Airflow and Piping

Tom

Leaving Skid Marks
Location
NSW
First Name
Tom
Drive
New: 2006 BMW 335i M-Sport | Old: 2000 Galant VR4, MY04 STI WRX, 2009 Audi A4 2.7tdi
Hey guys, I'm curious about getting more of that induction and spool noise, aswell as increasing the overall airflow and performance..

But wouldn't have a clue where to even start researching and sourcing things..

I'd take my car out to Meek Automotive to get them to work on it.. I called them up, and one of the blokes suggested I look at getting new airfilter, engine pipe and 'suction pipe'.. (The guy said these kits for Evo9 go for $650, so I'm guessing pricing would be similar for us)

Saying with the VR4's that'd be all I'd really need to do to get a nice amount of gain, plus the beloved sound, etc etc..

As well as getting an exhaust system and stuff..

He recommended I don't just go get one mocked up, but to source proper things from reputable companies.. Obviously, and understandably I'd prefer that..


Anyone able to help me out in guiding me the right way about doing this? This is my first turbo, first import, and I'm pretty noob when it comes to this kind of stuff!
 

Madhav

Leaving Skid Marks
Location
WA
First Name
Madhav
Drive
96 S2 RZ Supra with 500whp
Go a full exhaust and down pipe, then you'll hear more spooling.
 

Mortz

Leaving Skid Marks
Location
Tweed Coast, NSW
First Name
Luke M
Drive
1997 Legnum VR4
I think a few of a the fellas have done CAI mods with a it of effort and good gains but I am about as clueless as you mate and one of the bolt on kits is appealing, if a little pricey. Interesting to see what the guys who have done their own intake mods have to say.
 

Mac Dog

Leaving Skid Marks
Location
South Australia
First Name
Macca
Drive
Red 1997 Legnum
I'm pretty sure I remember reading somewhere that POD filters dont work on VR4's (which still puzzles me...). My suggestion would be to change the panel filter in your airbox to something more high-flow. Its a much cheaper alternative but you need to be very careful about what you use. And as mentioned before a better exhaust system and increased boost will bring in more induction sound.

But my personal opinion, PERFORMANCE over SOUNDS.
 
G

Guest

Unregistered
When i had my magna i put a pod in it, made the car run VERY rough and stall. K & N made a special pod in a different shape specifically for that reason. if a pod is desired it may well be the best option?
 

Kenneth

1 AYC Bar
Location
New Zealand
First Name
Kenneth
Drive
1999 Galant VR-4
I would recommend you get a flexible tube and pipe it into a hole cut into the bottom of the intake snorkel. Also get a Ralliart panel filter.

Standard intake (to the turbos) is good for over 180KW at the wheels (knocking on the door of 325HP at the flywheel) provided you have mods such as intercooler and exhaust (includes down pipes)

For what it is worth, I don't think messing with the intake is worth bothering with until you are looking at getting up past 190kw and then I would be looking at the front turbo intake pipe before touching the airbox setup.
 
G

Guest

Unregistered
up the boost! I took my pod filter off it with the sensor our cars use
 
G

Guest

Unregistered
i get heaps of intake noise with all harb pipes and having the boost higher. the hard pipes also help with responsiveness. i love the sound your talking about as well.
 

ygoslo

1 AYC Bar
Location
Victoria
First Name
Tim
Drive
91 Silvia, 97 Galant
I was looking at the intake pipes and thinking about remaking them in stainless. That's how you'd get your noise. I was looking at it because the corrugated design couldn't be good for flow. But it looks like a complicated design (and therefore expensive!).
 

timmae2006

Leaving Skid Marks
Location
WA
First Name
Tim Dev
Drive
2000 Mitsibishi Legnum
using stainless on intake........thats silly......y not aluminium????its soso much lighter AND SO SO much cheaper. if you want s/s purely for aesthetics you can get ally polished, anodised even powder coated and the total cost should be well below the cost for s/s...i cant see how the type of metal used on intake will effect the sound effects but i could be wrong. ally is cheaper and lighter much better alternative..

As for design...i followed my intake and it reaches a point where it splits off to each turbo and it seems that the pipe going to the rear turbo is shorter distance than the pipe trailing to the front turbo....i wonder if moving the T piece to a location where the distance to each turbo is equal length??

Any tech heads have an answer to this?
 
G

Guest

Unregistered
stainless steel will resist heat more than aluminum and is therefore better for induction
 

frozen

1 AYC Bar
Lifetime Member
Location
Queensland
First Name
Josh
Drive
1990 Mitsubishi GTO
Formerly: 1996 Galant VR-4
stainless steel will resist heat more than aluminum and is therefore better for induction
this also goes the other way though - aluminium may heat up faster but also cools faster, just as stainless takes longer to cool. Put it this way - stainless is probably better for runs until the car heats up, then its average, where as the aluminium is lighter, and also cools quicker meaning it will be cooler for when you floor it next.. something like this im pretty sure anyway. weight would still be the main point though - heat you cant really stop.
 
G

Guest

Unregistered
having your piping made out of stainless or aluminum will not help you down the quarter or around a race track in anyway considering how heavy the car is but if you are really worried about weight than your best option is hpc coated mild steel. if i was going to make up an intake pipe i would get it made out of mild steel and then hpc coated the same goes for the front pipe aswell.
 

timmae2006

Leaving Skid Marks
Location
WA
First Name
Tim Dev
Drive
2000 Mitsibishi Legnum
good points $$$$$$$ being the major difference between the 2
 

timmae2006

Leaving Skid Marks
Location
WA
First Name
Tim Dev
Drive
2000 Mitsibishi Legnum
having your piping made out of stainless or aluminum will not help you down the quarter or around a race track in anyway considering how heavy the car is but if you are really worried about weight than your best option is hpc coated mild steel. if i was going to make up an intake pipe i would get it made out of mild steel and then hpc coated the same goes for the front pipe aswell.
i take it the hpc stuff is that special paint you use to keep the heat in cause that probably the bestest stuff IMO
 

SiliconAngel

1 AYC Bar
Location
Perth, WA
First Name
SA, Trevor
Drive
'99 Legnum VR4 Black MT
Or you could do what I'm intending for all my intake pipework, resulting in aluminium pipes with substantially better heat resistance than anything else, as well as lower weight and cop-proof to boot ;)
 

Tom

Leaving Skid Marks
Location
NSW
First Name
Tom
Drive
New: 2006 BMW 335i M-Sport | Old: 2000 Galant VR4, MY04 STI WRX, 2009 Audi A4 2.7tdi
Anyone know where I can find the right type of replacement filter? :)

Just for a start, then I'll save for the exhaust system and down pipe :)


Thanks for all the help and info so far guys!
 

Dr_Josh001

Leaving Skid Marks
Location
Driver, NT
First Name
Josh
Drive
96 Galant VR-4 Auto
I have a K&N rampod air filter which I bought off RPW. These work well when ducted too the front of the engine bay to keep the intake charge temps down. This usually means relocating the battery to the boot as there's bugger-all room for this. Here's a pic of my current engine bay setup:

S5004589.jpg


On the subject of heat soak and shielding; I have thought about wrapping something like canvas around the exposed pipes in the engine bay. Anyone think this would have a big difference? Because the pipes in the engine bay are too hot to touch and I know it's not from the compressed air!
 
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