Service Intervals, Parts, and Brands

[Guest]

Nope it is fully syn, when i read that it wasn't i thought i could of sworn it said fully synthetic and it does. it actually even super synthetic

 

[bradc]

ahh ok, there was some that I saw here that was 'synthetic blend'

 

[Guest]

I think it would be a good idea for most people to get their timing belt at least checked, as a lot of cars are pushing 10 years old now, i got mine checked, and thank god it was ok

 

[aaron68nz]

I think it would be a good idea for most people to get their timing belt at least checked, as a lot of cars are pushing 10 years old now, i got mine checked, and thank god it was ok

Of course there are the stories of people who've had snapped belts because although the timing belt was ok/replaced the tensioner hadn't been replaced. And it can be also good to check the water pump too while everything is pulled apart during belt replacements. When my mechanic said he'd changed the pump too I thought he was ripping me off but it's good preventative maintenance. I think the pump was only about $80 or something.

 

[Guest]

Yeah pump's are nothing, and the labor to get too is is crazy, I got all my oils changed once the car got in the country, Transmission, transfer case, AYC and front diff . I know they should have been done on complience, but you never know what oil they use.

 

[Guest]

Is Mobil 1 a fully synthetic oil?

Yes, it is. To meet the demanding requirements of today's specifications (and our customers' expectations), Mobil 1 uses high performance synthetic fluids, including polyalphaolefins (PAO), along with a proprietary system of additives. In fact, each Mobil 1 viscosity grade uses a specific combination of a synthetic fluids and selected additives in order to tailor the viscosity grade to its unique requirements.

 

[Guest]

lol some one has done their home work

 

[kiwibstokes]

Where you get all your oils etc done JMO? I'm interested in getting them done for the sake of it as well. and is anyone equipped to plug into the cars for error codes etc out of interest??

 

[Guest]

0w30 or 5w30 are recommended oils, make sure they are fully Synth!You also need to keep an eye on your transmission fluid if you have an auto, you're going to want to replace it every 20-40000km.The AYC diff is just about impossible to full service by yourself, I would suggest taking it to a place that is familiar with EVO's and get them to do it every 10-15000km.

Correct me if I am wrong but someone told me that those oils are too colder grade for use in Australia and recomended a fully synthetic 10 or 15w can someone who knows about oil clarify for me.

 

[Guest]

Depends who u talk to ... I have heard such a load of baloney with oils, One guy is telling my to go thin, the other to go thick, one saying syth, the other saying its a waste of time. I would listen to people like Bradc and the clubvr4 guys about wat oils are actually working well, but keeping in mind we have alot higher average heat. I have been told we have large variations in temp in australia which I totally disagree with as I think in Perth its always nice and warm, we hardly have many cold days except a small period in the winter.

 

[bradc]

If you really want confirmation send a pm to 'Amsoil' on the clubvr4 forums, he knows what he is talking about.In England and NZ the recommended oil for VR-4's is 0w30, with 5w30 and 5w40 not being bad solutions either. Over there you may need something slightly thicker, I'm not sure.

 

[Guest]

When I think about it would ambient temp really matter, when the car is up to temp shouldnt it be the same here, japan or nz, that is what the cooling system is designed for, to regulate temp.

 

[bradc]

yeah but racing in 35 or so degree heat out in perth is going to be harder on it than driving it in NZ normally in 15 degree temps

 

[SiliconAngel]

When I think about it would ambient temp really matter, when the car is up to temp shouldnt it be the same here, japan or nz, that is what the cooling system is designed for, to regulate temp.

EDIT: Please read Brad's post below - I forgot about a very important component in the cooling system of a car, being the thermostat!

Your overall total temperatures WILL vary by the difference in ambient temperature. For example, if ambient is 14ºC and your engine once warm gets to 104ºC, at 34ºC ambient your total engine temperature in the same driving conditions will reach 124ºC!

Think about how your engine is cooled - it uses a liquid cooling system through a heat exchange radiator. Now that radiator is limited by the ambient environment as to just how much heat it can dissipate. The higher the ambient temperature, the less heat is exchanged with air and the hotter the coolant running through your engine.

So yes, it makes quite a big difference and as such you should be using a thicker oil (higher viscosity) in Australia than Japan or England, as the higher temperatures will cause any oil to run thinner (reduced viscosity).

Just on the subject of engine 'ticking', that sounds exactly like worn lifters. Ususally a thicker oil will reduce that sound, but its caused by worn hydraulic lifters leaking oil which reduces their firmness. As the camshaft rotates and pushes the rocker arms up and down, these then exert force on the valve stem, opening and closing the valves. The hydraulic lifters sit between the rocker arms and the top of the valve stem. If the lifters are worn they become spongy, which results in a small gap between them, the rocker arms and the top of the valve stem. This small gap is what causes the ticking, as the rocker arms are making little impacts as they come down on the lifters, instead of a continuous smooth motion. Got ticking? Replace your lifters

 

[Sydo]

Transmission, transfer case, AYC and front diff . I know they should have been done on complience, but you never know what oil they use.

Doubtful they would have been changed during compliance.
I asked what oil they'd be using in my tranny, and was told it would not be touched!

 

[bradc]

Trevor, thats not quite right, once the temp gets above 104C the thermostat will open further, and the fans will come on more often. You have to try VERY hard to get the water to overheat in a Legnum. As for the oil, remember it is very close to the water, so while the oil temps can be a bit higher than the water, 20C would be a bit too high I think.

 

[SiliconAngel]

Brad, thanks for that, I completely forgot about the thermostat! I was thinking about heat dissipation theory, that all other things being equal, a rise in ambient temperature will have an equal resultant rise in the temperature of the component you're trying to cool. But with a variable thermostat, all other things AREN'T remaining equal!

Its something that gets discussed a lot in computer cooling, too, which is really where my head was at while writing that...

So, um, yea, ignore half my post above

 

[snickells]

Oh man, please don't start an argument about computer cooling! We'll have to appoint a first aid officer if you do what with all the black eyes and blood noses that will follow.

 

[SiliconAngel]

Hahaha nah, its all pretty straight-forward... Go the Phase Change I say!!

 

[Nash]

Yeah pump's are nothing, and the labor to get too is is crazy, I got all my oils changed once the car got in the country, Transmission, transfer case, AYC and front diff . I know they should have been done on complience, but you never know what oil they use.

You sure they replace oils on compliance ?

I only had my Brake fluid done, Catalist, Brake Pads, Computer tuned, windscreen wiper blades and air filter....

Consumer information Notice says nothing about Engine, Tranny or AYC fluids.

Best you all get the cars serviced, or change the oils yourself. Oh and make sure you do the filters on the Engine and the Gearbox (Auto). You don't know whats gone through them....

Oh I noticed Naughtika used the larger of the engine oil filters. Wont you get a higher oil pressure if you use a smaller one ????