Looks like I'll be busy tomorrow.. :)

Discussion in 'Engine, Transmission and Drivetrain' started by naughtika, Jan 6, 2008.

  1. naughtika

    naughtika OzVR4 Stalker Moderator Trader

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    '96 Galant VR4, '17 MB A180, '25 Macan GTS
    Ryco Oil Filter Z56b - $10.02
    Photo0245.jpg

    Tectaloy Radiator Water Coolant - $5.50
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    Valvoline Brake Fluid D.O.T. 4 - 2.5 Liters - $24.11
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    NGK Iridium Spark Plugs (BKR6EIX) $12.15 ea
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    Fuchs Titan Super GTO (Full Synth 10w30) - $36.89
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    all of them above only cost me $149.45

    I'll do the above service today (Sunday) and hopefully I can install the Coilovers too.. I'm pretty sure my dad will shake his head again :D for doing works on my car that are "unnecessary" :D:cool::rolleyes:

    Items below are still on order and/or awaiting arrival..

    Timing Belt, Water Pump Assembly, T.B. Tensioner Bearing & Idler Pulley, Timing Belt Tensioner, AC-PS Belt, Alt Belt, 4x Cam Oil Seals, 2x Crankshaft Oil Seals(Rear & Front Main Oil Seals), 6x Sparkplug Oil Seals, Brass Plugs (to seal water holes I think there were 5), Exedy Clutch (Heavy Duty Cushioned Button)..

    I know i have to get my flywheel machined, once all of the above mentioned parts arrive.. I won't have a car for about 2-3 weeks.. :( as my dad will do most of the work and most probably he'll take his time, so he doesn't miss anything.. anything I missed out on?

    Brad, Gly, Kristian.. any suggestions and/or advices?
     
  2. 2000VR-4

    2000VR-4 Leaving Skid Marks

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    Hey Chris, any reason you are doing the welsh plugs and crank seals?
     
  3. bradc

    bradc 1 AYC Bar

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    Well I guess that if he is doing all of the work and is experienced in that sort of thing then there is nothing to really worry about. There is a lot of work in that lot, I would guess that because he won't know the car well there will be 15 hours in there!
     
  4. Guest

    Guest Unregistered

    get a engine crane for when you take the box out,
    as it will only be supported by one engine mount if you leave it in,

    lots or zip lock bags and lables, for all the bolts, makes it so much easier coming to a assembly time,

    or if your doing that all in one go,
    take the motor and box out completly, it will make things much easier.
     
  5. naughtika

    naughtika OzVR4 Stalker Moderator Trader

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    me and my dad's doing all the major stuff in all 1 go.. we'll be dropping the motor and gearbox together to make things alot easier, rather than bending over all the time on the engine bay.. my dad's had over 20 years of experience as a mechanic, he knows his ways around cars even if he's never touched them before.. I don't remember any car that he couldn't fix.. also he's got all the tools, cranes and stuff.. and he's also made his own tools..

    im off to my folk's place.. :D
     
  6. Subaru ETA

    Subaru ETA Leaving Skid Marks

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    yeah why you doing the frost plugs? just because you got the engine out?
     
  7. naughtika

    naughtika OzVR4 Stalker Moderator Trader

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    engine won't come out til probably next month, im doing the plugs cause i need to.. engine kinda hesitates at around 4500rpm upwards.. i got rid of the boost cut issue i was getting earlier.. but since i've added the afc, the after about 1k run.. that's when the hesitation started happening.. besides car's done 94k already..
     
  8. naughtika

    naughtika OzVR4 Stalker Moderator Trader

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    just got home.. I worked on the car for about 7 hours.. it would've taken me alot less time but it rained like hell, and there was thunder rumbling.. got me scared :D

    anyway.. update about the work that i did today..

    I only managed to change the oil, oil filter, air filter and THE PLUGS.. those rear banks were a bit tricky to work on..

    now my acceleration's ALOT better, I can feel the car lifting itself while accelerating all the way to 7000rpm.. I don't get any rev hesitations anywhere above 4500rpm..

    I know my Timing Belt's due for replacement so I've turned down the boost to the factory setting.. I might actually take the MBC off tomorrow for the time being.. to lighten up the stress I'm providing to the engine and Timing Belt.. I'm kinda imagining it snapping on me and getting bent valves and far worse rods sticking itself outside the block..

    i'll post up pics soon.. just editing and adding colors to it.. so I can write up a guide..
     
  9. naughtika

    naughtika OzVR4 Stalker Moderator Trader

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    Gly, Brad.. just a question with the spark plug gap.. why are yours gapped at .8mm? on mine the guide says to gap it at 1.05mm

    don't worry I've set mine to .8mm
     
  10. Guest

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    mine are at 0.7
     
  11. Guest

    Guest Unregistered

    I see that your using iridiums are they ALOT better than the platinums or are they just your preference??
     
  12. bradc

    bradc 1 AYC Bar

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    most people have had their best performance around 0.8mm. At least you've stopped your missing now :)

    As for platinums vs iridiums, they are both very good, I don't think there is much difference between them.
     
  13. Kristian

    Kristian Leaving Skid Marks

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    The only other thing I'd suggest would be new ATF in the AYC reservoir. Sounds like you had your work cut out for you as it was though lol

    Another handy hit I learnt from a panel beater was to get piece of cardboard, push all the bolts and screws through it and write on there where they came from. Sounds simple but it has been a life saver on many occasions.
     
  14. Guest

    Guest Unregistered


    for a dead stock car, 1.05 is probably fine, but when you increase the boost, the spark can be 'blown out' so you reduce the gap so the spark doesnt have to jump as far, however you also weaken the spark as the gap gets smaller.

    ideally you want the largest gap, and as brad said, most people use 0.8, myself included.
     
  15. naughtika

    naughtika OzVR4 Stalker Moderator Trader

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    as far as I remember there were...

    16x 12mm bolts (2x from the turbo outlets, 2x for the 'Y' pipe, 7x for the plenum, 4x for the plenum support, short ones and 1 long bolt - from the throttle body as I've added 1 ground wire into it)

    18x 10mm bolts (mostly from the plastic engine cover, wire guides, ignition coil mounts, 2x throttle cable guide)

    2x 14mm bolts (from strut tower bar)

    2x hose clamps that I had to remove (1x after the 'Y' Pipe and took out 1 of the 2" clamps from the rear turbo)

    2x water hoses which are under the throttle body

    3x vacuum hose on the side of the plenum (2x facing the firewall 1x hidden somewhere)

    does that mean I remember all of them :D
     
  16. Guest

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    i've got about 2-3 times that many bolts from removing my gearbox. :p
     
  17. trounced

    trounced Leaving Skid Marks

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    im still not sure which filter to use, is z142a better ? why did you use z56b ?
     
  18. Guest

    Guest Unregistered

    i have the z142a and it seems fine..
     
  19. VR4Rocket

    VR4Rocket Leaving Skid Marks

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    hmmmm sounds like when I want my timing belt done i can throw cash your way Christian!!
     
  20. naughtika

    naughtika OzVR4 Stalker Moderator Trader

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    I've used z142a twice and z56b twice as well.. I found z56b works better on our car.. I haven't heard a slight "tick" when I first start the car in the morning"

    I haven't done my belts.. my dad will be the one who'll do it.. I'll ask him if he's interested..
     

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