Newbie needs AYC help

DaBo$$

Hesitantly Boosting
Location
USA
First Name
Matt
Drive
Eighth Gen Galant VR4
Hey all first time vr4 owner here. I have a 97 auto version. I am learning about the car as we go, so bare with me please.
My issue with the AYC is once the car is moving the 3 bars light up and I hear clunking/grinding noise from the rear diff of the car. I know it's the ayc cause I have disabled the pump, by removing the fuse in the engine and the noise stops.

My question is what causes the ayc 3bar light on the dash to be activated by just normal driving?

Is my AYC finished and I might as well leave as if in open diff mode?

Can it be fixed?

Remember I live in the Bahamas so sourcing parts is a major issue and finding a shop to check the car out and do the work wont happen. I will be doing or trying to do what is neccessary to fix u if it can be.
 

Jakevr4

Leaving Skid Marks
Location
Queensland
First Name
Jake
Drive
99 Galant vr4 type s (auto),10 Grand Cherokee Overland(auto),91 Rodeo (350 chev th350auto).
Are both of your rear tyres the same brand/ size, have a rotational speed difference in the back wheels would cause it to freak out in the way you have described.
It could also be a faulty wheel speed sensor that is reading out of spec, but not enough to throw the abs/engine light.
 

DaBo$$

Hesitantly Boosting
Location
USA
First Name
Matt
Drive
Eighth Gen Galant VR4
All tires are brand new, same size and same tire pressure.
I checked codes previously and got a few. I will re-check and write them down but the one that stood out was right rear wheel sensor and that sensor is no good. When I got the car it was hanging and basically destroyed.
Can that be the cause the ayc bars lighting up even though I am just barely accelerating in a straight line?
 

pretzil

2 AYC Bars
Location
Qld
First Name
Rick
Drive
Legnum VR4
The sensor was basically destroyed???

Yes, absolutely. The car thinks one wheel isnt moving so the diff cranks all the ayc to one side.
 

DaBo$$

Hesitantly Boosting
Location
USA
First Name
Matt
Drive
Eighth Gen Galant VR4
The sensor was basically destroyed???

Yes, absolutely. The car thinks one wheel isnt moving so the diff cranks all the ayc to one side.
Yes. The sensor was hanging and mangled. Is there a part number or replacement sensor I can use for the right rear wheel speed sensor?

Also when I put the fuse back in for the ayc the rear diff is loud and noisy. Sounds like metal grinding on metal. Is that a normal sound it would make while cruising the ATC was active?
 

DaBo$$

Hesitantly Boosting
Location
USA
First Name
Matt
Drive
Eighth Gen Galant VR4
Yes. The sensor was hanging and mangled. Is there a part number or replacement sensor I can use for the right rear wheel speed sensor?

Also when I put the fuse back in for the ayc the rear diff is loud and noisy. Sounds like metal grinding on metal. Is that a normal sound it would make while cruising the ATC was active?


Bummer!!! So the noise could mean the ayc is stuffed? I was thinking that it would make some noise like a locked diff seeing as it would be fully active and sending all the pressure to whatever side it supposed to.

I get all 3 bars active from the car moves, only reason it goes off is because I have the pump fuse removed and the system shuts down once it realizes the pump isn't powering up.

If the ayc is stuffed what options do I have?

Remember I am I the Bahamas so if I am not sourcing parts from out the forum my option only other options is something American made.
Would wheel speed sensors from a 3000gt work?
 

zacnz

Hesitantly Boosting
Location
New Zealand
First Name
zac
Drive
Current 2001 fl vr4

(Previous) 1996 pfl legnum vr4

(Previous) 1999 fl legnum st
I had a similar issue when I got a flat in the rear. After fixing I had the same grinding scary noise coming from the diff with the ayc bars freaking out (possibly all red cant quite remember). I did find a fix in here and I'll see if I can link it.

From memory it was to disconnect the battery and reset but make sure when you do this the steering wheel and front wheels are all pointing straight. From the sounds of it you'll still need to replace your speed sensor but hope this also helps.
 

pretzil

2 AYC Bars
Location
Qld
First Name
Rick
Drive
Legnum VR4
If there's noise or issue with the fuse pulled. I'd just drive it like that if your country makes it really difficult to get parts
 

DaBo$$

Hesitantly Boosting
Location
USA
First Name
Matt
Drive
Eighth Gen Galant VR4
If there's noise or issue with the fuse pulled. I'd just drive it like that if your country makes it really difficult to get parts

No now that the fuse is pulled no noise and it drives fine. Just that I noticed before the red ayc light comes on, to show the pump has no power cause the fuse is pulled, I noticed that the 3 green ayc bars light up with just normal driving. Which forum members said can be cause my right rear wheel sensor is broken.

It isn't hard to get parts in just that were I live parts aren't readily available, so I would have to order and probably install myself.

Would also like to know what's involved with installing just a regular lsd and is it a direct replacement of the whole pumpkin or would I have to open the diff housing and exchange it with an lsd one? Also what lsd do I use?
 

Baba Galant

1 AYC Bar
Lifetime Member
Location
Melbourne
First Name
John
Drive
Galant VR4 twin turbo 1997
Affordable replacement ABS sensors are MR527312 ABS sensor for Lancer.
My rear LHS sensor had failed and was causing TCL and AYC issues, shopped around and wouldn't pay the ridiculous price most were asking.
As my rear LHS was facing down I bought the Lancer rear RHS, easily installed, perfect fit and no errors.
$30 AUD. Don't try plugging up, just cut and join it to your existing sensor cable.
 

DaBo$$

Hesitantly Boosting
Location
USA
First Name
Matt
Drive
Eighth Gen Galant VR4
Affordable replacement ABS sensors are MR527312 ABS sensor for Lancer.
My rear LHS sensor had failed and was causing TCL and AYC issues, shopped around and wouldn't pay the ridiculous price most were asking.
As my rear LHS was facing down I bought the Lancer rear RHS, easily installed, perfect fit and no errors.
$30 AUD. Don't try plugging up, just cut and join it to your existing sensor cable.


Is it for a particular year lancer? My galant is a 97 vr4.
Thanks will look up and try.
 

DaBo$$

Hesitantly Boosting
Location
USA
First Name
Matt
Drive
Eighth Gen Galant VR4
My is a 97 also, works fine.

Ok. Wow!!!!! That's great news. So as I am looking for the rear right hand sensor do I purchase the opposite or the same one as you? Looking at the part online it looks plastic and our sensor is metal, is that just a generic picture or is the sensor metal?
 

Baba Galant

1 AYC Bar
Lifetime Member
Location
Melbourne
First Name
John
Drive
Galant VR4 twin turbo 1997
The sensor mount is metal and the body is now plastic mould. This is way better as it stop it from rusting or fusing within the hub.
For our rear sensors we need the cable facing down.
I just went with the back view, mounting on the right, cable pointing down.
As I couldn't get to the plug I had no concern for length etc so whatever had the right mounting.

I did end up with another 1 or 2, these had a thick plastic mount and body, with a metal Insert through the mounting hole.
 

DaBo$$

Hesitantly Boosting
Location
USA
First Name
Matt
Drive
Eighth Gen Galant VR4
The sensor mount is metal and the body is now plastic mould. This is way better as it stop it from rusting or fusing within the hub.
For our rear sensors we need the cable facing down.
I just went with the back view, mounting on the right, cable pointing down.
As I couldn't get to the plug I had no concern for length etc so whatever had the right mounting.

I did end up with another 1 or 2, these had a thick plastic mount and body, with a metal Insert through the mounting hole.

Soooooooo the front right sensor can be used for the right rear sensor? I just want to know what sensor to get to replace my right rear sensor.
 
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