yeah 10/8, although i hav been in dons car with 5/3 aussie spec tiens and the ride is comfy like stock but doesnt undulate as much as the stock suspension
Taylor
Leaving Skid Marks
Been in kens car which is 12/8 iirc. Although firm, would be what id go for.
Sent from my GT-I9100T using Tapatalk
Kenneth
1 AYC Bar
- Location
- NSW
- First Name
- Steve
- Drive
- 2010 nt did pajero tow car / 2000 6spd gc8 wrx tarmac rally car / 2000 Manual Subaru Outback 2.5 just a car
Theres a big difference in opinion on this, I'm thinking something like 6/5 but I hate oversprung cars and I want it more taily, that doesnt make this right for everyone though....
depends on the dampners that go with the springs too
- Location
- NSW
- First Name
- Steve
- Drive
- 2010 nt did pajero tow car / 2000 6spd gc8 wrx tarmac rally car / 2000 Manual Subaru Outback 2.5 just a car
Well yes they should match the spring, a lot of the time they dont.... Next week I'm measuring a set of stock springs and dampers so i'll let you know what they are so you know where the base is at least....
Kenneth
1 AYC Bar
12kg at low dampening will deliver a softer ride than 10kg at high dampening. (Assuming the same dampener of course)
As an example.
One reason you might, with 10kg springs, have the dampening up high is to combat body roll. Body roll is a low frequency (slow) movement and as such the dampeners will be moving slowly. To have any reasonable effect on the handling of this event, the dampening will have to be raised quite a bit.
The result of this will be that your high speed dampening (we are assuming that you haven't bought racing spec dampeners for many thousands of dollars where you can modify the low speed and high speed dampening rates) will be excessively high for road surface bumps at general speeds. When you hit any sort of irregularity in the road the high speed event will place a large amount of stress on the dampener which will transfer (in the way of shock, hence why they are often referred to as shocks) to the vehicle body and all suspension parts (including the lower ball joints by the way) resulting in a very bumpy experience.
Now if you moved to a 12kg spring, the difference between 10 and 12 is ~20%. So hitting a irregularity in the road will cause ~20% less deflection of the spring as well as 20% less movement of the dampener piston.
Because roll involves the anti-roll bar and the spring on the other side, roll resistance is increased more dramatically.
As a result, you can leave the dampeners at a low rate so their low speed response is leisurely and thus transmits less shock into the chassis. The result is a smoother overall experience.
If, on the other hand, you just want comfort and don't care about going around corners with little body roll, bottoming out when you go over big dips in the road at open road speeds etc, then you can leave your dampener settings low even on lower spring rate springs and enjoy even more comfort in day to day driving.
And race car setups don't come into it. They have a completely different requirement where comfort would never win over a change which would improve lap time.
Horses for courses if you want comfort as a primary concern, high damper rates are NOT your friend. If you have the dampeners up high and want comfort, you have failed in your spring choice.
Interestingly, I was reading an article the other day where some car manufacturer did just as I have described to increase comfort...
/EDIT: here is the link, Maserati... how about that. 15% stiffer springs, and "re-tuned" the shocks and increased anti-roll bar diameter to increase comfort and retain handling.
As an example.
One reason you might, with 10kg springs, have the dampening up high is to combat body roll. Body roll is a low frequency (slow) movement and as such the dampeners will be moving slowly. To have any reasonable effect on the handling of this event, the dampening will have to be raised quite a bit.
The result of this will be that your high speed dampening (we are assuming that you haven't bought racing spec dampeners for many thousands of dollars where you can modify the low speed and high speed dampening rates) will be excessively high for road surface bumps at general speeds. When you hit any sort of irregularity in the road the high speed event will place a large amount of stress on the dampener which will transfer (in the way of shock, hence why they are often referred to as shocks) to the vehicle body and all suspension parts (including the lower ball joints by the way) resulting in a very bumpy experience.
Now if you moved to a 12kg spring, the difference between 10 and 12 is ~20%. So hitting a irregularity in the road will cause ~20% less deflection of the spring as well as 20% less movement of the dampener piston.
Because roll involves the anti-roll bar and the spring on the other side, roll resistance is increased more dramatically.
As a result, you can leave the dampeners at a low rate so their low speed response is leisurely and thus transmits less shock into the chassis. The result is a smoother overall experience.
If, on the other hand, you just want comfort and don't care about going around corners with little body roll, bottoming out when you go over big dips in the road at open road speeds etc, then you can leave your dampener settings low even on lower spring rate springs and enjoy even more comfort in day to day driving.
And race car setups don't come into it. They have a completely different requirement where comfort would never win over a change which would improve lap time.
Horses for courses if you want comfort as a primary concern, high damper rates are NOT your friend. If you have the dampeners up high and want comfort, you have failed in your spring choice.
Interestingly, I was reading an article the other day where some car manufacturer did just as I have described to increase comfort...
/EDIT: here is the link, Maserati... how about that. 15% stiffer springs, and "re-tuned" the shocks and increased anti-roll bar diameter to increase comfort and retain handling.
smohekey
1 AYC Bar
Kenneth, do you happen to know what the standard spring rates on a set of Tein HAs would be?
Kenneth
1 AYC Bar
To be honest I don't know. I have never really looked hard at Tein for coilovers. I have always found the price too high for the adjustment range I wanted and I am not willing to buy them 2nd hand.
CANDEE
Leaving Skid Marks
Remind me to get Wynn to go through his old skool japanese documentation... Im sure he has the spring rate codes somewhere....
I think the springs for that generation of shock is progressive as well(well the ones we have are anyhow)...
smohekey
1 AYC Bar
Thanks Jeremy.
Kenneth
1 AYC Bar
You can't really compare different brands unless both sets are of the same spring rate and have the same adjustment levels. Combinations of damper rate and spring rate can make quite a big difference without any actual bearing on how good or bad the coilovers are.
When you buy second hand it can be pretty hit and miss which is why I would not buy 2nd hand coilovers (unless it was for parts
)
The good thing about companies such as Tein is that if you get the suspension which suits your driving style, the setup is usually pretty good from factory. The problem is getting the correct set and being able to afford that if you want something above basic.
I had a set of sustec pro coilovers on one of my previous VR-4s. Absolutely brilliant 99.9% of the time. Fairly comfortable, bugger all body roll and handled like on rails. The issue was that there was no dampening adjustment on them so when I went over bumps in the er... track surface... in excess of 160kph at the bottom of a down-hill section, the car would bottom out. (And my car wasn't THAT low... at least not nearly as low as some of you have your cars)
When you buy second hand it can be pretty hit and miss which is why I would not buy 2nd hand coilovers (unless it was for parts
)The good thing about companies such as Tein is that if you get the suspension which suits your driving style, the setup is usually pretty good from factory. The problem is getting the correct set and being able to afford that if you want something above basic.
I had a set of sustec pro coilovers on one of my previous VR-4s. Absolutely brilliant 99.9% of the time. Fairly comfortable, bugger all body roll and handled like on rails. The issue was that there was no dampening adjustment on them so when I went over bumps in the er... track surface... in excess of 160kph at the bottom of a down-hill section, the car would bottom out. (And my car wasn't THAT low... at least not nearly as low as some of you have your cars
)
low+vr4
Leaving Skid Marks
Does anyone have tein superwagons? And are they any good? cheers
smohekey
1 AYC Bar
I had a service and found them too soft for my liking.
low+vr4
Leaving Skid Marks
even with the damper at its hardest?
smohekey
1 AYC Bar
The ones I had were only height adjustable.
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