naughtika
OzVR4 Stalker
So far we know little about this super gadget that Mitsu added to this model of VR4's, so can everyone share their knowledge and experiences about this hardware and add it to this thread. So that in the future we'll all just go into this thread and look quickly.. As I had this discussion earlier with LeeButts and asked if there were any dedicated threads about the AYC and other parts why not have one like the Intercooler thread or the TD04 upgrades and probably others.. I thought why not have one specifically for AYC and add it to the index...
Here are the things that I've thought of so far...
1. How does it work and What it is..
- Links provided by gorgath.. thanks
- What is AYC?
- Mitsubishi Motors - Active Yaw Control
2. How to get it serviced..
- if you're technically minded person and know your way around your car.. and doesn't mind taking risks.. follow this link (thanks to SA for this)
- if you're not so technically minded or just don't have the time to do it yourself.. Known workshops that have done it before, not just for our cars but specially on Evo's (since evo's have been using it since evo 4+)
- Quote from lancerregister
"Q: Does the AYC fluid have to be changed at a Mitsubishi Dealer?
A: According to the current service schedules for the Evo 4 onwards, the AYC fluid for the AYC clutch packs (ATFSP-III is now used as AYC fluid is no longer available) and the ATF fluid in the boot reservoir has to be changed every 4,500 miles (it has been suggested that Mitsubishi may extend this service interval for the AYC to 18,000 miles at a later date). Changing the AYC fluid in itself is not a problem. The problem comes when you change the ATF fluid in the hydraulic actuator system as you have to bleed the air out. The workshop manuals do state that the hydraulic system can be bled manually but it has been found that it can be difficult to get all of the air from the system using the manual method. The easiest way is to use the Mitsubishi MUT-II diagnostic tool, which is an electronic control box that plugs into the car for fault finding and servicing. The MUT-II has a program that operates the valves in the hydraulic system in the correct sequence so the air can be bled completely. Unfortunately the MUT-II is only available at Mitsubishi dealers or selected approved agents."
* Workshops to get it serviced at..
* APC at Underwood QLD
* Neal Lowe at Springwood QLD
* Meek Automotive at Girraween NSW (can't find a google map)
* TechSport at Bayswater VIC
* Mitsubishi Yamanto QLD - no link yet..
3. How to Use it or How to engage the hardware..
- Make a quick turn and floor the accelerator.. probably not the best
but always works
- Also refer to the link in Q1.
4. If things go wrong..
These are the things you'll need to check..
- Fuse & Relay for the AYC & ABS and TCL (if you have TIP)
-- Quote from Bradc "I've NEVER heard of the AYC fuse blowing at all, EVER. However it is a common trick to pull the AYC fuse in case you are driving with a space saver or have wheel sensor issues or whatever."
- Check your Tyres if they all have the same overall diameter..
- Typical electrical connections - see if there's any loose wiring etc.
- The Fluid.. check your AYC Fluid Level and if it smells burnt or rather old..
- Quote from Bradc "If any wheel sensors go the ABS light will come on first, so no biggie there.
- If you had flat tyre.. disable your AYC..
-- Quote from Bradc "You DO NOT under any circumstances want to drive with the AYC constantly at 1 bar god forbid 2. You will overheat the ATF, stuff the clutch packs, and end up with an expensive bill.
- "AYC Pump - if the light comes on on hotter days or after a bit of heavy driving you need to buy a new pump or adjust the pressure at which it requires to operate. PM mpbvr4 (malc) and ask him for a new adjustable switch." - another quote from Bradc
5. How can we improve it..
- I've heard from someone (not sure if he's reputable) that adding Oil cooler before or after the hardware will benefit from it's operation..
- S-AYC - somewhere out there had replaced our existing ones with the EVO version.. not sure if its the practical approach but I read somewhere that it works...
- Quote from Bradc "The S-AYC's fit fine and alter the handling quite dramatically, apparently allowing big long power slides around roundabouts as posted by the uk members, but I haven't experienced it myself, so I don't know what it is actually like."
6. Other hardware associated with it..
- ABS - ABS computer, sensor and others..
- G Sensors - can't seem to find places who sell this stuff..
- Replacing the AYC Pressure Switch - As stated in this link
- AYC Pump - good luck
- AYC Computer - will Evo versions work?!
All members.. just add whatever you can think of..
Admins & Mods.. Please edit where necessary..
Here are the things that I've thought of so far...
1. How does it work and What it is..
- Links provided by gorgath.. thanks
- What is AYC?
- Mitsubishi Motors - Active Yaw Control
2. How to get it serviced..
- if you're technically minded person and know your way around your car.. and doesn't mind taking risks.. follow this link (thanks to SA for this)
- if you're not so technically minded or just don't have the time to do it yourself.. Known workshops that have done it before, not just for our cars but specially on Evo's (since evo's have been using it since evo 4+)
- Quote from lancerregister
"Q: Does the AYC fluid have to be changed at a Mitsubishi Dealer?
A: According to the current service schedules for the Evo 4 onwards, the AYC fluid for the AYC clutch packs (ATFSP-III is now used as AYC fluid is no longer available) and the ATF fluid in the boot reservoir has to be changed every 4,500 miles (it has been suggested that Mitsubishi may extend this service interval for the AYC to 18,000 miles at a later date). Changing the AYC fluid in itself is not a problem. The problem comes when you change the ATF fluid in the hydraulic actuator system as you have to bleed the air out. The workshop manuals do state that the hydraulic system can be bled manually but it has been found that it can be difficult to get all of the air from the system using the manual method. The easiest way is to use the Mitsubishi MUT-II diagnostic tool, which is an electronic control box that plugs into the car for fault finding and servicing. The MUT-II has a program that operates the valves in the hydraulic system in the correct sequence so the air can be bled completely. Unfortunately the MUT-II is only available at Mitsubishi dealers or selected approved agents."
* Workshops to get it serviced at..
* APC at Underwood QLD
* Neal Lowe at Springwood QLD
* Meek Automotive at Girraween NSW (can't find a google map)
* TechSport at Bayswater VIC
* Mitsubishi Yamanto QLD - no link yet..
3. How to Use it or How to engage the hardware..
- Make a quick turn and floor the accelerator.. probably not the best
- Also refer to the link in Q1.
4. If things go wrong..
These are the things you'll need to check..
- Fuse & Relay for the AYC & ABS and TCL (if you have TIP)
-- Quote from Bradc "I've NEVER heard of the AYC fuse blowing at all, EVER. However it is a common trick to pull the AYC fuse in case you are driving with a space saver or have wheel sensor issues or whatever."
- Check your Tyres if they all have the same overall diameter..
- Typical electrical connections - see if there's any loose wiring etc.
- The Fluid.. check your AYC Fluid Level and if it smells burnt or rather old..
- Quote from Bradc "If any wheel sensors go the ABS light will come on first, so no biggie there.
- If you had flat tyre.. disable your AYC..
-- Quote from Bradc "You DO NOT under any circumstances want to drive with the AYC constantly at 1 bar god forbid 2. You will overheat the ATF, stuff the clutch packs, and end up with an expensive bill.
- "AYC Pump - if the light comes on on hotter days or after a bit of heavy driving you need to buy a new pump or adjust the pressure at which it requires to operate. PM mpbvr4 (malc) and ask him for a new adjustable switch." - another quote from Bradc
5. How can we improve it..
- I've heard from someone (not sure if he's reputable) that adding Oil cooler before or after the hardware will benefit from it's operation..
- S-AYC - somewhere out there had replaced our existing ones with the EVO version.. not sure if its the practical approach but I read somewhere that it works...
- Quote from Bradc "The S-AYC's fit fine and alter the handling quite dramatically, apparently allowing big long power slides around roundabouts as posted by the uk members, but I haven't experienced it myself, so I don't know what it is actually like."
6. Other hardware associated with it..
- ABS - ABS computer, sensor and others..
- G Sensors - can't seem to find places who sell this stuff..
- Replacing the AYC Pressure Switch - As stated in this link
- AYC Pump - good luck
- AYC Computer - will Evo versions work?!
All members.. just add whatever you can think of..
Admins & Mods.. Please edit where necessary..