Problem: High idle and Intake air temp error code logged (code 13)

[Nitephyre]

My issue is kind of the opposite of the one this thread is dedicated to. My problem is when I initially start the car it will cough and splutter for 3 or 4 seconds, or sometimes stall. After the spluttering is finished, idle returns to normal. If I decide to drive the car immediately for the first few minutes it is very sluggish and hesitant to accelerate. Once warm, the car seems to be fine. If I have driven the car for 10 minutes or so, turn it off and start it again there will be no issue, however if i leave it for a few hours (say 4 or 5) the problem will be back again. The longer I leave it, the worse it is usually. <snip>

I have this issue as well but can't place it. I've bought a multimeter to test some stuff, but even though it's irritating I haven't bothered trying too hard to fix it.

 

[VOLK]

Slackers! It's a 10 minute job to test the idle solenoid coils. Might also be worthwhile getting a vacuum tester off ebay, $25 delivered for this one. Not quite sure how much vacuum is healthy though?

 

[fieldy107]

I managed to get my idle up using the screw on the throttle body, but it's still hunts around like crazy. I can hear a loud hissing that seems to be coming from my fuel rail - I wonder if these 2 problems are connected. I plan to get injector seals, plug seals, rocker cover gaskets etc all done when I find some money, if problems persist I'll start looking at other stuff.

 

[VOLK]

Boost leak tester should help you find leaks too...

Found this handy site too: http://www.vfaq.com/mods/wayback/BradBauer/engine/surge.html

 

[TME_Steve]

hissing = leaks....

 

[VOLK]

Shtoivin! Know if theres a method to put the ISC into "basic step" as per:

When the ECU is placed in "basic idle speed adjustment mode", by grounding the ignition timing adjustment terminal and the selected terminal in the diagnostic connector, the ISC servo is adjusted to the preset warm-idle position

Via either grounding a pin or through evoscan/other software?

 

[Danners]

Guys, this may be a really stupid question... i've found boost leak testers online that charge the system so you can listen for leaks, but i've also found vacuum testers that I assume you plug into your vacuum lines to try and find the drop in pressure while the engine is running

Will both of these find the same fault, or do I require one more than the other one? I was thinking the boost leak tester would be easier as I can just trace the hissing noise.

 

[VOLK]

Personally I'd get the leak tester first, dual purpose. Otherwise, if you've got the funds, both?

 

[eddyvr4]

The other very simple test is to start the car cold with the ISC unplugged. see how it idles. should idle low or struggle to idle at all. stop engine
plug the ISC connector back in, then start engine. the idle should be higher

if there is no difference the ISC is stuffed/jammed, or there is a problem in the ISC loom. with my car one of the wires to the ISC was intermittenly shorting to ground. miracle i ever found it. i included a pic of where on the other 'idle hanging' thread.

spray some water/detergent on the front bank of injectors when doing your boost leak test and look for bubbling, that was how i found my leaky injecotr seals. i couldnt get to the rear ones to test but just replaced the lot.

 

[Danners]

OK, so I finally got around to testing the ISC coils.

Results below

Pins 1&2

Pins 5&6

The instructions I was following said resistance should be 28-33. Is my ISC faulty?

 

[sharky]

Hey Dan, did you short the meter probes together to check if you have an offset reading? Subtract the meter reading from the offset to give you true reading. I think the coils of the new ISC with black cover should read around 40 ohms at 20deg.C. Your one is probably ok.

 

[VOLK]

That's fine, my OEM reads similar. The new one was 40Ω across all coils.