North America Chat

BCX

Administrator
Moderator
Premium Member
Location
SA
First Name
Bill
Drive
2000 Galant Type-V
1997 MK Triton GLS [6G74 conversion]
2019 i30 N-Line
Flex fuel is available for the standard ecu ;)
 

blinkerfluid

Leaving Skid Marks
Premium Member
Location
US
First Name
Abe
Drive
96 Legnum VR4
Flex fuel is available for the standard ecu ;)

Found a couple threads threads about it. Being 10+yrs behind the curve from is great, until it's not. Many research dives feel like I'm playing Myst and just stumbling my way through old partial clues and trying to fill the gaps of posts from the 2010s, dead links, deleted items, empty drop boxes, etc. The amount of work all you folks did, present company most certainly included, has caused a massive learning curve to catch up on. Not to mention I learn best by having someone walk me through the basics as I do the clicking, rather than simply reading up on a subject. Our previous back and forth where you simply said "this does this, that does that" got me further than literally 12 days of reading and YouTube. I'm not dumb, just old-school. :LOL:

I live in a region with a TON of ethanol pumps, but here E85 means "up to 85%" and is very much in need of maps that accurately scale based on actual content. Couple that with finding myself near some janky gas stations that I might not trust their E85 content, and just pump in the normal up-to-e10 93 Octane (~96.5RON). The Link ECU ticked a lot of the boxes for me, and I was happy to see the plug-n-play aspect of the Adaptive kit. Gave me a lot of space to grow, but still keep it quite simple in the early stages. The 'modern' ECU is a little more user friendly I guess. Ultimate power goals are fairly modest compared to some, I'm looking to land at about the 300-350whp mark, yet be daily drivable, quick spooling, and a useable powerband. I played the HP game when I was young, and I don't really want to be breaking things all the time or have a massive single turbo swap that looks AMAZING on the dynoplot, but is miserable to drive around. If I want to drive like my hair is on fire, I'll take my wife's Stage 3 Golf R for a spin. :sneaky:

With all that rambling above, and just to be clear, my current goal would be to just get my car up to about the .8bar mark and reliable as stock, like I had my Legnum in Japan off my vintage Profec-B. Once I can get there I'll just daily the car for this season while I amass the parts to do something a bit deeper dive over the winter, or next year, or when ever I get the time. I took a virgin map you provided and put it on my car so I could run the 7202F ECU without the TCU light blinking at me, then started playing around with boost offset and BDEL and WGDC, I was able to make changes to get to .6bar, but things were a bit unsteady once there. This was in my hour before my kids got home from school, so I made the edits, flashed, drove, took notes, flashed back to stock, and welcomed the kids home. This is about all the time I have to work on the car these days, especially since my wife's Mini is undergoing a 1380cc build/swap and her motor is currently on the stand and I need to focus on that.

Anyway, I am deeply appreciative of the time you take to hold the US 'newbie' hands through the process you all went through over a decade ago. Thankfully there's only a handful of us to deal with! :ROFLMAO:
 

blinkerfluid

Leaving Skid Marks
Premium Member
Location
US
First Name
Abe
Drive
96 Legnum VR4
Was annoyed that there were no simple, aka universal, dual 60mm gauge pods for Defi and the like.

So I designed my own to use the metal base that Defi includes with their gauges. Printing in PLA for proof of concept/prototyping. Will print in ASA once the design is finalized.
IMG_4457.jpeg
 

jdmftwyo

Leaving Skid Marks
Premium Member
Location
United states Detroit
First Name
Joe
Drive
97 Mirage to Evo 4 conversion
97 Legnum VR4
Was annoyed that there were no simple, aka universal, dual 60mm gauge pods for Defi and the like.

So I designed my own to use the metal base that Defi includes with their gauges. Printing in PLA for proof of concept/prototyping. Will print in ASA once the design is finalized.
I do the same but once im satisfied with the part i send it off to have it SLS printed in Nylon. I used xometry to do this and did the media tumble option it comes out looking like oem plastic. Used this for my Evo clock mod. I plan to 3d scan the legnum clock interface and print a new version to accept the UTcomp pro screen.

286575203_172985465176980_912504686460222335_n.jpg
286737149_172985441843649_7196031705723165489_n.jpg
 

blinkerfluid

Leaving Skid Marks
Premium Member
Location
US
First Name
Abe
Drive
96 Legnum VR4
I do the same but once im satisfied with the part i send it off to have it SLS printed in Nylon. I used xometry to do this and did the media tumble option it comes out looking like oem plastic. Used this for my Evo clock mod. I plan to 3d scan the legnum clock interface and print a new version to accept the UTcomp pro screen.


Considering if I’m going to print in ABS or ASA, or just sending my .stl to a print farm and have them fancy it up for me.

My original thought was to replace the clock with two 60mm gauges. The ones I’ve seen so far are a bit big and gangly. Want as low profile as I can get. Second thought was a staggered dual gage that followed the contour between the gauge cluster and a-pillar. sadly, no 3d scanner to get the contours right.

I want to see what the folks that make my Link adapter come up with for a CAN gauge that fills the clock hole, then run my period correct Defi BF gauges…. Because big dork.
 

jdmftwyo

Leaving Skid Marks
Premium Member
Location
United states Detroit
First Name
Joe
Drive
97 Mirage to Evo 4 conversion
97 Legnum VR4
Considering if I’m going to print in ABS or ASA, or just sending my .stl to a print farm and have them fancy it up for me.

My original thought was to replace the clock with two 60mm gauges. The ones I’ve seen so far are a bit big and gangly. Want as low profile as I can get. Second thought was a staggered dual gage that followed the contour between the gauge cluster and a-pillar. sadly, no 3d scanner to get the contours right.

I want to see what the folks that make my Link adapter come up with for a CAN gauge that fills the clock hole, then run my period correct Defi BF gauges…. Because big dork.
Im all for a period correct build. I love the idea of the link also. i think ill go down that same route when the time comes. I dont want the car to be a monster with power but id like to optimize it the best i can.
 

blinkerfluid

Leaving Skid Marks
Premium Member
Location
US
First Name
Abe
Drive
96 Legnum VR4
Im all for a period correct build. I love the idea of the link also. i think ill go down that same route when the time comes. I dont want the car to be a monster with power but id like to optimize it the best i can.

Exactly. 350whp’ish is about the max goal I have. I’d love a CAN bus gauge/readout to fit in the clock space, but still have my old school analog gauges for boost and trans temp on the dash. To keep the taper and back looking nice I am printing face down… which is taking forever because of supports inside the pod.

IMG_4471.jpeg
 

6A13TT TYPE S

3 AYC Bars
Lifetime Member
Location
New Zealand
First Name
Adam
Drive
1999 Legnum VR4 Type S
I do the same but once im satisfied with the part i send it off to have it SLS printed in Nylon. I used xometry to do this and did the media tumble option it comes out looking like oem plastic. Used this for my Evo clock mod. I plan to 3d scan the legnum clock interface and print a new version to accept the UTcomp pro screen.

I'm in for a UTcomp bolt in solution for the clock if you willing to share the .STEP
 

jdmftwyo

Leaving Skid Marks
Premium Member
Location
United states Detroit
First Name
Joe
Drive
97 Mirage to Evo 4 conversion
97 Legnum VR4
I'm in for a UTcomp bolt in solution for the clock if you willing to share the .STEP
I more then likely won't be sharing the file as I'll have it produced like I did my other solution (if people are interested that is). I'd sell the whole part. 3d scanners and real cad software isn't cheap lol
 

6A13TT TYPE S

3 AYC Bars
Lifetime Member
Location
New Zealand
First Name
Adam
Drive
1999 Legnum VR4 Type S
I more then likely won't be sharing the file as I'll have it produced like I did my other solution (if people are interested that is). I'd sell the whole part. 3d scanners and real cad software isn't cheap lol
Haha fair call. I don't expect it for free. More of a pay for the file and I'd print it here (considerably more economical than shipping to NZ from the US)
I do have acess to a very high end scanner and both F360 and solidworks. Not that fusion isnt free for hobbyists, and more than capable of working with meshes in the free version to make something like this

Figured id save myself a few hours of modeling it, but if the price is right and the shipping isn't stupid I'd buy one off you.
 

blinkerfluid

Leaving Skid Marks
Premium Member
Location
US
First Name
Abe
Drive
96 Legnum VR4
Haha fair call. I don't expect it for free. More of a pay for the file and I'd print it here (considerably more economical than shipping to NZ from the US)
I do have acess to a very high end scanner and both F360 and solidworks. Not that fusion isnt free for hobbyists, and more than capable of working with meshes in the free version to make something like this

Figured id save myself a few hours of modeling it, but if the price is right and the shipping isn't stupid I'd buy one off you.


Shipping isn’t as bad as many assume, but lots of places love to price gouge making it seem horrible. ($700usd shipping for a FMIC 🤣)

If there is anything you all need sourced from this side, please don’t hesitate to ask.
 

jdmftwyo

Leaving Skid Marks
Premium Member
Location
United states Detroit
First Name
Joe
Drive
97 Mirage to Evo 4 conversion
97 Legnum VR4
Haha fair call. I don't expect it for free. More of a pay for the file and I'd print it here (considerably more economical than shipping to NZ from the US)
I do have acess to a very high end scanner and both F360 and solidworks. Not that fusion isnt free for hobbyists, and more than capable of working with meshes in the free version to make something like this

Figured id save myself a few hours of modeling it, but if the price is right and the shipping isn't stupid I'd buy one off you.
Yea shipping hasn't been bad the unit above I shipped all over the world to evo owners i think the most expensive was Indonesia and it was only 11$ USD
 

blinkerfluid

Leaving Skid Marks
Premium Member
Location
US
First Name
Abe
Drive
96 Legnum VR4
Annual MN Mitsubishi cookout is Sunday August 24 , 11am-4pm, Anoka MN.

 
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