IFS Relocation/Removal

[Guest]

well following on from my new cam covers...

http://www.ozvr4.com/forums/showthread.php?t=129&page=6

im now wanting to remove the IFS (ignition failure sensor)
as per this guide...

http://www.aggravatedinsanity.com/Ben/3Gay/HOW_TOs/IFS_Removal.jpg


now this works and the car starts as it should,

BUT...
the rev counter no longer functions (at all)...


well you say, just move the IFS and leave it plugged in..

yeah i did that and it died today... and had no rev counter,
still drove fine thou,
luckily i have a spare IFS, pluged that in and all back to normal,

ideally i'd like to remove it completely and have a working rev counter,
any one have any ideas on how to make it work??

 

[leebutts]

Second link doesn't work for me?

 

[Guest]

woops, fixed.

 

[Guest]

wow wire diagrams and me dont mix, i cant work out those silly lines for shit.lol
good luck tho.. and where is the IFS located? do you have pics?

 

[Guest]

its the little back thing bolted on the top edge of the front cam cover.
(you cant see it with the engine cover in place)

 

[Guest]

When I installed my EBC it took a feed from the rev counter and the needle wouldn't move either. After speaking to turbosmart they said that the ebc was pulling to much of the signal so there was nothing left for the rev counter. They advised installing a resistor to reduce the power being drawn by the ebc. This sorted the problem and I just wondered with taking out the IFS that something else is pulling most of the signal and a resistor is needed in the same way to ensure it reaches the rev counter

 

[Guest]

Excuse my lack of knowledge but what function does the IFS perform??

 

[bradc]

ignition failure sensor

 

[Guest]

I will have my stand alone install pretty soon...

That thing will not be on my engine anymore.... =)

I had bad experience once with IFS. My engine wont start. There was no fire from the plug. And it took me almost a month to figured out the problem was the IFS.....and another 2 weeks to order it from singapore... =(

 

[SiliconAngel]

Carsten is our IFS exactly the same as the one you linked to? If so, my analysis suggests that the thing causing your problems is an unexpected lack of voltage from the sensor communication (output) wire. I think Pete's suggestion sounds like its on the money, but if not if you can find out what the expected voltage range is from that wire (for example it may fluctuate from 1V to 2V, 2V being ignition failure and 1V being normal) you can just spoof it.

I'd start with the 6A13 NA workshop manual and try to find a reference to the normal operating voltage range from the IFS, but failing that stick a multimeter onto the outgoing signal wire while your car is running and see what its outputting.

 

[Guest]

AFIAK its the same?

your cant read the voltage on it on a multimeter,
its like a clock signal apparently, 12v . 0v . 12v . 0v etc..
you need an oscilloscope to view it

 

[Guest]

i know whats missing,

the constant pluse generation output on pin 2,
this whole cercuit is removed when the IFS is removed,

wonder how to fix that?!

 

[mookers]

Stoopid question time.

Why is it better to remove the IFS? Surely it's there for a reason?

 

[smohekey]

It detects ignition via shockwaves through the cam cover, right? If that's the case, you should be able to mount it somewhere else out of view.

 

[SiliconAngel]

your cant read the voltage on it on a multimeter,
its like a clock signal apparently, 12v . 0v . 12v . 0v etc..
you need an oscilloscope to view it

Yep good point, didn't think of that.

i know whats missing,

the constant pluse generation output on pin 2,
this whole circuit is removed when the IFS is removed,

wonder how to fix that?!

You need to replicate it's ordinary output. It will be possible to build a circuit to do this, but you know what I'd do? Just relocate the damn thing under the dash Well, as long as yours isn't faulty, of course.

If you want to design a circuit for it, maybe ask Chris (Audio_Express) or Mark (Mrk_VR4) to point you in the right direction.

Stoopid question time.

No such thing

Why is it better to remove the IFS? Surely it's there for a reason?

Yes it is, but if you've got an aftermarket ECU replacement it's utterly useless and could potentially cause problems if it faults. They're also known to be dicky even on stock vehicles, and I'm sure it's infinitely cheaper to remove it than replace it.

 

[steveP]

Digging up a very old thread. Anyone tried or had success with removing the IFS? I've had enough of its shitty design. Blown 3 and I'm sick of throwing money down the drain. I installed a fuse on the power feed to hopefully prevent it blowing, but a 10a fuse was too strong and it still blew, again.

Car runs fine with it bypassed (pin 3 and 4), just need to get a rev signal.

 

[naughtika]

in order to get rev signal, i think you can get it from the crank signal, just now sure if how it'll affect the ignition signal though.

COP kit v1 and v2 have coil feedback which in terms can be used for the tacho