Dropping the axles off the rear diff

[pu-11-me]

Does anyone know how to do it? (That was a rhetorical question, I know some of you do so please enlighten me :lol

I had a quick look last night but there doesn't appear to be an easy way to do it?

 

[Nitephyre]

Use the SST codenamed BFH™?

 

[pu-11-me]

Ha, I don't think that'd go too well lol

 

[bradc]

The easiest way is to unbolt a few suspension arms so you can move the hubs out further from the car, then just lever them out with a big flat head screw driver.

 

[sn00ze]

i replaced my rear diff 3 weeks ago and the whole rear cradle/subframe whatever you want to call it came down. if you just wish to change the driveshafts or change a split drive shaft boot. then you just undo the driveshaft nut in the hub, make sure its loose in the splines and not rusted in, undo the top arm and whatever you can see that will stop you from getting the shaft out, ie abs wires etc. get under with a pry bar and pry the shaft out of the diff end by levering between the shaft cup where it goes into the diff, shaft circlip should pop out and then u need to angle your hub so you can come out with the shaft.

 

[sn00ze]

lol brad

 

[sn00ze]

lol brad u must have post just as i did, +1 for what you said, i was finding it hard to word that.

 

[bradc]

It is a fairly simple job

I removed my diff without removing the subframe, which is probably a bit more fiddly, but I was afraid of removing the subframe and not knowing what to do!

 

[sn00ze]

yeh when i looked at it i figure dyou could do it without dropping the subframe, figured i might as well go the whole hog, being a mechanic and havnig a hoist and the most insane array of tools does help though. the biggest thing is experience, ie im a 4th year now almost got my trade but jobs i do now without even thinking i shat my pants at in 2nd year when i first tried them, its weird but jobs you find hard at first or fiddly just seem to become so easy and not so fiddly after a few times. some of the shit my boss does with ease is insane. im like HOW THE F*CK did you do that. *shrugs, just do it*

 

[pu-11-me]

The easiest way is to unbolt a few suspension arms so you can move the hubs out further from the car, then just lever them out with a big flat head screw driver.

Thanks Brad, thought that would be the case!

 

[godzilla]

Just done this this arv. The need to remove the control arms and the curved suspension arms are not able to be avoided when removing the axles.

With the diff, there are 4 24mm bolts holding it to the sub frame. One of these bolts cannot be accessed using a rachet & socket. You will require a spanner for this one. I did not have a 24mm spanner so I had to drop the whole sub frame. I found it pretty easy. I was also unsure how you could get the bolts out whilst it was in the sub frame - two of the bolts are very long.

 

[SiliconAngel]

There are quite a few 24mm bolts on the VR4 - highly recommend you get yourself a 24mm spanner for any future work. Only things larger than this that I can think of are the wheel hub castle nuts - from memory even the crank shaft pulley bolt is 24mm (correct me if I'm wrong, but I'm certain I used a 24mm socket to get mine off, and I don't have any larger sockets). Unfortunately I've gone and added a bunch of extra outsized fittings with my bypass filter system, but that's something only Bradbrad will have to concern himself with (and something tells me he will have all the appropriate tools, anyway)

 

[bradc]

Everyone with a VR-4 should have spanners and sockets that are 8,10,12,14,17,19,22,24mm and a 32mm socket is needed for the crown nuts on the end of the axles.

I *think* that there is a bolt that is removed with a 1/2" drive somewhere on the cambelt side of the engine but I could be wrong.

 

[naughtika]

Everyone with a VR-4 should have spanners and sockets that are 8,10,12,14,17,19,22,24mm and a 32mm socket is needed for the crown nuts on the end of the axles.

I *think* that there is a bolt that is removed with a 1/2" drive somewhere on the cambelt side of the engine but I could be wrong.

I usually use 1/2" drives on bolts bigger than 12mm

 

[bradc]

I only use half inch drive stuff all the way from 10mm to 32mm in my Ko'ken set. I have another set that has both 3/8 and 1/4 drives that range from about 5mm up to 22mm in total but rarely use them.

 

[smohekey]

I think Brad is referring to the fact that the crank shaft bolt can be removed with just a 1/2" drive extension. I.e. it has square 1/2" recessed center.

 

[SiliconAngel]

Isn't that the crank shaft end bolt??

 

[smohekey]

Isn't that the crank shaft end bolt??

That's what I said..