Replacing Valve Stem Seals - What did you pay and what else to replace?

Yo_Mang

1 AYC Bar
Location
NSW
First Name
Blake
Drive
2002 Mitsubishi Legnum
Hey guys.


So after putting it off for a while, I think its really time I replaced my valve stem seals.

As they are quite a way in the head, I'm thinking I may as well replace the lifters at the same time, and looking for other suggestions of parts to replace while doing these too.

So for those who have replaced them, what did you pay for parts and labour and where did you get it done!?

And for those who have done it themselves, how hard was the process?

Cheers

Blake
 

jungle

3 AYC Bars
Lifetime Member
Location
QLD
First Name
Simon
Drive
1 PFL & 1 FL Legnum
Did the lot myself, although, i also rebuilt the engine at the same time:LOL:
Valve stem seals are easy to remove and replace although, with the engine in the car it'll be incrementally harder.
Lifters will be a non issue if you're replacing stem seals, just pop them out at the same time.

It will be just your time.
 

AKKO

2 AYC Bars
Lifetime Member
Location
WA
First Name
Chris
Drive
1998 Galant VR4 Type-V (Facelift)
Just don't attempt it the night before a TME dyno day and you'll be sweet :)
 

Yo_Mang

1 AYC Bar
Location
NSW
First Name
Blake
Drive
2002 Mitsubishi Legnum
Thanks for the responses guys.

For those who have done it, what style valve spring removal tool did you use, and will the cams have to come out? I haven't been able to find any pics of underneath the rocker covers of the 6a13tt, but have done similar stuff on SR20 and RB30 engines. I have a car that I can use now as a backup for the next couple of weeks so just waiting to hear back on the stock of some parts I need and I'll try and replace them myself. Also for those who have done it, did you do it as a head on job? Any tips would be greatly appreciated!
 

Nitephyre

Flaccid Member
Lifetime Member
Location
ormeau@gc.qld.au
First Name
Matt :)
Drive
1963 Toyota Lite-Stout & 2007 Toyota Blade Master G
/me is a necromancer.

I'm getting blue smoke on start-up/idle/acceleration after having let the oil get a bit too low. I've just changed the oil, filter & PCV but it hasn't helped. I'm guessing I need a new set of seals and as above, I assume it's smrt to change the lifters at the same time.

Have any of you QLD boys done this yourself and are willing to help? I don't really have the money to pay exorbitant labour costs, buying the parts will hurt as it is :(
 

Cameron McPherson

#Skids4Jesus
Lifetime Member
Location
Brisbane
First Name
Cameron
Drive
1997 White Legnum VR4
2010 50cc Scooter - Daily
Blue smoke under load is turbo seals pretty sure? I used to get white smoke when I let the car sit at idle for a little while because of my dodgy seals, but throttle would always clear it up, was only when the car was warm as well - never on startup.
 

NuffNuff

1 AYC Bar
Lifetime Member
Location
Victoria
First Name
Damian
Drive
GTI, GTI, FL Manual Legnum VR4
/me is a necromancer.

I'm getting blue smoke on start-up/idle/acceleration after having let the oil get a bit too low. I've just changed the oil, filter & PCV but it hasn't helped. I'm guessing I need a new set of seals and as above, I assume it's smrt to change the lifters at the same time.

Have any of you QLD boys done this yourself and are willing to help? I don't really have the money to pay exorbitant labour costs, buying the parts will hurt as it is :(

What oil you using 10w30?
 

AKKO

2 AYC Bars
Lifetime Member
Location
WA
First Name
Chris
Drive
1998 Galant VR4 Type-V (Facelift)
This has me wondering how Dion got on with his... @bogan bob
 

6A13TT TYPE S

3 AYC Bars
Lifetime Member
Location
New Zealand
First Name
Adam
Drive
1999 Legnum VR4 Type S
Cams out. valve springs out to get to the seals.
Ive changed valve springs in 4 or 5 Legnum/Galants now and Its far easier to just remove the engine rather than try do the rear bank exhaust valve springs in situ.
Did it in situ once and never again!. Engine out, changing springs, re assembling engine and putting it all back in the hole as well as getting it running usually takes me a full day. budget an extra hour or so to do stem seals as well.
If your ever planning on upgrading the cams in the future I recommend uprating the valve springs whilst your in there. saves you having to pull the motor out again at a later date. doing the springs before hand means you can just drop in a set of cams without having to change a thing.

This is the Tool I use to remove and re-install the valve springs without removing the cylinder heads.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-HD-Valv...1686969224&pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&vxp=mtr
Its piss easy to use and cheap. just make sure you fill the oil gallerys with rags so you don't drop a collet/valve lock down into the sump!
 

naughtika

OzVR4 Stalker
Location
Brisbane, QLD
First Name
Christian
Drive
'96 Galant VR4, '17 MB A180, '25 Macan GTS
thanks for the info and confirmation of that tool.. been eyeing that for quite a while..
 

Nitephyre

Flaccid Member
Lifetime Member
Location
ormeau@gc.qld.au
First Name
Matt :)
Drive
1963 Toyota Lite-Stout & 2007 Toyota Blade Master G
Oil is the usual 5W-30. It has had white smoke on start-up for a while now, but I wasn't overly worried until I started seeing/smelling the blue. It's been bluing for maybe a month or two I guess as I only really noticed it last week, although have had occasional wafts of burning oil & richness since Christmas I think.

If it's turbo seals, what's the deal with that... is it expensive and painful? :(
 

whats_doing

QLD Events Manager
Location
QLD
First Name
Sam
Drive
98 PFL Black Legnum - SOLD
MY15 Hyosung GT650R
Upgrade to td04's. :-p

I just a bought second hand one from BJ when my rear one went.
 

bogan bob

1 AYC Bar
Location
WA
First Name
Dion
Drive
'15 Amarok
This has me wondering how Dion got on with his... @bogan bob

Jon did a very good cash price for me ;) I recall paying about 200 for the seals a year or so ago (from Jon)

Jon is still running mine to burn the oil out of the exhaust to see if the valve stem seals were the only problem. There's a slight possibility a oil seal in one of the turbos could also be busted but that's relatively easy to fix
 

Yo_Mang

1 AYC Bar
Location
NSW
First Name
Blake
Drive
2002 Mitsubishi Legnum
thanks for the info and confirmation of that tool.. been eyeing that for quite a while..

The tool I used to remove and reinstall my valve springs was the Blue Point GA317

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=all&item_ID=645403&group_ID=675633

My local SnapOn dealer had one in stock for around $70 from memory. Happy to lend it to any reputable member to use if they are happy to pay for shipping and return it after use. Might interest some people seeing as it's a tool that you will probably only need to use once
 

nathanp

Idling at the Lights
Location
NSW
First Name
Nathan
Drive
Mitsubishi 380
The tool I used to remove and reinstall my valve springs was the Blue Point GA317

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=all&item_ID=645403&group_ID=675633

My local SnapOn dealer had one in stock for around $70 from memory. Happy to lend it to any reputable member to use if they are happy to pay for shipping and return it after use. Might interest some people seeing as it's a tool that you will probably only need to use once

Sorry to dig up an old thread, but when you done this job did you replace the seals with the engine in the car?? Did the tool work ok on the rear bank??
 
Top Bottom