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Hi guys seeing as i am selling the super i am going to get rid of all my bits that i have bought to do my big turbo upgrade. I was going to use a Garrett gt3076R but running it in a way that no one else has ever tried or dared! If anyone has an adventurous spirit listen in ....Picture this, first remove ALL airboxes ,piping ,intercooler then build a custom foam insulated (3 " thick walls) airbox that's fed by three air rams that gather positive air pressure from the front spoiler, under the front of the bonnet ( original air intake spot) and from a custom air scoop on the bonnet. This airbox takes up the area from the throttle body to the strut tower to just behind the thermo fans to right up to the engine, from ontop of the gearbox to sealed with the bonnet.
Have i lost anyone yet?? Bear with me.
Mounted into this airbox is a custom made intercooler with a 300x400 core and custom end tanks. This intercooler sits right on the top part of this box and the box seals the cooler inside it up to the bonnet. One end tank has its output running straight up to the throttle body via a 70 mm silicon hose and the other input points out of the box to where the battery used to be, which is now in the boot. The turbo sits under where the battery used to be with its compressor input facing to the side behind the bumper and its compressor outlet running thru the floor to 2x 45 degree bends into the intake of the cooler.
Now you need to make a custom bonnet with specifically designed rear facing vents to create as much suction as possible. It also needs the air scoop near the battery for the beforementioned air intake. Now for the manifolds, you need to get hold of a second "front" exhaust manifold to put on the rear bank to face down. Get flange plates made for your factory exhaust manifolds (the part where the three go into one). But make the internal diameter of these flanges 42mm. Now bolt them to your manifolds and get one of those dremel grinding things ( the name escapes me right now) and hone out your factory manifolds to match them to the new 42mm flanges. Make up ,using steam pipe with an internal diameter of 42mm, a manifold running from the rear bank under the engine leaving enough room for a 3" pipe to come past it and staying to the driver's side of the engine brace that runs under the engine bay front to rear. The engine brace needs to be modified to accommodate the two steam pipes (front and rear manifolds) and a 3" dump pipe. You do this by cutting out the bulge right behind the tow hock and giving it back strength by putting a solid steel beam about 62mm x 20mm x 250mm . Weld this in and close the beam with plate of steel. neaten this up to look factory and paint.
This has now given you enough clearance to run all three pipes under the beam and still remain higher off the ground than the rest of the beam. Finish your manifolds all the way to the turbo but merge the two just before they go into the turbo. you just have to watch your oil filter and remember to leave room for your main air ram that runs from your bumper to the airbox. Run your three inch dump pipe from your turbo under the beam with the manifolds then thru to the back next to your rear manifold. Heat wrap or HPC coat all these pipes to keep as much heat inside the pipes. It is best to replace the passenger side thermo with a slimmer one to give you more room.
The turbo should have a turbo beanie to protect it fram direct water splashes ( probably also wise to put in some deflector panels to block water from road.) . You will need an oil scavenge pump to retrieve the oil from the turbo back to the engine because it will sit too low. The other vent in the bonnet is to let general heat out of the engine bay while the other is air sealed against the intercooler. I have tested that there is still negative air pressure as far back the bonnet as 15cm in front of the washers. And I would also install a thermo fan inside the airbox joined under the cooler to draw air when the car is still. Then you need a new ecu injectors external wastegate etc.
There you go...mad I know..
Cons: hard to pull off, largely unexplored methods
Pros: unique, very little lag, great throttle response, you dont need to muck around with changing your throttle body or intake plenum, reduces intake piping to about 40cm plus cooler rather than 3-4 m plus cooler.
If anyone has got the bravery to attempt this i have the airbox made( stupendous amount of hours in this), most of the rear manifold tacked up, the manifold flange plates, the second front factory manifold, the Haltech e11 v2 with 3 bar map sensor temp sensors loom laptop cable etc, oil scavenge pump, 60mm wastegate, 255l fuel pump, custom made intercooler by PWR intercoolers , the custom modified engine support beam and the mould for the bonnet (now you know why i made the bonnet the way I did he he )
Have i lost anyone yet?? Bear with me.
Mounted into this airbox is a custom made intercooler with a 300x400 core and custom end tanks. This intercooler sits right on the top part of this box and the box seals the cooler inside it up to the bonnet. One end tank has its output running straight up to the throttle body via a 70 mm silicon hose and the other input points out of the box to where the battery used to be, which is now in the boot. The turbo sits under where the battery used to be with its compressor input facing to the side behind the bumper and its compressor outlet running thru the floor to 2x 45 degree bends into the intake of the cooler.
Now you need to make a custom bonnet with specifically designed rear facing vents to create as much suction as possible. It also needs the air scoop near the battery for the beforementioned air intake. Now for the manifolds, you need to get hold of a second "front" exhaust manifold to put on the rear bank to face down. Get flange plates made for your factory exhaust manifolds (the part where the three go into one). But make the internal diameter of these flanges 42mm. Now bolt them to your manifolds and get one of those dremel grinding things ( the name escapes me right now) and hone out your factory manifolds to match them to the new 42mm flanges. Make up ,using steam pipe with an internal diameter of 42mm, a manifold running from the rear bank under the engine leaving enough room for a 3" pipe to come past it and staying to the driver's side of the engine brace that runs under the engine bay front to rear. The engine brace needs to be modified to accommodate the two steam pipes (front and rear manifolds) and a 3" dump pipe. You do this by cutting out the bulge right behind the tow hock and giving it back strength by putting a solid steel beam about 62mm x 20mm x 250mm . Weld this in and close the beam with plate of steel. neaten this up to look factory and paint.
This has now given you enough clearance to run all three pipes under the beam and still remain higher off the ground than the rest of the beam. Finish your manifolds all the way to the turbo but merge the two just before they go into the turbo. you just have to watch your oil filter and remember to leave room for your main air ram that runs from your bumper to the airbox. Run your three inch dump pipe from your turbo under the beam with the manifolds then thru to the back next to your rear manifold. Heat wrap or HPC coat all these pipes to keep as much heat inside the pipes. It is best to replace the passenger side thermo with a slimmer one to give you more room.
The turbo should have a turbo beanie to protect it fram direct water splashes ( probably also wise to put in some deflector panels to block water from road.) . You will need an oil scavenge pump to retrieve the oil from the turbo back to the engine because it will sit too low. The other vent in the bonnet is to let general heat out of the engine bay while the other is air sealed against the intercooler. I have tested that there is still negative air pressure as far back the bonnet as 15cm in front of the washers. And I would also install a thermo fan inside the airbox joined under the cooler to draw air when the car is still. Then you need a new ecu injectors external wastegate etc.
There you go...mad I know..
Cons: hard to pull off, largely unexplored methods
Pros: unique, very little lag, great throttle response, you dont need to muck around with changing your throttle body or intake plenum, reduces intake piping to about 40cm plus cooler rather than 3-4 m plus cooler.
If anyone has got the bravery to attempt this i have the airbox made( stupendous amount of hours in this), most of the rear manifold tacked up, the manifold flange plates, the second front factory manifold, the Haltech e11 v2 with 3 bar map sensor temp sensors loom laptop cable etc, oil scavenge pump, 60mm wastegate, 255l fuel pump, custom made intercooler by PWR intercoolers , the custom modified engine support beam and the mould for the bonnet (now you know why i made the bonnet the way I did he he )
