Mamba High Flowed TD03 Adventure

ersanalamin

Leaving Skid Marks
Location
Indonesia
First Name
Ersan Al Amin
Drive
Year 2000 EA5A => FL EC5A
So a few months ago i bought these Mamba turbos that popped up on Ebay out of nowhere.

They have a machined out Compressor housing to allow for a much larger inducer (sizing is in the listing) and have a stock wheel at the back, which many have pointed out as a bit of a concern, but I'm deciding to push forward with it anyway. Larger turbine wheels which have now become available here, I messaged the seller and they said they wont be included in the rebuilt turbos, they will always just be an option to buy separate and get the turbo assembled and re-balanced yourself.

Buying them:
Ebay, so nice and easy, they come from china so it took about a month for them to actually be dispatched, but arrived 2 days after DHL picked them up which is pretty wild.

Fitting them:
It was a solid afternoon job to fit them, I think the lesson was not to have friends help. For the front its best to remove the Front pipes, Y-pipe, radiator, inlet pipe, heat shields, waste-gate actuator, and any of the other intake stuff that gets in the way of whatever tools you have. once that is gone there are just a three bolts holding the turbo onto the header, they will likely be seized because of the amount of heat cycles they see, so hose them down with WD-40 or something and let it really sink in before attacking it with breaker, i was lucky and nothing snapped. You will 100% need a rattle gun to get the bolts off of the little dump pipe on the back of the turbos, new gaskets are a must too, mine all came apart as soon as there was no pressure on them. As for the rear, after nearly rounding the first heat shield bolt I attacked, I went for the option of undoing the V-band the holds the turbo together and pulling off the core and compressor cover while leaving the turbine housing in place, saved me decades of heartache and I suggest you do it too. The only thing that is tricky is getting the orientation of the turbo correct when putting the new core back in place, i found the easiest way was to get the V-band on and secure, then attaching the waste-gate to get it close to aligned, you can then leave the nut on the V-band a little loose so you can still spin the core until all the oil and coolant lines find their thread easily.

Total job time was about 6 hours, 4 ciders and minimal swearing.

Old Vs New


Rear with Turbine housing still in palce



Rear with new turbo in place



First drive:
Gosh you can actually hear the turbos spooling! It feels like it is coming on boost quicker, but it could be the sensory overload of the fun new sounds and the fact it was one of the first nice sunny days in a few months so I had the windows down and i was generally happy that it started and ran and their was nothing nasty dripping down. I didn't want to take any risks so I turned my EBC down to about 10psi, car is driving nicely, coming on boost smoothly, ultimate test is when it gets tuned at TME in a weeks time.

Tuning:
Not quite what we expected. waiting on Steve's feedback.


Current Modifications:
COP Kit
3SX fuel loop
Walbro 255
1000cc Injectors
RPW front pipes
100 cell ebay cat
Jasma approved catback (weird just under 3" japanese size)
Varex cannon
Turbosmart Bov
Grimspeed 3 Port
some Ebay spec 600x300x76 Inter-cooler

Stock balloon pipes
Stock "dumps"

With all of your supporting mods, i admit ur dyno result is dissapointing. I use 10T wheel + stock turbin and 14 psi spring option on internal forge motorsport adjustbale wastegate. I use HKS EVC 5 boost controller. I saw the car struggle to boost beyond 9.5 psi with hks evc in learning mode/mechanical boost (hence i try to to have turbo manifold ported to minimize back pressure in my next mods), and was 4.5 psi when i use stock turbo + wastegate. mechanically speaking, stable boost comes at 8.5 psi. let say boost target is 22 psi to reach 450 hp, so correction factor must be at least 132% with my current ported turbo. We might jump to conclusion too soon, since the car need more fine tune because since you using 14T wheel i expect your result must be better than me

Just like simon you should swap the wastegate as well

BTW any resut between before and after turbo swap?

Well i might swap the turbo with twin garret gt258, wish i have time and money
 

veegeeta

Leaving Skid Marks
Lifetime Member
Location
qld
First Name
shane
Drive
fto with 6A13TT & bf xr6 turbo
Something has to be not right with the engine as basically same numbers as stock turbos . and I thought that it would run more boost pressure now with new tubs my old ones are at 20psi. Would be nice to see what they can really do. Would like to see someone sitting around the 400hp with these since they are rated to 450hp.
 

AKKO

2 AYC Bars
Lifetime Member
Location
WA
First Name
Chris
Drive
1998 Galant VR4 Type-V (Facelift)
Damn, those results are similarly disappointing to my cam adventures. I was at 200kW atw with stock turbos before hand. :-/
 

veegeeta

Leaving Skid Marks
Lifetime Member
Location
qld
First Name
shane
Drive
fto with 6A13TT & bf xr6 turbo
400 would never happen, 350 max as, that 450 will be flywheel
Right parts ,right engineer ,and a lot of these $$$$$$ anything is possible. If they can get 1000hp from a 4 cyl I'm sure we could get 400 or more from a 6cyl.
 

pretzil

2 AYC Bars
Location
Qld
First Name
Rick
Drive
Legnum VR4
I thought that it would run more boost pressure now with new tubs my old ones are at 20psi. Would be nice to see what they can really.
When are your old turbos at 20psi? For how long? These are at 16 but all the way through to redline.
Bigger turbos don't necessarily run more boost, or even need to, they flow more air at the same boost.
That's why you hear of cars with massive turbos making massive power with only 8psi etc.
 

veegeeta

Leaving Skid Marks
Lifetime Member
Location
qld
First Name
shane
Drive
fto with 6A13TT & bf xr6 turbo
When are your old turbos at 20psi? For how long? These are at 16 but all the way through to redline.
Bigger turbos don't necessarily run more boost, or even need to, they flow more air at the same boost.
That's why you hear of cars with massive turbos making massive power with only 8psi etc.
I realise about bigger turbos and low boost good numbers and I also know they can run more hence my mates skyline at 35psi boost 1000hp what I want to know is how far we can actually get out of them. My car runs 18 to 20 psi every time I put my foot down a little. I rape them cause I like high boost and I haven't broken 1 yet after 11 years think 8 years on high boost. If a motor is built right to handle high boost and you can get fuel and air and right timming to it why not wind them up.
 

pretzil

2 AYC Bars
Location
Qld
First Name
Rick
Drive
Legnum VR4
Your boost is 20psi whenever you put your foot down a little, but then what happens? Does it hold?
At peak power these turbos have more boost than the stock ones.
 

veegeeta

Leaving Skid Marks
Lifetime Member
Location
qld
First Name
shane
Drive
fto with 6A13TT & bf xr6 turbo
Your boost is 20psi whenever you put your foot down a little, but then what happens? Does it hold?
At peak power these turbos have more boost than the stock ones.
No it doesn't hold that would be the whole point in upgrading I would still expect 20psi from the high flowed ones cause then you could really compare on how they are. And see how much difference between the graphs then. If we knew what his dyno and boost pressure was before the upgrade we would have a better idea.
 

Gav

1 AYC Bar
Lifetime Member
Location
Sydney
First Name
Gav
Drive
Galant
lets see how these turbos go when the next person gets there car tunes. i think there 2-3 people in aus right now with these turbos. hopefully they have a better outcome
 

Harleyd123

Choo Choo
Location
Melbourne
First Name
Dan
Drive
2000 Legnum VR4
Im currently on the lookout for a new motor, hopefully one pops up in vic, if not ill get a thrashed one and do a stock internals rebuild with head-studs and possibly cams, then see how it goes, im hopeful with fixing the few identified issues ill still crack 200kw on this one when steve is next down, but who knows how long it will last
 

veegeeta

Leaving Skid Marks
Lifetime Member
Location
qld
First Name
shane
Drive
fto with 6A13TT & bf xr6 turbo
Im currently on the lookout for a new motor, hopefully one pops up in vic, if not ill get a thrashed one and do a stock internals rebuild with head-studs and possibly cams, then see how it goes, im hopeful with fixing the few identified issues ill still crack 200kw on this one when steve is next down, but who knows how long it will last
What issues did you find with your current motor that could beholding it back?
 

Harleyd123

Choo Choo
Location
Melbourne
First Name
Dan
Drive
2000 Legnum VR4
Getting a fair bit of smoke under load, suspected valve stem seals and/or rings, engine has unknown KMS, I put its second set of 3mm lifters in so who knows. I'm gonna fix whatever I can and compression test first and see how she goes, but thinking a backup may be a good idea.
 

MadLuka

Idling at the Lights
Lifetime Member
Location
England
First Name
Andrew
Drive
99 FL Legnum VR4
Getting a fair bit of smoke under load, suspected valve stem seals and/or rings, engine has unknown KMS, I put its second set of 3mm lifters in so who knows. I'm gonna fix whatever I can and compression test first and see how she goes, but thinking a backup may be a good idea.

Resurrecting an old thread, but did you get any further with your turbos and inspection of the condition of the engine?

Andy
 

Kaldek

2 AYC Bars
Location
Melbourne
First Name
Ed
Drive
2000 Legnum VR4 Manual, Ford Territory family runabout, BMW K1300R.
For reference, @TME_Steve sells drop-in turbos that WILL increase your power significantly and are proven.

I know this is resurrecting a dead thread, but someone might come here as a result of a Google search for "Mamba turbo".
 
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