Need a how to on removing/fitting turbos.

Kenneth

1 AYC Bar
Location
New Zealand
First Name
Kenneth
Drive
1999 Galant VR-4
I changed my rear turbo by removing the CHRA from the turbine housing. I did this with the intake manifold on, though it would have been much easier if it was off. Strut tower brace was removed.

Was a fairly easy job that way, only "difficult" bit was removing all the oil and coolant lines to the CHRA.

Of course that is of no use if you need/want to do more than just put another OEM turbo on
 

Jimmy_EC5W

Leaving Skid Marks
Location
Victoria
First Name
James
Drive
1998 Pearl White Legnum, Atlas Grey VN SS
Thanks guys.

I was hoping to save myself $450 but by the sounds of it, that might be worth it.

$450 on top of a rebuild though. Any recommendations in Victoria? I usually take mine to chasers as I'm a good customer there.
 

naughtika

OzVR4 Stalker
Location
Brisbane, QLD
First Name
Christian
Drive
'96 Galant VR4, '17 MB A180, '25 Macan GTS
fellas, do you guys have any pics of the oil lines for the front and rear turbo? also the water lines too

for some reason i dont think i have images/jpg of these..
 

pixelplay

Leaving Skid Marks
Location
QLD, Australia
First Name
Bruce
Drive
Mitsubishi Legnum VR4, Subaru B4 Legacy RS30
The most simple way to remove the rear turbo is to remove the plenum and then undo the CHRA band as Kenneth suggested. This is by far the most fast way and least effort.

If the engine is is the car the other way of doing it is to take off the transfer case as with it one you simply will not have enough access to the bolts that need undoing. The most difficult things to remove are the heat shields (They are a pain in the ass and time consuming to remove) and the exhaust/Turbo bolts as they are just about always frozen on. Spay them with a nut release spray at least a day before removing them. If you don't do this you will just about always snap one off. The transfer case can be a bit of a dog to remove as the shafts must both be removed before it can be taken off and two of the bolts are not easy to get to.

I have removed my rear turbo both ways and I would just remove the engine if I was unable to get it off by undoing the CHRA band as removing the engine I think would be faster than trying to do it the other way I just described.
 
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