Labour to change Man gearbox input shaft seal and bearing.

Ernz1981

Leaving Skid Marks
Location
NSW
First Name
Ernz
Drive
1997 Galant VR4
Hello,

Anyone know how much this would cost?

Might as well get it done whilst the gearbox is out for a clutch job along with the engine/transmission mounts.

My mechanic (currently on holiday) says he's gotta split the gearbox open and change the seal/bearing from the inside....

Thanks
 

Ernz1981

Leaving Skid Marks
Location
NSW
First Name
Ernz
Drive
1997 Galant VR4
ppl......sussed it out

Job takes an extra 1 hr (as the gearbox is out already to do the clutch).......if i supply the parts cost is $110.

got a second quote..sending out to a gearbox place $200 incl parts supply
 

lathiat

Leaving Skid Marks
Location
WA
First Name
Trent Lloyd
Drive
97 Legnum (Manual)
For some reason I imagined the input shaft bearing requires you to split the gearbox.

Either way these supposedly go so replacing it is highly recommended to save on doubling the clutch labour.
 

Jonson

1 AYC Bar
Location
SA
First Name
Jon
Drive
MY15 X MR
I don't see a reason why it would 'go' as long as the box is maintained and not abused (that's what she said)
 

Nitephyre

Flaccid Member
Lifetime Member
Location
ormeau@gc.qld.au
First Name
Matt :)
Drive
1963 Toyota Lite-Stout & 2007 Toyota Blade Master G
Mine's been rattly since I've owned it. Will get done when I need a new clutch.
 

Jonson

1 AYC Bar
Location
SA
First Name
Jon
Drive
MY15 X MR
Interesting. I know heavy clutches can have an affect on them, what clutch Matt? Also leaving your foot on the clutch pedal can wear them prematurely.
 

lathiat

Leaving Skid Marks
Location
WA
First Name
Trent Lloyd
Drive
97 Legnum (Manual)
Well reading on ClubVR-4 its happened quite a few time esp if you are a bit mean to your car.
 

Kenneth

1 AYC Bar
Location
New Zealand
First Name
Kenneth
Drive
1999 Galant VR-4
Input shaft bearing failure is the pretty well the only well known gearbox failure point (I don't count the shifter bracket, though that is the other bit that seems to fail).
For the cost and time to replace, you might as well do it. I have noticed that non-OE bearings tend to be sealed and don't rattle, so it might pay to get one of those. Just make sure it is at least as good as the OE one.
 

TME_Steve

3 AYC Bars
Lifetime Member
Location
NSW
First Name
Steve
Drive
2010 nt did pajero tow car / 2000 6spd gc8 wrx tarmac rally car / 2000 Manual Subaru Outback 2.5 just a car
I see a heap of them that rattle (including mine) worth doing at that price, I thought it would have been a much bigger job....
 

Nitephyre

Flaccid Member
Lifetime Member
Location
ormeau@gc.qld.au
First Name
Matt :)
Drive
1963 Toyota Lite-Stout & 2007 Toyota Blade Master G
Jon, I'm on the stock clutch... as it's not broken yet I don't see the need to upgrade :D
 
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