own stereo and battery relocation was huge deal. It got there in the end though.

There is a lot of dead space there too if you wanted to run a dual battery setup or something too. I decided that if i want to go out of town, its easier to pack the spare in the boot rather than have the battery up top all the time.

PS sorry about the thread hijack// There is usually an intake or two for sale on trademe, but it looks like you guys / carsten has been on the scrounge for a while now id just keep an eye out, or post in the NZ for sale/wanted section of CVR4?

 

[Guest]

no its actually good i had another thread going about battery relocation because my idea is to make an intake pipe that runs to the spot where the battery is now and make a nice little shield in the corner like you did.

can i ask how you extended the positive and negative cables from the engine bay?

 

[Guest]

no its actually good i had another thread going about battery relocation because my idea is to make an intake pipe that runs to the spot where the battery is now and make a nice little shield in the corner like you did.

can i ask how you extended the positive and negative cables from the engine bay?

The power supply just goes out the LH guard, around the wheel well, in through a grommet along down the side of the car (opposite side of any RCAs if youv got them..) under the rear seat, and into the boot.

You could run an earth back, but its not ideal, i just have a meter of the thickest cable i could find to a bolt in the tyre well.

Then i just soldered the new wire to the starter wire, and fuse box power. Some people go for a junction box or something like that, but i didnt bother.

The fuse has to go down the back by the battery, incase the cable shorts on the body somewhere.

 

[Madhav]

I didn't realise how much extra space there'd be if the tyre was removed, should be enough for a sub down there also? Cool, excellent info Mike, thanks a lot.