Basic mods thread?

[SU8TLE]

im not going to ask cos it would have been asked a million times, so can i please get someone to link me to a thread that explains the basic or first stage set of performance mods one would do to a stock VR4? i dont know what thread title to do a search for but im guessing the members on here would know a good one to link me to. one for VR4 noobs would be great as im still learning all the new car lingo.

cheers in advance.

 

[unclepaulie]

everything you need to know:

http://ozvr4.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4889&highlight=staged+upgrades


to attain roughly 200kw at all fours

full 3inch exhaust and cat
replace all intake and cooler pipes with larger hard pipe
large intercooler
piggy back computer/standalone/7202 tune
cam gears
injectors
fuel pump
(edit and boost controller of some description

clutch OR wavespring/cooler to suit

 

[SU8TLE]

i knew there woul dhave to be one! lol, thanks heaps mate, 100% what i wanted to know. i reckon this would be as far (if not too far) that i would want to take my VR4 when i get it (grrr wish the SS would sell!). ill be bookmarking that thread. cheers.

 

[unclepaulie]

next step is turbos/head work/bottom end...big power

 

[SU8TLE]

next step is turbos/head work/bottom end...big power

hmmm considering this will be my daily/weekend family hauler... ill think ill stop at the previous mentioned mods! lol. dont feel like causing my family neck problems with neck snap when hitting boost.

 

[bradc]

I don't think you need injectors or cam gears to get to 200kw ATW, but the rest of the list sounds about right.

 

[bj82]

Manual boost controler too.
I didn't open the other link though so prob mentioned in there.

 

[unclepaulie]

i added them in as a safety buffer and for ease of tuning

 

[Slinz]

I don't think you need injectors or cam gears to get to 200kw ATW, but the rest of the list sounds about right.

That's what I thought! Phew. Also the piggyback or standalone ECU controls the boost so no the MBC isn't needed...Just money

 

[chrisssss]

my 2cents don't go a manual boost controller, if ure going to tune ure 7202, go an ebc, manual boost controllers never hold boost properly and they tend to spike save up and invest in a good ebc, and if u happen to get an auto put a trans cooler at the top of you're to do list

 

[Kenneth]

Fast and possibly the cheapest way to ~180kW ATW

Full exhaust
600x300x76 Intercooler
MBC (not necessary, but fun and only costs about $30)
MAF mod (free)
Good oils everywhere
High octane fuel

Rule number 1.. Don't ferk with the standard intake.

 

[fieldy107]

whats the MAF mod?

 

[Kenneth]

You wind out the calibration screw (in the bottom of the MAF) so that it sits flush with the bottom of the MAF.

It alters the load calculation done by the ECU and usually results in a slightly leaner mixture, everything else being healthy.

 

[chrisssss]

yes dont fk with the standard intake big big no no, good panel filter but i am eating my own words now i have a pod and just the snorkel because my hard piping does not allow for the orig air box to fit going to be putting the battery in the boot and getting a cai made up in its own box the job will cost about 600, can any reccomend something better i know theres the ARC box option but that to is 500 to 700, $700 is from OTR but i dont see how it gets cold air to it it just sits there in the open ?

 

[chrisssss]

Kenneth

You wind out the calibration screw (in the bottom of the MAF) so that it sits flush with the bottom of the MAF.

It alters the load calculation done by the ECU and usually results in a slightly leaner mixture, everything else being healthy.

Can someone please post a pic of were that screw is located mite help out as im running rich

 

[Kenneth]

If you are running too rich, you have another problem which you should fix first. Try changing your O2 sensor.

 

[chrisssss]

yeah was looking at that as a problem and also the pod but i cant fit anything else for the moment till i can get my CAI set up, till that is ready those heat shield's for the pod filter worth investing for time being or waste of money ?

 

[Kenneth]

The main problem with non OE intake setups is that they interfere with the way the air flow sensor (air speed sensor really) measures the air. This usually causes the sensor to over read and you use too much fuel.

The standard airbox design is done to ensure the most accurate and consistent readings from the sensor. It is also a cold air intake which is feed from a high pressure zone.

I measured the intake dimensions some time ago, and it is at least the equivalent of a 3" tube at the smallest point (the very front)

 

[bj82]

Kenneth

You wind out the calibration screw (in the bottom of the MAF) so that it sits flush with the bottom of the MAF.

It alters the load calculation done by the ECU and usually results in a slightly leaner mixture, everything else being healthy.

Can someone please post a pic of were that screw is located mite help out as im running rich

+1 for pic of said screw.

also i do agree with chris about MBC not holding boost as well as EBC and i do get some spike but for $30 bucks its def worth the money even if it is just while you are saving.

 

[Macca]

Might look at doing that MAF screw thing this weekend as my car is running a little rich i think. You can smell unburnt fuel at the back of the car at idle. How can you tell that winding the screw out wont make it run too lean?