REI600
Leaving Skid Marks
- Location
- Rockhampton, QLD
- First Name
- Ian
- Drive
- 1998 Legnum VR4 5 spd Manual
1996 Mazda Proceed 4x4
Project - Datsun 1600 Turbo rotary conv.
- Thread starter
- #22
Thanks Vstar 
REI600
Leaving Skid Marks
- Location
- Rockhampton, QLD
- First Name
- Ian
- Drive
- 1998 Legnum VR4 5 spd Manual
1996 Mazda Proceed 4x4
Project - Datsun 1600 Turbo rotary conv.
- Thread starter
- #23
So, I am new to the world of the Legnum (ec5w '98) and I just read this list and I have at least 3 of the listed issues with my car.
I have tapping (lifters) and the clock blacks out... thought it might have been to do with the aftermarket stereo install... good to know it is a factory known issue. I also have a torn CV boot. I will be addressing a number of these over a short amount of time in the coming weeks. Hopefully, I can get a lasting solution to the more serious of them.
One thing I have that is not listed is this.
Usually on cold starts, the car will cut ignition when the throttle is compressed (even if only slightly). If you lift off the throttle, the idle picks back up and runs really smoothly. Also, it'll free rev and idle with no issue at all.
The thought is that it might be the MAF sensor being grubby or maybe it is just damaged??? I don't know. Yet to be properly explored.
Does this sound anything like what anyone on here has dealt with? If it is, Maybe some tips on how to deal with it?
I did a search on MAF sensor on here but not much comes up... at all...
I have tapping (lifters) and the clock blacks out... thought it might have been to do with the aftermarket stereo install... good to know it is a factory known issue. I also have a torn CV boot. I will be addressing a number of these over a short amount of time in the coming weeks. Hopefully, I can get a lasting solution to the more serious of them.
One thing I have that is not listed is this.
Usually on cold starts, the car will cut ignition when the throttle is compressed (even if only slightly). If you lift off the throttle, the idle picks back up and runs really smoothly. Also, it'll free rev and idle with no issue at all.
The thought is that it might be the MAF sensor being grubby or maybe it is just damaged??? I don't know. Yet to be properly explored.
Does this sound anything like what anyone on here has dealt with? If it is, Maybe some tips on how to deal with it?
I did a search on MAF sensor on here but not much comes up... at all...
REI600
Leaving Skid Marks
- Location
- Rockhampton, QLD
- First Name
- Ian
- Drive
- 1998 Legnum VR4 5 spd Manual
1996 Mazda Proceed 4x4
Project - Datsun 1600 Turbo rotary conv.
- Thread starter
- #24
I'd be very interested in knowing what you guys have done in regards to fixing MAF issues. I [THINK] that might be AN issue with mine. If there is a solution that works more the majority, I'd be keen as mustard to know about it.
My issue is that the car, usually on start-up when colder, the car will idle perfect and free rev fine but, when the throttle is pressed in gear, even a little, the ignition is cut and drops out all revs.
Let out the throttle again and the revs pick back up and idle returns to normal.
My issue is that the car, usually on start-up when colder, the car will idle perfect and free rev fine but, when the throttle is pressed in gear, even a little, the ignition is cut and drops out all revs.
Let out the throttle again and the revs pick back up and idle returns to normal.
REI600
Leaving Skid Marks
- Location
- Rockhampton, QLD
- First Name
- Ian
- Drive
- 1998 Legnum VR4 5 spd Manual
1996 Mazda Proceed 4x4
Project - Datsun 1600 Turbo rotary conv.
- Thread starter
- #26
As in first starts in the morning I think. It is not an "ever time" issue either I think.
It has only happened to me once but it is something known to the previous owner and this was what he told me.
It has only happened to me once but it is something known to the previous owner and this was what he told me.
I have the same issue. I replaced MAF, throttle body and tps but it still happens, mainly on cold mornings.
REI600
Leaving Skid Marks
- Location
- Rockhampton, QLD
- First Name
- Ian
- Drive
- 1998 Legnum VR4 5 spd Manual
1996 Mazda Proceed 4x4
Project - Datsun 1600 Turbo rotary conv.
- Thread starter
- #28
oh ok... shit! I would have thought replacing at least two of those three things would have solved the issue... not as simple as I first though obviously.
Love to know if people have found a solution to this issue.
The 'solution' is: If it happens, just give the airbox a few "love taps" and it should come good.
Love to know if people have found a solution to this issue.
The 'solution' is: If it happens, just give the airbox a few "love taps" and it should come good.
REI600
Leaving Skid Marks
- Location
- Rockhampton, QLD
- First Name
- Ian
- Drive
- 1998 Legnum VR4 5 spd Manual
1996 Mazda Proceed 4x4
Project - Datsun 1600 Turbo rotary conv.
- Thread starter
- #31
idle set at around 600-800 rpm. high or lower depending on engine warmth.
A/C off.
How do i perform a turbo leak check?
A/C off.
How do i perform a turbo leak check?
REI600
Leaving Skid Marks
- Location
- Rockhampton, QLD
- First Name
- Ian
- Drive
- 1998 Legnum VR4 5 spd Manual
1996 Mazda Proceed 4x4
Project - Datsun 1600 Turbo rotary conv.
- Thread starter
- #33
Thanks guys. I will Check it out in the morning. Go get myself a bottle of cleaner and run that through it too.
Cant hurt to give it a clean.
UPDATE
I have watched a few how to create your own "boost leak check setup" but.... one of them (RatchetsAnd Wrenches) pointed out that there are sometimes little hoses that will throw off the readings you can get and make it harder to detect the leak.
So, knowing the "how to create a boost leak tester setup", i'd LOVE some specifics on how to do that test accurately to the 6a13tt engine. Being twin turbo, adds the second snail to deal with along with what is probably a range of other smaller hoses etc that need to be blocked off.
As i dont have an air compressor, i think it might be easier to just take it into a mechanic and have them run the boost leak test for me. i wanna learn but, after buying the vehicle, dont have cash for a compressor.
I have done a little search and apparently, boost leaks are REALLY common with these cars. I dont know if that is going to effect the issues i am having on start and trying to take off gently in 1st gear though..??
Never know i guess.
Thanks for the advice guys. Appreciate it.
Cant hurt to give it a clean.
UPDATE
I have watched a few how to create your own "boost leak check setup" but.... one of them (RatchetsAnd Wrenches) pointed out that there are sometimes little hoses that will throw off the readings you can get and make it harder to detect the leak.
So, knowing the "how to create a boost leak tester setup", i'd LOVE some specifics on how to do that test accurately to the 6a13tt engine. Being twin turbo, adds the second snail to deal with along with what is probably a range of other smaller hoses etc that need to be blocked off.
As i dont have an air compressor, i think it might be easier to just take it into a mechanic and have them run the boost leak test for me. i wanna learn but, after buying the vehicle, dont have cash for a compressor.
I have done a little search and apparently, boost leaks are REALLY common with these cars. I dont know if that is going to effect the issues i am having on start and trying to take off gently in 1st gear though..??
Never know i guess.
Thanks for the advice guys. Appreciate it.
REI600
Leaving Skid Marks
- Location
- Rockhampton, QLD
- First Name
- Ian
- Drive
- 1998 Legnum VR4 5 spd Manual
1996 Mazda Proceed 4x4
Project - Datsun 1600 Turbo rotary conv.
- Thread starter
- #34
So, Another update.
I just took the MAF sensor out of the car and gave the whle thing a good cleaning. Let it dry and sit for a while and.... it didnt change a thing. Still has the same issue.
About the boost leak check -- How is that going to affect the car when i am taking off, on level ground? The car is not making boost at 1500... Not against doing a test i just dont understand leaking boost will completely muck up how the car drives out of my driveway....
Please, help me understand.
I just took the MAF sensor out of the car and gave the whle thing a good cleaning. Let it dry and sit for a while and.... it didnt change a thing. Still has the same issue.
About the boost leak check -- How is that going to affect the car when i am taking off, on level ground? The car is not making boost at 1500... Not against doing a test i just dont understand leaking boost will completely muck up how the car drives out of my driveway....
Please, help me understand.
It's not just boost that leaks, under vacuum I.e. Off boost including idle conditions will be messed up if there is a leak.
REI600
Leaving Skid Marks
- Location
- Rockhampton, QLD
- First Name
- Ian
- Drive
- 1998 Legnum VR4 5 spd Manual
1996 Mazda Proceed 4x4
Project - Datsun 1600 Turbo rotary conv.
- Thread starter
- #37
Dice -- Have you done the boost leak check? As you have the same issues and have already bought replacement parts with no success...?? I am looking to you to find out what, if anything, worked.
Phil -- Thanks for the idea mate. It sounds like another diagnostic test that can be done. I just read a little about it's function it seems like it might influence.
I will have to see if i can book the car in somewhere to have the boost leak test done. All are "relatively" cheaper options... Keep trying I guess. This is a pretty serious issue in regards to the car's driveability so... want to get it sorted.
Thanks guys.
Phil -- Thanks for the idea mate. It sounds like another diagnostic test that can be done. I just read a little about it's function it seems like it might influence.
I will have to see if i can book the car in somewhere to have the boost leak test done. All are "relatively" cheaper options... Keep trying I guess. This is a pretty serious issue in regards to the car's driveability so... want to get it sorted.
Thanks guys.
Have a read of these. I've posted some helpful stuff in them.
http://www.ozvr4.com/threads/test-tps-sensor.12285/
http://www.ozvr4.com/threads/problem-high-idle-and-intake-air-temp-error-code-logged-code-13.10435/
In my experience, if you're getting high idle when cold, your stepper is working. Off idle issues in gear sound like tps/vac leak/something else possibly. Test ISCV and tps to rule those out.
Or...take it to a mechanic with a clue.
http://www.ozvr4.com/threads/test-tps-sensor.12285/
http://www.ozvr4.com/threads/problem-high-idle-and-intake-air-temp-error-code-logged-code-13.10435/
In my experience, if you're getting high idle when cold, your stepper is working. Off idle issues in gear sound like tps/vac leak/something else possibly. Test ISCV and tps to rule those out.
Or...take it to a mechanic with a clue.
I haven't done a boost leak test. I've checked all the obvious hoses and re-tightened. I changed the ISC (stepper motor) when I swapped throttle body. I might reset the ECU again, even though I have done it before.
It's a tough one to diagnose when it only happens *sometimes* and only when cold. Once the car is half heated up it won't do it for the rest of the day.