Just had my suspension checked - few issues - need help

cittris

cittris

Leaving Skid Marks
Location
VIC
First Name
Tristian
Drive
2001 Tarmac Black Evo VII
Hi guise!

Just had Pedders check out my suspension.

Few issues.

Lower Ball Joint - LH - F+R, RH - Front ball have movement
Lower Control Arm & inner Bushes - Bushes Seperating
Front Sway Bar & Bushes - D Bushes Worn, requires replacement
Steering Gear - Rack has internal movement RH Bad
Trailing Lower - Bushes Seperated/Split
Rear Sway Bar - D Bushes Worn, requires replacement
C.V. Joints - Tailshaft center bearings u/s F+R
Rotors & Pads - rear pads low at 1.5mm

With regards to the steering rack he said if pull on it it moves slightly.

I got it checked out as i have knocking coming from the front and rear.

Thoughts? Should i be concerned? What should should i replace?

Thanks guys
Tristian
 
Lower Ball Joint - Replace
Lower Control Arm & inner Bushes - Ignore and do latter
Front Sway Bar & Bushes - Ignore and do latter
Steering Gear - Ignore and do latter
Trailing Lower - Ignore and do latter
Rear Sway Bar - Ignore and do latter
C.V. Joints - Tailshaft center bearings u/s F+R - Need more info, what's u/s mean? If it's under side, I think they're just quoting you for EVERYTHING man.
Rotors & Pads - Ignore and do latter

All the bushes and stuff we can do one weekend Tris, for allot less than these pricks will charge. As for your steering rack, you'll need to have it rebuilt and that's like 1k for the work and man hours. The tailshaft bearing is an interesting one and may be causing your knocking sound from the rear, but it's a little iffy with out more info.
 
go to atleast one more place to get them to check it, i saw on the news about 6 months ago that some big companys lie about a ton of stuff, im not going to name any places cos i dont want to get in trouble by this forum or pedders, but i would strongly suggest going elsewhere also......
and from what steve and pete said that should be pushing some alarm buttons...
 
^ +1

When you get such a large list of stuff, seek a 2nd opinion with another suspension specialist. They might be correct but I would just confirm that before dropping $$$.
 
Those "$20 billion point checks" nearly always equal "what to change if money was no object" not "what needs servicing".
Whether suspension, safety, electrical, battery health or whatever.
 
well I'm fairly confident that they aren't just pointing out frivolous things or making things up to try and cash in because I went in with a mate with an 05 rex and they didn't find anything wrong, which leads me to beleive that they aren't just "making it up".

but it does make sense to get a second opinion before doshing out the $$
 
I'd say get a 2nd opinion from another reputable workshop..

with the following things.. my replies are in green..

Lower Ball Joint - LH - F+R, RH - Front ball have movement - typical with our suspenion (7G, & 8G as well as the USDM Eclipse 2G) - for the front, try and get that replaced, just a reminder that there was a recall that Mitsubishi announced awhile back and maybe your car didnt get done.. also if you're gonna replace the front lower control arm you eliminate the issue below..
Lower Control Arm & inner Bushes - Bushes Seperating - read above..
Front Sway Bar & Bushes - D Bushes Worn, requires replacement - typical with rubber (car age + wear & Tear)
Steering Gear - Rack has internal movement RH Bad - its the inner tie rod, get both sides replaced as well the tie rod end - if you only do one side there's a possibility that the other side will give out.. also you'll have to get an alignment anyway after the install - kill 2 birds with 1 rock..
Trailing Lower - Bushes Seperated/Split - replace with polyurethane bushin from superpro if you can get a set..
Rear Sway Bar - D Bushes Worn, requires replacement - same with the reply for the fronts
C.V. Joints - Tailshaft center bearings u/s F+R - if you can remove all the axles.. cost shouldn't be much - bring it to a CV joint specialist I think it'll cost $30 per CV boot (times that by 8 since there are 2 per axle I think) and if they find considerable amount of play.. they'd should inform you first before they action on it.. a recondition should only cost around $50 per joint..
Rotors & Pads - rear pads low at 1.5mm - double check if its actually 1.5mm left, you'll chew that up in a short period specially if the pads have soft compound and if you brake hard most of the time.. safety first.. I'd probably do this first before all the things above..
 
who closed my thread! lol

thanks for the replies peeps! ill read them all soon
 
Thank-you everyone for the input!
Christian and Steve thanks a lot for the detail!

where do i go to check if my was recalled?
I am going to TECHSPORT next week to get my brembos put on so at the same time i will get them to look at the list and see what they think.

Regarding the Lower ball joint, control arm and steering rack. Is this what i need?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=130348564040&viewitem=

ill enquire about the bushes for the trailing lower. The swaybar D bushes. Where can i get those. i will need them for the front as the swaybar i bought does not come with it?

Thank-you again everyone.
The guy from pedders told me that its really not that bad, but i have a really bad image of my car at the now so i want to get it done :D
poor car
 
Tris.. that ebay link you posted.. you've listed what you need for the front..

as for the 'D' bushing for the swaybars (front & rear) you can hit up Kev (VR4Rocket) and for other bushing..
 
yeah i know those are that parts i need just wanted to make sure they are suitable for my car.

no worries, Im in discussion with Kev re swaybars anyway so i will bring up bushings.
 
Pedders = rip-off merchants , and they make out your car is going to fall to bits..you probably really only need 1/4 of those things done asap..
 
I'll be adding myself to this list of bits to fix.

Pete, saw how your front controls arms were shot from the last wash meet, thanks for bringing those bits in.

Tristian... group buy?
 
Pedders said the exact same thing to me, saying that it was an imperative that I get it all done immediately as the car was unstable and unsafe. I took it to my local mech and he gave me a list about half the size and mentioned that none of the things desperately needed changing and just replace the listed parts when I could.
I'd go and get a second opinion.
 
Pedders said the exact same thing to me, saying that it was an imperative that I get it all done immediately as the car was unstable and unsafe. I took it to my local mech and he gave me a list about half the size and mentioned that none of the things desperately needed changing and just replace the listed parts when I could.
I'd go and get a second opinion, Pedders might be right but worth getting another check before dropping heaps of cash.
 
I remember my dad told me a friend of his just bought a new falcon xr6 (the first ones that came out with the turbo) he took it to pedders to get a quote getting it lowered.. he was quoted $3500, we asked to see the quote, it showed in there to replace all bushing with polyurethane and replace the shockies and springs with pedders..

we were thinking WHAT?!?

my dad recommended on taking it to another workshop.. it cost him less than $500 fitted with Kings springs lowered set..
 
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