Quote on lifters - $990

dimi_108

Leaving Skid Marks
Location
Strathfield, New South Wales
First Name
Dimi
Drive
NSX/Magna/M5
As the title explains, i need new lifters. I was quoted by Meek Automotive for $990 including labour ($450) and gasket seal change.
I've searched and looked at a few lifter threads on here.

For now, I'm looking for the best temporary fix to quieten them down. I've added 20-50 oil, and they're still ticking. It's really starting to shit me.

Anyhow, is this price a bit over the top? Or is this what you guys have paid too? Are there any temporary fixes for this that you guys can recommend?
 
G

Guest

Unregistered
you're paying 540 for the lifters for 24 that is around $22 which is a fair price labour seems steep. at $80/hr thats 5 hrs work and i cant see it taking that long
 

dimi_108

Leaving Skid Marks
Location
Strathfield, New South Wales
First Name
Dimi
Drive
NSX/Magna/M5
The lifters are $360 for 24 but he also said he won't do it unless i change the gasket too so that's another $180 plus $450 for the labour charge so a grand total of $990
I said, $450 for labour is a bit steep and they said "it's a V6... you can just shop around and see what other quotes you get if you like". Geeze :cool:
 

matchtheclown

Time p33nt
Location
nsw
First Name
hugh
Drive
99 VR-4 Type S Man
There is that lifter bleed procedure you could try it's on here somewhere try searching for it.

Or someone real helpful who know's what to search for will point you to it.

Did someone mention having a lifter removal tool? I would have a dig at it myself personally... but first try the bleed procedure it works quite well it seems.
 

dimi_108

Leaving Skid Marks
Location
Strathfield, New South Wales
First Name
Dimi
Drive
NSX/Magna/M5
Thanks guys. I've just spoken to Mark from Hills Motorsport (where Jase from HPI has his car at) and they've got a bottle of this stuff they said that quietens down 8 out of 10 VR-4's they've had there. It's $22 a bottle and i basically add it to the engine while it's warm, drain all the oil, replace the oil filter and oil and it'll make it quiet. It's worth a try and they swear by it so there's some hope for now, until i'm ready to replace the lifters :D
I'll try it out on Thursday and report back.
 

whiteleg

Leaving Skid Marks
Location
QLD
First Name
Matt
Drive
98 Legnum
Dimi my lifters are quiet now after I added some Nulon lifter free($12), ran on that for about 1000km then used some Subaru Upper Engine Cleaner ($18) then did an oil change. I used Mobil1 0-40 and added some roil gold. After about 2000km I haven't heard from them again. This will only work if they are dirty not damaged, if they are damaged they will need to be replaced.
 

Hotwire

1 AYC Bar
Premium Member
Location
South Australia
First Name
Lee
Drive
97 COTY
First of all, 20-50 is WAY to thick!

The bottle you refer to sounds like an engine flush (which is a stronger version of the referred to Nulon lifter free) which you can only leave in your engine at idle - so yes get them to do an engine flush, then add a good full synthetic oil, preferably 0-30, or up to 5-40 MAX. Then run for a few hundred kms then do the lifter bleed (search lifter bleed) and see how you go before spending anything on replacing the lifters
 

Hotwire

1 AYC Bar
Premium Member
Location
South Australia
First Name
Lee
Drive
97 COTY
how to bleed the lifters:

LifterBleed.jpg


Which in simple terms:
1) With the engine warm, rev slowly from idle to 3000rpm over a period of 15 seconds.
2) Quickly remove your foot from the throttle, allowing return to idle.
3) Wait 15 seconds (very important to wait)
4) Repeat 1-3 for approximately 30 repetitions or until noise is gone.

I did it and it took ~20 reps to remove the noise, +5 for good measure. So you'll be sitting there for ~15 minutes, BUT it will work if its air in the lifters. Note you should only have to bleed once. If it doesnt work, its not air in the lifters.
 

dimi_108

Leaving Skid Marks
Location
Strathfield, New South Wales
First Name
Dimi
Drive
NSX/Magna/M5
Thanks guys, it's definitely worth a try. Hopefully they're not damaged but if they are, i guess i'm just going to have to bite the bullet, wait until pay day in a week's time and pay for the service :(

First of all, 20-50 is WAY to thick!

Exactly what i thought, but i was told by a mechanic to put 20-50 in to quieten it down.
It's all good, i'll get Hills Motorsport on Thursday to do an engine flush, oil change, filter change and put that lifter stuff they've got. Fingers crossed it'll quieten it down. It's due for a oil and filter change too because it hasn't been changed yet.

When the car was picked up last week, it had no tick tick sound at all. But after the weekend, that's when the ticking started. Weird.
 

SiliconAngel

1 AYC Bar
Location
Perth, WA
First Name
SA, Trevor
Drive
'99 Legnum VR4 Black MT
As already suggested Dimi, that oil is WAY too thick. To be totally honest I'm getting a little annoyed at all the so-called experts telling people to put the wrong oil in these cars.

Don't use mineral oils, always use synthetic. If you want the best oil for your car, use Amsoil 0W30. This is not just simply an opinion pulled out of my proberbial, it's based on a huge amount of research and masses of experience from the guys on CVR4 - there are literally HUNDREDS of VR4 owners in the UK running Amsoil in their cars, don't you think they'd move on to something else if it was better? VERY few mechanics including performance shops in Australia have any experience with Amsoil, so they have no idea how it performs and certainly can't and won't recommend it - in fact, most of them will recommend AGAINST it simply because they've never heard of it. Don't just take their (in this case, uneducated) opinion, do yourself a favour and do some research yourself.

As for lifters, the 100,000km service thread lists a part number for lifters that are $12.90 each from Veale Auto Parts. You'll also find a list of all the compatible models, so if you ring some auto parts suppliers in your area get them to search for lifters for any of those cars and you should find one that fits.

Changing the lifters yourself isn't a difficult job, but I recommend reading up on the procedure on CVR4 before you attempt it.
 

dimi_108

Leaving Skid Marks
Location
Strathfield, New South Wales
First Name
Dimi
Drive
NSX/Magna/M5
Thanks Lee for the lifter bleeding guide (i saw your translation of it in a search last night lol) and Trevor for the informative reply. Yes, i've seen Amsoil before (in your thread) and i would like to use that oil as well. Is there an Australian supplier i can order some from before my service?
I've also got the spreadsheet of the 100,000km service on my desktop so if worse comes to worse and i need to replace the lifters, i'll order them from Veale Autoparts and then most likely pay someone for the labour.

Btw, the gasket seal must be changed too right? Because Meek refused to do the job unless i get the gasket seal changed as well (just checking if it's a necessity).
 

SiliconAngel

1 AYC Bar
Location
Perth, WA
First Name
SA, Trevor
Drive
'99 Legnum VR4 Black MT
Yes Dimi, there are a number of Amsoil distributors - I think I put it in the Amsoil thread, but search is your friend. If you can't find someone in your city, talk to Kath Pavier, as she will ship to anywhere in Oz.

Personally I'd recommend replacing the rocker cover gaskets (and indeed a number of other seals) while you have it off. If you check my Members Ride thread you'll be able to see what I paid for my seals.
 
G

Guest

Unregistered
labour seams fair to me,

considering how much crap has to come off before you can even get access to the rear bank,

it took me 2-3hours to just change the rocker covers and all associated gaskets.
 

bradc

1 AYC Bar
Location
New Zealand
First Name
Brad
Drive
Facelift Manual 400hp VR-4 Legnum
Put 0w30 in it right up to the full mark on the dipstick. Do the bleed procedure and see what happens.

Then add in proma (search for it on here) and you should be fine for the next 5000km or so.

There is no need to change the lifters, they aren't actually faulty as such and they aren't going to blow anything up
 

dimi_108

Leaving Skid Marks
Location
Strathfield, New South Wales
First Name
Dimi
Drive
NSX/Magna/M5
Cheers brad, i'll get Hills Motorsport to do that then, i'll recommend it for them to do on the car.

There is no need to change the lifters, they aren't actually faulty as such and they aren't going to blow anything up

The mechanic at Meek said, the longer i leave the lifters unattended, the more it "stretches" and ruins the cylinders. Is this true? And he also said, "it's best to use solid lifters" Is this true? :rolleyes:
 

mookers

puri puri
Location
Frankston, Melbourne, VIC
First Name
Derek
Drive
CL9 Accord Euro Lux, GE Jazz VTi, Evil Supervillain Chair, Homemade Portable Square Drumkit
Stoopid question time again.

What are the consequences of running long-term with dirty lifters?
What about running damaged lifters?

I have done the bleed thing but I still get clatter at cold startup and even when warm there is one single pesky tappet that won't shut up.
 

bradc

1 AYC Bar
Location
New Zealand
First Name
Brad
Drive
Facelift Manual 400hp VR-4 Legnum
Ultimately it could interfere with timing but I've never heard of it actually happening. Just try what we've advised first of all and see what happens
 
G

Guest

Unregistered
So to do it our self we need:

-24 new lifters (Mitsi new part number for them MD376687) are these 3mm ones? Where is the cheapest place?

-2 new Rocker cover Seals (MD174560) is this right

-Lifter removal tool (how much and where from?)

Anything else. The workshop manual's will be arriving soon!
 
G

Guest

Unregistered
6 spark plug tube seals, and 18 new washer seals,

no special tools needed, a selection of small pry bars and screw drivers will do
 
G

Guest

Unregistered
Thanks for the info, so
x6 spark plug seals MD178940
x18 washer seals MD327253
 
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