Need a Hand

[BCX]

Few generalised tips that i would do:

-Dont just earth it at any old bolt, try and find a factory earth point, or at least a wire that earths to a factory earth point. Our cars run an alloy radiator, and if there is residual current due to poor earthing, you'll corrode it out. Also earthing correctly will prevent problems later (this is true for head units and alternator noise). A guage isnt gonna create too many problems, but always good idea to get into good habits.

-Dont pull power straight from the ign switch, try and find a circuit that is fused and take power from that (be sure to check that the circuit your taking power from can handle it). If you absolutely have to take power from somewhere unfused, put an inline fuse.

-IMO, try to solder and insulate whenever possible. Heatshrink makes for neat insulation/join.

-As stevep said, best to take power from somewhere easy to get to like behind the radio. very easy to extend wires, just tape them up to prevent chaffing then run/cable tie it out of the way of the pedals, steering etc. Radio, although is switched using ACC is probably a good idea. head unit will never exceed the 5/10A fuse it's got from factory - especially if your not using the internal amp. Plus if it does blow, you're only loosing radio.

-Dont put a bigger fuse in the fusebox just cos you want to pull more current in that curcuit. The wiring in the loom is rated to whatever the fuse value is.

 

[Guest]

Yeah mate they just splice right onto the wires, if you connect it wrong you just unclip and chuck a little tape over the cut.

 

[tails]

Thanks guys. I'll probably end up using either the dimmer or the mirror control as people have done it in the past.

Now I just gotta find someone willing to give me a hand.

 

[Guest]

These are the clips.

 

[Guest]

EBay wire splice tap

 

[tails]

Yeah, I found some good ones called 'posi-tap' but no one sells them in Aus really. I'll pop into a Jaycar on the weekend before I do it.

 

[BCX]

These are the clips.

These should be banned. They are sooo dodgy. Just sayin'

 

[tails]

These should be banned. They are sooo dodgy. Just sayin'

To be honest they'll probably do a better job than my shitty soldering.

 

[Guest]

I tried one before I used it and just connected two off cuts and gave them a.good rip, didn't budge and they still kept a connection.

 

[hozza]

I am an auto elec. When a install is done by the owner of the vehicle with these "scotch clips" i would say about 20% would generally fail.
There are a few reasons why they shouldnt be used.
If its a temporary install or to make sure every thing works prior they are fine.

But i strongly advise against them.

 

[Guest]

Thanks hozza, good to hear from someone with experience.Hopefully the ones I used will survive,I taped them afterwards too lol. Next wiring job I may give them a miss.

 

[tails]

I am an auto elec. When a install is done by the owner of the vehicle with these "scotch clips" i would say about 20% would generally fail.
There are a few reasons why they shouldnt be used.
If its a temporary install or to make sure every thing works prior they are fine.

But i strongly advise against them.

May I ask why? For such low currents (such as the light bulb behind a boost gauge) I can't see an issue. Do they shake loose or something? I wouldn't use them for installing a stereo or an alarm system though.

 

[Guest]

That was my thinking, only light gauge and doesn't move around much, especially when taped together. Wouldnt use them for anything major.

 

[naughtika]

i used them before, 50% they dont work because of the wrong size/spec..

from memory red is for th 24-20ga blue is for th 20-18ga and the yellow is for the 18-16ga

 

[Guest]

yeah mine said on there what size they were for.

 

[tails]

Gave it a go tonight using the clips onto the wires coming out of the cold spec plug. They were a bit shit. Maybe I just bought shit ones. If positaps were available in Australia I'd be all over them. I'm going to solder these wires tomorrow. I'm more confident with these as if I stuff it up there's no loss as they're not connected to anything. If worse comes to worst I can just cut them and retry.

 

[vr4cobra]

Solder and heat shrink is the best way to go. I have done a fair bit of auto elec work and thats deff the best way to do it if you want to ensure they stay connected and to ensure they dont short out on anything else.

 

[tails]

Got it done.

[Image not found]

I ended up just tapping into the spare cold spec plug. Much easier to reach too. Could solder it while sitting in the drivers seat!

I'm fairly sure it's accurate, idles at -20, when cruising at about 1500 - 2000rpm it sits at -10. When braking it'll go down to about -23ish when giving it a bit of stick it tends to stay between 5 and 10psi. It never went above 10psi. Which sounds pretty much stock to me.

Stoked!

 

[ttgvr4]

Similar to mine, should place it on column so it's out of sight!

 

[tails]

I didn't want anything blocking the dials (column) or blocking the windscreen (on the pillar), I think both can be defected. Where it is now sits below the windscreen line so it should be fine.