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Engine Lubrication Basics
Lubrication plays a key role in the life expectancy of an engine. Without oil, an engine would succumb to overheating and seizing very quickly. Lubricants help mitigate this problem, and if properly monitored and maintained, can extend the life of your motor.
Where Engine Lubrication Begins
The process of lubrication in an internal combustion engine begins in the sump, commonly referred to as the oil pan. From here, the oil is pulled through a strainer, by the oil pump, removing larger contaminants from the mass of the fluid. The oil then goes through the oil filter. It is important to note that not all filters perform the same. A filter’s ability to remove particles is dependent upon many factors, including the media material (pore size, surface area and depth of filter), the differential pressure across the media, and the flow rate across the media. Oil is pumped through passageways to the various components of the engine such as the cam, main bearings, rod, pistons, etc. Gravity then pulls the oil back down to the bottom of the motor to drain back into the sump, and the cycle repeats.
Makeup of Oil
To appreciate the full impact of the engine lubrication process, you must understand how oils are formulated. All engine oils have two components: additives and base oil. The total volume of additives in motor oil can range from 20 to 30 percent, depending on brand, formulation and application. These additives can enhance, suppress or add properties to the base oil.
A typical additive package found in engine oil would include a detergent and a dispersant. These two additives work together to help rid the engine system of deposits caused by the burning of fuel and contributed to by blow-by gases. Dispersants and detergents are small particles that have a polar head and an oleophilic tail. The polar heads are attracted to contaminants within the oil and surround them, forming a structure called a micelle.
Soot is a good example of a deposit that is controlled by detergents and dispersants. Soot particles are enveloped by dispersant particles, forming a micelle, and are kept from attaching to metal surfaces. They are moved in this state through the oil system until they are removed by the filter. This also prevents a process known as congealing. During congealing, soot particles begin to stack upon each other or congeal into a larger particle. Smaller soot particles that could pass through components without interrupting the fluid film can congeal to make larger particles, which may disrupt the film and damage surfaces.
Most vehicle engines use some form of multi-grade oil. This type of oil has an additive called a viscosity-index (VI) improver. A common example would be 10W-30 or 5W-40. These VI improvers are long-chain organic molecules that change shape as the temperature of their environment changes. When in cold environments (engine startup), these molecules are tightly bound. As the oil heats up, they begin to stretch out. This allows an oil to flow more readily at colder temperatures but still maintain an acceptable viscosity and, more importantly, a lubricating layer in the operating temperature range.
Another common additive would be an anti-wear (AW) formula. AW additives have particles that are shaped similar to detergents and dispersants, but the polar heads of these molecules are attracted to metal surfaces. Once attached to a metal surface, AW additives form a sacrificial layer that protects the surfaces beneath them from degradation under boundary conditions. Zinc dialkyldithiophosphate (ZDDP) is a common form of this additive.
Oil Breakdowns
Engine oils are subject to several types of failures. Contamination poses a significant problem within engines. Environmental contaminants can expedite the process of oxidation and cause premature filter plugging. Fuel contamination can lower the viscosity of the oil, leading to boundary conditions within the engine’s moving parts. Glycol (antifreeze) contamination does the opposite, increasing viscosity so the oil doesn’t flow as well into places that require thinner oil. Overheating and long drain intervals can also hasten the degradation of the oil and result in oxidation and poor lubricity.
In addition, additive shearing can create engine lubrication problems. Over time, VI improvers are sheared down, reducing the oil’s viscosity at operating temperatures. The AW and dispersants/detergents are no different. They become depleted, and the remaining molecules are not as effective. An oil change is then needed. This can be caused by extended drain intervals and poor maintenance.
When it comes to engines, the same principles of lubrication apply. The lubricating film must be maintained to ensure proper operating conditions and to achieve the maximum life of the engine’s components. Changing oil regularly and sustaining appropriate fluid levels are the keys to overall engine health and lifespan.
Automotive Oil Changes Made Easy
The best reason to regularly change the engine oil and filter is to prolong engine life. Contaminants in engine oil come from a variety of sources. In a gasoline engine, the oil is contaminated primarily by combustion gases seeping past the piston rings. Minute airborne particles that escape past the air filter also contribute to oil contamination. As engine components wear, more gases will slip past the rings during the compression and power cycle.
Over the past decade, gasoline-refining technology has decreased combustion pollutants, helping to reduce engine oil contaminants. Additives increase the ability of the engine oil to maintain adequate lubrication quality even when contaminated. As technology advances, the time between oil changes is lengthened. As a result, perhaps oil changes will be necessary only a few times during the life of the engine. Until then, timely oil changes, maintaining the engine and changing the air filter will help prolong engine life.
There are two methods of performing an oil change. The first is to normalize the engine operating temperature. That requires the engine to idle for a time or a few trips around the neighborhood. Now that the engine is warm, drain the sump and change the filter. The thought behind this is contaminates are suspended in the oil and when the sump is drained, the harmful contaminates drain with the oil.
The second method is to drain the oil when the engine is cool, when a good percentage of the oil has settled into the sump. For a couple of years, I practiced the first method. Both have merit; however, the second method works best for me. With either method, the most important step is to develop a routine that works. The location where the procedure is performed should be reasonably level as most sump bottoms are formed to tilt toward the drain plug.
Draining the oil when the engine is cool (method number two) offers the following benefits: It is not necessary to circle the block a few times or have the engine at high idle for 20 minutes trying to warm the oil; when the engine has been at rest for several hours and the drain plug is removed, the oil is cool and drain flow is more controllable; pressure between the filter and the filter housing has bled off, making filter removal a cleaner process. A cleaner process is generally a quicker process.
Coolant Leak Detection
Another benefit of the second method is that it is easier to detect coolant (antifreeze) leaks. When undisturbed, the water and antifreeze will settle around the drain plug. By first cracking the drain plug slightly, if there is a coolant leak, water and antifreeze will be the first to run out. Use a glass jar to catch what has discharged for inspection. If only oil emerges, continue to run out to drain plug as the following describes. Coolant leaks may also be observed as brown bubbles above the oil level on the dipstick.
Oil Change Procedure
Clean the filter seat surface of the filter housing. Be sure the rubber gasket from the old filter is not stuck to the filter seat surface. Clean the area around the drain plug and install; wipe area again and check for drain plug weep. One suggestion here: a copper gasket on the drain plug lasts longer than a fiber washer or nylon gasket.
The angle at which the filter mounts to the engine will dictate how much oil to put in the filter. Filters mount at different angles depending on engine design. If the filter mounts vertically, then fill the filter. Many four- and six-cylinder engine filters mount at an angle. Filling the filter in these instances will cause a mess.
After a final fill-up in the center of the new filter, coat the filter seal with new oil. Install the filter according to filter torque instructions; this makes it easier to remove the filter next time. I prefer to begin filling the crankcase with the open container I used for the filter; it helps keep track of the amount. Prop the container into the crankcase fill.
While the container is draining, clean up the old filter and drain container. Use a type of drain container that seals tightly for recycle purposes.
Many refuse stations have a used oil reclamation container. In between adding the remaining specified amount to the crankcase, do a final cleanup from underneath, put the tools away and inspect the engine compartment for leaks. After filling with the recommended amount, close the fill cap and remove the disposable gloves. Start the engine and check for leaks. This whole process can be accomplished in about 10 minutes. The goal is to develop a routine that is easy to perform and works well.
Dipstick Oil Analysis
Dipstick oil analysis may sound a little goofy, but it works. Not to mention it’s also cheap and quick. There’s only one problem - figuring out what the oil on the dipstick really means. No worry. Sit tight for five easy lessons on reading your dipstick.
Lesson No. 1 - Retrieving the Dipstick
Engine Lubrication Basics
Lubrication plays a key role in the life expectancy of an engine. Without oil, an engine would succumb to overheating and seizing very quickly. Lubricants help mitigate this problem, and if properly monitored and maintained, can extend the life of your motor.
Where Engine Lubrication Begins
The process of lubrication in an internal combustion engine begins in the sump, commonly referred to as the oil pan. From here, the oil is pulled through a strainer, by the oil pump, removing larger contaminants from the mass of the fluid. The oil then goes through the oil filter. It is important to note that not all filters perform the same. A filter’s ability to remove particles is dependent upon many factors, including the media material (pore size, surface area and depth of filter), the differential pressure across the media, and the flow rate across the media. Oil is pumped through passageways to the various components of the engine such as the cam, main bearings, rod, pistons, etc. Gravity then pulls the oil back down to the bottom of the motor to drain back into the sump, and the cycle repeats.
Makeup of Oil
To appreciate the full impact of the engine lubrication process, you must understand how oils are formulated. All engine oils have two components: additives and base oil. The total volume of additives in motor oil can range from 20 to 30 percent, depending on brand, formulation and application. These additives can enhance, suppress or add properties to the base oil.
A typical additive package found in engine oil would include a detergent and a dispersant. These two additives work together to help rid the engine system of deposits caused by the burning of fuel and contributed to by blow-by gases. Dispersants and detergents are small particles that have a polar head and an oleophilic tail. The polar heads are attracted to contaminants within the oil and surround them, forming a structure called a micelle.
Soot is a good example of a deposit that is controlled by detergents and dispersants. Soot particles are enveloped by dispersant particles, forming a micelle, and are kept from attaching to metal surfaces. They are moved in this state through the oil system until they are removed by the filter. This also prevents a process known as congealing. During congealing, soot particles begin to stack upon each other or congeal into a larger particle. Smaller soot particles that could pass through components without interrupting the fluid film can congeal to make larger particles, which may disrupt the film and damage surfaces.
Most vehicle engines use some form of multi-grade oil. This type of oil has an additive called a viscosity-index (VI) improver. A common example would be 10W-30 or 5W-40. These VI improvers are long-chain organic molecules that change shape as the temperature of their environment changes. When in cold environments (engine startup), these molecules are tightly bound. As the oil heats up, they begin to stretch out. This allows an oil to flow more readily at colder temperatures but still maintain an acceptable viscosity and, more importantly, a lubricating layer in the operating temperature range.
Another common additive would be an anti-wear (AW) formula. AW additives have particles that are shaped similar to detergents and dispersants, but the polar heads of these molecules are attracted to metal surfaces. Once attached to a metal surface, AW additives form a sacrificial layer that protects the surfaces beneath them from degradation under boundary conditions. Zinc dialkyldithiophosphate (ZDDP) is a common form of this additive.
Oil Breakdowns
Engine oils are subject to several types of failures. Contamination poses a significant problem within engines. Environmental contaminants can expedite the process of oxidation and cause premature filter plugging. Fuel contamination can lower the viscosity of the oil, leading to boundary conditions within the engine’s moving parts. Glycol (antifreeze) contamination does the opposite, increasing viscosity so the oil doesn’t flow as well into places that require thinner oil. Overheating and long drain intervals can also hasten the degradation of the oil and result in oxidation and poor lubricity.
In addition, additive shearing can create engine lubrication problems. Over time, VI improvers are sheared down, reducing the oil’s viscosity at operating temperatures. The AW and dispersants/detergents are no different. They become depleted, and the remaining molecules are not as effective. An oil change is then needed. This can be caused by extended drain intervals and poor maintenance.
When it comes to engines, the same principles of lubrication apply. The lubricating film must be maintained to ensure proper operating conditions and to achieve the maximum life of the engine’s components. Changing oil regularly and sustaining appropriate fluid levels are the keys to overall engine health and lifespan.
Automotive Oil Changes Made Easy
The best reason to regularly change the engine oil and filter is to prolong engine life. Contaminants in engine oil come from a variety of sources. In a gasoline engine, the oil is contaminated primarily by combustion gases seeping past the piston rings. Minute airborne particles that escape past the air filter also contribute to oil contamination. As engine components wear, more gases will slip past the rings during the compression and power cycle.
Over the past decade, gasoline-refining technology has decreased combustion pollutants, helping to reduce engine oil contaminants. Additives increase the ability of the engine oil to maintain adequate lubrication quality even when contaminated. As technology advances, the time between oil changes is lengthened. As a result, perhaps oil changes will be necessary only a few times during the life of the engine. Until then, timely oil changes, maintaining the engine and changing the air filter will help prolong engine life.
There are two methods of performing an oil change. The first is to normalize the engine operating temperature. That requires the engine to idle for a time or a few trips around the neighborhood. Now that the engine is warm, drain the sump and change the filter. The thought behind this is contaminates are suspended in the oil and when the sump is drained, the harmful contaminates drain with the oil.
The second method is to drain the oil when the engine is cool, when a good percentage of the oil has settled into the sump. For a couple of years, I practiced the first method. Both have merit; however, the second method works best for me. With either method, the most important step is to develop a routine that works. The location where the procedure is performed should be reasonably level as most sump bottoms are formed to tilt toward the drain plug.
Draining the oil when the engine is cool (method number two) offers the following benefits: It is not necessary to circle the block a few times or have the engine at high idle for 20 minutes trying to warm the oil; when the engine has been at rest for several hours and the drain plug is removed, the oil is cool and drain flow is more controllable; pressure between the filter and the filter housing has bled off, making filter removal a cleaner process. A cleaner process is generally a quicker process.
Coolant Leak Detection
Another benefit of the second method is that it is easier to detect coolant (antifreeze) leaks. When undisturbed, the water and antifreeze will settle around the drain plug. By first cracking the drain plug slightly, if there is a coolant leak, water and antifreeze will be the first to run out. Use a glass jar to catch what has discharged for inspection. If only oil emerges, continue to run out to drain plug as the following describes. Coolant leaks may also be observed as brown bubbles above the oil level on the dipstick.
Oil Change Procedure
- Gather the necessary supplies. Wearing disposable gloves, use a paper towel to clean the area around the oil fill cap.
- Open the cap to break any minor vacuum created when the drain plug is removed. Place the drain pan slightly off-center of the drain plug.
- Using a suitable wrench (preferably six- point), unscrew the drain plug to the end of the threads. Slowly tip the plug upward and away to get a feel of where to place the drain pan to catch the oil. Be sure to place the pan so when draining slows, the pan is catching the oil.
- While the sump is draining, open a container of new oil and pour oil into the center of the new filter. Pressure from the pump pushes the oil through the media (from outside to inside), out the center to the oil galleries.
Some people advise against the practice of prefilling the filter. The reason is that new oil is often dirtier than what is recommended for engines. When new oil is introduced into the inside of a new filter, this oil will then pass unfiltered into the engine and critical frictional surfaces (cam/follower, ring/bore, bearing/shaft, etc.). - Slowly roll the filter around; this allows the filter media to absorb the oil and minimize oil starvation at the bearings upon initial start-up.
- While the filter media is wicking up the oil and the sump is draining, remove the old filter and turn it over to drain. In many cases, the friction provided by the disposable gloves will allow a sufficient grip to unscrew the old filter without using a filter wrench. A filter wrench will be required if the filter is inaccessible by hand, if the filter was over-tightened or the engine was overheated.
The angle at which the filter mounts to the engine will dictate how much oil to put in the filter. Filters mount at different angles depending on engine design. If the filter mounts vertically, then fill the filter. Many four- and six-cylinder engine filters mount at an angle. Filling the filter in these instances will cause a mess.
After a final fill-up in the center of the new filter, coat the filter seal with new oil. Install the filter according to filter torque instructions; this makes it easier to remove the filter next time. I prefer to begin filling the crankcase with the open container I used for the filter; it helps keep track of the amount. Prop the container into the crankcase fill.
While the container is draining, clean up the old filter and drain container. Use a type of drain container that seals tightly for recycle purposes.
Many refuse stations have a used oil reclamation container. In between adding the remaining specified amount to the crankcase, do a final cleanup from underneath, put the tools away and inspect the engine compartment for leaks. After filling with the recommended amount, close the fill cap and remove the disposable gloves. Start the engine and check for leaks. This whole process can be accomplished in about 10 minutes. The goal is to develop a routine that is easy to perform and works well.
Dipstick Oil Analysis
Dipstick oil analysis may sound a little goofy, but it works. Not to mention it’s also cheap and quick. There’s only one problem - figuring out what the oil on the dipstick really means. No worry. Sit tight for five easy lessons on reading your dipstick.
Lesson No. 1 - Retrieving the Dipstick
- With the engine hot, park on level ground and shut off the engine. Wait a couple minutes for the oil to return to the oil pan.
- Open the hood and find the dipstick on the engine - a metal loop or grip sticking out of the end of a metal stalk. If you can’t find it, your owner’s manual should help.
- With a rag or thick paper towel in one hand, pull on the metal loop or grip and remove the dipstick with the other. Wipe the oil-wet straight end of the dipstick and push it back into the stalk you pulled it out of.
- Wait a few seconds and pull out the dipstick again.
- Examine the end of the dipstick and notice where the oil ends. There are markings that indicate the level the oil should reach.
- If the oil doesn’t reach inside the markings on the dipstick, you need to add at least one quart of oil. The amount of make-up oil you would expect to add will vary depending on the age of your car, type of engine, total mileage and driving conditions. The dipstick is your gauge for abnormally high oil consumption. Real concern begins at about one quart for every 1,000 miles (0.95 liters for every 1,600 kilometers). It’s time to plan an overhaul if the problem advances to one quart every 500 miles (800 kilometers).
- Is it OK to be a quart low? The sidebar at the bottom of this article can answer this question.
- In certain cases, the oil level may have risen since the last time you checked. This could be due to condensed water (from combustion), condensed fuel or a coolant leak - all are causes for concern.
- Fuel-diluted motor oil (from blow-by or leakage) can substantially reduce oil viscosity and thin additive concentration. The odor of diesel fuel can often be detected right from the dipstick.
- Free and emulsified water is harmful to the oil and the engine. For short-trip drivers, water condensation may be more acute if your engine has the flexible fuel vehicle (FFV) option and you are burning an alcohol-gasoline fuel blend. It is important to remember that combustion produces water in your engine - more water than the fuel consumed. Most of the water goes out the tailpipe, but if the engine is cool, much of it may condense in the crankcase.
- A simple way to detect water in used motor oil is to put a drop of oil from the dipstick on a hot exhaust manifold. If it crackles (sounds like bacon frying) this is an indication of water contamination. Beware that there is some risk that the drop of oil may catch fire.
- Brand new automobiles imported from Japan may have a high oil level due to short-run engine starts (as many as 50) required when the vehicle is transported from the assembly plant, across the ocean, and finally to the dealer’s lot. In this case, an oil and filter change may be merited.
- Coolant leak is a serious problem relating to high oil level. See Lesson No. 5.
- Whatever the cause of the high oil level, the condition needs to be quickly corrected.
- Note: accidental overfilling oil into your engine can cause problems too. As the crankshaft rotates it will churn the oil, causing aeration and eventually sustained foam may form. This can lead to overheated motor oil, oxidation and a loss of oil pressure. Spongy aerated oil is hard to pump. It starves the engine and critical lubricated surfaces.
- Oil is not like a fine wine that gets better over time. Instead, it ages at a rate that is influenced by driving conditions, fuel quality, engine age, motor oil quality and climate. If not changed in time, your oil will wither and fail to protect your engine.
- So, let’s take a close look at the oil on the dipstick. The oil should look smooth and glossy and somewhat transparent. If it has sludgy deposits or grainy particles of dirt, it’s time for an oil change. The same is true if the oil looks too thick, is too dark (opaque), and/or has a putrid rotten-cheese smell.
- If you still don’t know whether you need an oil change, consider doing a blotter spot test.
- Oxidized and contaminated oil will lose interfacial tension. A simple test for interfacial tension is to place a drop of used oil from the dipstick on the surface of water. If the oil drop spreads out over the water’s surface (instead of beading up like a new oil) it may be time for an oil change.
- Brown bubbles or a dried crusty-brown residue above the oil level line on the dipstick could be an indication that coolant (water and antifreeze) has leaked into your engine. The oil on the dipstick might even look like chocolate milk. Never taste motor oil as a test for antifreeze.
- Another prominent indication of coolant leak is white exhaust smoke that has a sweet odor. In this case, the dipstick oil level may actually rise, indicating a significant amount of coolant has leaked into the crankcase.
- To confirm a coolant leak, shut off the engine, let it set for an hour or two, unthread the drain plug and use a clear glass or plastic bottle to catch the liquid. Because both water and antifreeze are heavier than oil, they will puddle up at the bottom of the oil pan. Collect a couple of ounces of fluid and immediately retighten the drain. Inspect the fluid for glycol and water. Glycol and water often look like a thick mayonnaise-like paste, depending on how long the coolant has been in the crankcase. You might also detect a sweet antifreeze smell.
- If you have detected coolant in your motor oil, your engine should be taken in for immediate service.
