marksanne
Hesitantly Boosting
Hmm... just opened up ASA JP and found out the partnumber is always (PFL & FL) MD628056. However, when you google this number it shows both black and brown versions... Then I looked up the V6 N/A ICS number. Hmm again! Same number, both for PFL and FL, so if you buy a NEW one, it should work on both V6/VR4 and therefore interchangeable after all. BUT... upon selecting the ICS partnumber in ASA, this warning/remark is shown (both in the european as well as in the japanese ASA version, the japanese version shows the same, only it's 'slighty' easier to read in english so I made a screenshot of it).
So now what?!
So now what?!
Brown case was superseded by the black case in 2nd week September 1997. Remark merely shows differences and that MD628056 supersedes the old part number for 6A12, 13.
Dare say it'll be a safe bet to use the newer ISC.
Dare say it'll be a safe bet to use the newer ISC.
Could make buying a replacement with any certainty interesting if not from mitsu, will try cleaning mine in the first instance and do the TB seals etc whilst I'm at it.
Will cross reference the P/N with the above table and see what I currently have.
Will cross reference the P/N with the above table and see what I currently have.
G
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Correct, MD628056 is the number to be used for all models now.
The Japanese note in ASA also that says that ISC changed design at that time, and not to be concerned that the newer ISC looks physically different (not just in colour) because it still fits the pre Sept 1997 models just fine and it's the recommended part number now.
EDIT: Should have scrolled back and read Mark's post before going to the trouble of translating it
OK so haven't removed it yet (didn't need to, in order to check the model no.) and mine now checks out as the newer version / correct for the 6A13.
Dispels what I thought may have happened when my TBs were swapped at least.
Dispels what I thought may have happened when my TBs were swapped at least.
marksanne
Hesitantly Boosting
Good info guys, for sake of keeping info correct I'll update my elaborate post on CVR4 with the learned info.
Topic now all back to you Chris
Topic now all back to you Chris
when setting up the ISC you need to be carefull, that first initial movement is classed as the default position, if your manual adjustment screw is out of adjustment then the isc wont operate correctly to keep the idle steady, there is a setting on the mutII to force the isc to default position and then you set up the manual adjustment screw, after this the isc should be able to correctly manage the idle
smellychodus
Hesitantly Boosting
I have been having Idle and starting up issues for a while now!
I've replaced the Idle motor with a replacement Mitsubishi item twice, purchased a MAF off a wrecked Legnum that was running prior to accident and still no fix.
How can I check the TPS or other faults without evoscan? This is driving me insane, ive searched on ClubVr4 for a bit but people either said Idle Motor, MAF or evoscan, is that the only way?
Cheers
Edit: My problem is that the car only starts randomly, otherwise it will just crank. When it does start it will either
A.) Idle up to 1500 RPM, get warm, run fine for a small period (2 mins ish) and then start to idle all over the place
B.) Barely start as the car idle is all over the place
C.) Idle up to 1500RPM, get really sticky revs (rev car up to say 2500rpm, revs will stick and very slowly drop down) followed by the car revs getting to about 500rpm and nearly stalling
I've replaced the Idle motor with a replacement Mitsubishi item twice, purchased a MAF off a wrecked Legnum that was running prior to accident and still no fix.
How can I check the TPS or other faults without evoscan? This is driving me insane, ive searched on ClubVr4 for a bit but people either said Idle Motor, MAF or evoscan, is that the only way?
Cheers
Edit: My problem is that the car only starts randomly, otherwise it will just crank. When it does start it will either
A.) Idle up to 1500 RPM, get warm, run fine for a small period (2 mins ish) and then start to idle all over the place
B.) Barely start as the car idle is all over the place
C.) Idle up to 1500RPM, get really sticky revs (rev car up to say 2500rpm, revs will stick and very slowly drop down) followed by the car revs getting to about 500rpm and nearly stalling
Check my posts in this thread, specifically #8 & #10. http://ozvr4.com/forums/showthread.php?t=12285
Test TPS Sensor
Test TPS Sensor
smellychodus
Hesitantly Boosting
Cheers Joey,
I will get onto that tomorrow night, also just became a paid up member!
I will get onto that tomorrow night, also just became a paid up member!
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