2HIPSI
Idling at the Lights
Hey is there anybody on here I can get hold of via messenger to point me in the right direction for setting up MBC on my car, last owners made a mess of it
Vacuum lines from turbos (6a13tt)
- Thread starter 2HIPSI
- Start date
If you used the search button or Google you could find a vacuum diagram quite easily. Even instructions on how to install an MBC...
www.ozvr4.com
Vacuum lines
Just replaced spark plugs and ended up with a left over vacuum line, it's the one next to the red line where the mbc is fitted, the pipe which connects to throttle body, thanks in advance!
- Location
- SA
- First Name
- Bill
- Drive
- 2000 Galant Type-V
1997 MK Triton GLS [6G74 conversion]
2019 i30 N-Line
Would normally go: (as you'll see in the thread mezje linked)
Barb on plastic elbow (pre throttle) -> tee to solenoid and metal line that splits to each turbo -> wastegate on each turbo.
other port of the OEM solenoid connects to just after the air filter/MAF to bleed air.
Trace it out and can probably advise if it's right or not. but MBC is your ticket to hitting boost cut
FYI, the hose with the red end painted has a restrictor in it. See if any of the hoses have a red end painted.
Barb on plastic elbow (pre throttle) -> tee to solenoid and metal line that splits to each turbo -> wastegate on each turbo.
other port of the OEM solenoid connects to just after the air filter/MAF to bleed air.
Trace it out and can probably advise if it's right or not. but MBC is your ticket to hitting boost cut
FYI, the hose with the red end painted has a restrictor in it. See if any of the hoses have a red end painted.
If it's a manual boost controller in the engine bay it's pretty hit and miss. As BCX stated they tend to overboost and aren't reliable in holding any steady boost.
If you're not going to be running an electronic boost controller perhaps think about sticking to the factory set up.
If you're not going to be running an electronic boost controller perhaps think about sticking to the factory set up.
2HIPSI
Idling at the Lights
- Thread starter
- #6
Thanks for that, that's pretty much what the diagram I looked at last night says. Yea it's already overboosting and boost cutting coz last owner put MBC in and it's been seized right open so it just free boosts till it hits boost cut. Want to replace it with one that's working and wind it back to around 10psi.Would normally go: (as you'll see in the thread mezje linked)
Barb on plastic elbow (pre throttle) -> tee to solenoid and metal line that splits to each turbo -> wastegate on each turbo.
other port of the OEM solenoid connects to just after the air filter/MAF to bleed air.
Trace it out and can probably advise if it's right or not. but MBC is your ticket to hitting boost cut
FYI, the hose with the red end painted has a restrictor in it. See if any of the hoses have a red end painted.
- Location
- Chicago
- First Name
- Mike
- Drive
- 1997 Mitsubishi Legnum VR4 COTY
2022 Subaru Outback Onyx XT
1999 Honda Civic EX
I installed the TurboSmart MBC this weekend. I removed the pill in the solenoid and removed the pill in the red tip hose as well. I replaced all the boost lines from the solenoid with silicone ones marked in orange. I removed the hose from the air intake hose going to the solenoid and blocked it off. When removing hoses be careful of the T as it may break. Boost is at 12.5 psi running real smooth. Night and day compared to before. Hope this helps.
I started off at the lowest setting and was running 8psi stock because of the pill being removed. Did one full turn on the MBC at a time and tested on full throttle until desired setting. Its winter now in Chicago so boost will be different in the spring/summer months.
Update: I am now getting this weird boost curve. After reading more on this site. I think I need to block off the hose going from the T to the solenoid. Can someone confirm this? Also do I keep the hose from the Air Intake Hose connected to the solenoid?
Last edited:
- Location
- SA
- First Name
- Bill
- Drive
- 2000 Galant Type-V
1997 MK Triton GLS [6G74 conversion]
2019 i30 N-Line
Just a warning for people who havent come across it yet:
Standard head bolts will stretch and the heads will lift if boost is significantly increased. Usually this problem can be overcome within the tune (torque output limited), however using a MBC wont have the same control.
ECU does have a boost cut but is more about fuel delivery/injector dutycycle and protecting against a lean event, but doesn't help with low rpm, high load conditions that will produce high combustion pressures that will lift the heads.
Upgrading to ARP head studs is a must if you're interested in significantly increasing boost.
Standard head bolts will stretch and the heads will lift if boost is significantly increased. Usually this problem can be overcome within the tune (torque output limited), however using a MBC wont have the same control.
ECU does have a boost cut but is more about fuel delivery/injector dutycycle and protecting against a lean event, but doesn't help with low rpm, high load conditions that will produce high combustion pressures that will lift the heads.
Upgrading to ARP head studs is a must if you're interested in significantly increasing boost.
- Location
- Chicago
- First Name
- Mike
- Drive
- 1997 Mitsubishi Legnum VR4 COTY
2022 Subaru Outback Onyx XT
1999 Honda Civic EX
I have found two on ARP. main stud kit and the head stud kit.
Main Stud Kit - Mitsubishi 6A10/12/13 DOHC 24v - Racing Performance Works
ARP Main Stud Kit - Mitsubishi 6A10/12/13 DOHC 24v Engines
shop.rpw.com.au
Head Stud Kit - Mitsubishi 6A10/12/13 DOHC 24v - Racing Performance Works
ARP Head Stud Kit - Mitsubishi 6A12/13 DOHC 24v incl Mivec
shop.rpw.com.au
1x 3S-GTE kit is about 320 these days so its about right
Group buying them is the way to do it. 8 3S-GTE sets split into 5 6a13 sets. Which brings the price down to 512 per kit and no studs left over.
Group buying them is the way to do it. 8 3S-GTE sets split into 5 6a13 sets. Which brings the price down to 512 per kit and no studs left over.
