Vacuum lines from turbos (6a13tt)

[2HIPSI]

Hey is there anybody on here I can get hold of via messenger to point me in the right direction for setting up MBC on my car, last owners made a mess of it

 

[mezje]

If you used the search button or Google you could find a vacuum diagram quite easily. Even instructions on how to install an MBC...

Vacuum lines

Just replaced spark plugs and ended up with a left over vacuum line, it's the one next to the red line where the mbc is fitted, the pipe which connects to throttle body, thanks in advance!

www.ozvr4.com

https://www.ozvr4.com/threads/installing-a-manual-boost-controller.908/

 

[2HIPSI]

I'll have a look for diagrams as someone else already put boost controller in but not sure if it's done right

 

[BCX]

Would normally go: (as you'll see in the thread mezje linked)

Barb on plastic elbow (pre throttle) -> tee to solenoid and metal line that splits to each turbo -> wastegate on each turbo.
other port of the OEM solenoid connects to just after the air filter/MAF to bleed air.


Trace it out and can probably advise if it's right or not. but MBC is your ticket to hitting boost cut

FYI, the hose with the red end painted has a restrictor in it. See if any of the hoses have a red end painted.

 

[Baba Galant]

If it's a manual boost controller in the engine bay it's pretty hit and miss. As BCX stated they tend to overboost and aren't reliable in holding any steady boost.
If you're not going to be running an electronic boost controller perhaps think about sticking to the factory set up.

 

[2HIPSI]

Would normally go: (as you'll see in the thread mezje linked)

Barb on plastic elbow (pre throttle) -> tee to solenoid and metal line that splits to each turbo -> wastegate on each turbo.
other port of the OEM solenoid connects to just after the air filter/MAF to bleed air.


Trace it out and can probably advise if it's right or not. but MBC is your ticket to hitting boost cut

FYI, the hose with the red end painted has a restrictor in it. See if any of the hoses have a red end painted.

Thanks for that, that's pretty much what the diagram I looked at last night says. Yea it's already overboosting and boost cutting coz last owner put MBC in and it's been seized right open so it just free boosts till it hits boost cut. Want to replace it with one that's working and wind it back to around 10psi.

 

[Legnum in America]

Hey is there anybody on here I can get hold of via messenger to point me in the right direction for setting up MBC on my car, last owners made a mess of it

I installed the TurboSmart MBC this weekend. I removed the pill in the solenoid and removed the pill in the red tip hose as well. I replaced all the boost lines from the solenoid with silicone ones marked in orange. I removed the hose from the air intake hose going to the solenoid and blocked it off. When removing hoses be careful of the T as it may break. Boost is at 12.5 psi running real smooth. Night and day compared to before. Hope this helps.

I started off at the lowest setting and was running 8psi stock because of the pill being removed. Did one full turn on the MBC at a time and tested on full throttle until desired setting. Its winter now in Chicago so boost will be different in the spring/summer months.

Update: I am now getting this weird boost curve. After reading more on this site. I think I need to block off the hose going from the T to the solenoid. Can someone confirm this? Also do I keep the hose from the Air Intake Hose connected to the solenoid?

 

[BCX]

Just a warning for people who havent come across it yet:

Standard head bolts will stretch and the heads will lift if boost is significantly increased. Usually this problem can be overcome within the tune (torque output limited), however using a MBC wont have the same control.

ECU does have a boost cut but is more about fuel delivery/injector dutycycle and protecting against a lean event, but doesn't help with low rpm, high load conditions that will produce high combustion pressures that will lift the heads.

Upgrading to ARP head studs is a must if you're interested in significantly increasing boost.

 

[Legnum in America]

Just a warning for people who havent come across it yet:

Standard head bolts will stretch and the heads will lift if boost is significantly increased. Usually this problem can be overcome within the tune (torque output limited), however using a MBC wont have the same control.

ECU does have a boost cut but is more about fuel delivery/injector dutycycle and protecting against a lean event, but doesn't help with low rpm, high load conditions that will produce high combustion pressures that will lift the heads.

Upgrading to ARP head studs is a must if you're interested in significantly increasing boost.

I have found two on ARP. main stud kit and the head stud kit.

Main Stud Kit - Mitsubishi 6A10/12/13 DOHC 24v - Racing Performance Works

ARP Main Stud Kit - Mitsubishi 6A10/12/13 DOHC 24v Engines

shop.rpw.com.au

Head Stud Kit - Mitsubishi 6A10/12/13 DOHC 24v - Racing Performance Works

ARP Head Stud Kit - Mitsubishi 6A12/13 DOHC 24v incl Mivec

shop.rpw.com.au

 

[BCX]

$660aud is a bit steep for head studs.

ARP dont do a 6a13 kit, it would be made from 2x 203-4204 kits (suits toyota 3s-gte)

 

[6A13TT TYPE S]

1x 3S-GTE kit is about 320 these days so its about right

Group buying them is the way to do it. 8 3S-GTE sets split into 5 6a13 sets. Which brings the price down to 512 per kit and no studs left over.