Where do we all run our boost lines into the cabin?

W

w1k3d

Unregistered
Hey all,

Sorry for all the questions of late. anywho...

Where are we all running out boost lines into the cabin? I have run my 0 gauge wiring for the amps through the grommet on the passenger side (via wheel arch).

My only qualm with this route is when running a boost line its better to have the most direct route with less kinks as possible.

So... Can anyone please elaborate how they get the line into the cabin as I am seeking to buy a EBC and as most have the boost line run into the cabin, directly to the rear of the control unit, this is a wall I have hit stopping me from buying.

From what I have seen, only the AVC-R has a controller that only requires cables. But $800 and the advanced nature of the unit is a turn off.

I previously ran a Blitz SBC iDIII in my rex until the Haltec went in then all boost control was done through its own solenoid. I have been considering buying the HDi controller... but from what I have read the Greddy Profec B II seems to be the favorite around.

I can get the profec B II brand new delivered for AU$475.00 so this may be worth the extra money over the HDi which is $350.00 delivered.

Thanks ppl's
 

pu-11-me

and put an LSD in it
Location
NSW
First Name
Dawso
Drive
VW Touareg
I'll get a pic for ya bro....

In the auto i put a hole through where the the clutch would be and the manual comes through next to the accerator cable. Its stealthier next to the accelerator cable too and also away from the elements as much as possible :)

I have the Profec B spec II.... I just find they are more tunable, especially with the changes in weather where i live. Just a preference thing really :)

I'll go get that pic now haha
 
W

w1k3d

Unregistered
Thanks dude! Really appreciate it; I took out my trusty LED torch to have a look in the engine bay... then realized just how cramped it is...

How do you find the profec B with spikes? I used to love my Blitz but it did spike alot under "fuzzy logic" full auto; I ended up dialing in manual control and never touched it again.

So I take the install is fairly simple; wire up the controller to normal power and ignition... then vacuum line goes to main controller (in-cabin).... then the solenoid taps one side into the y-piece which goes to each turbo's actuator and the other side of the solenoid goes to the (red marked) intake nipple?

Do I unplug the factory solenoid or block both sides up? Just want to clarify as some cars ECU's crack the shits if it doesn't find a boost solenoid when it does POST.


I'll get a pic for ya bro....

In the auto i put a hole through where the the clutch would be and the manual comes through next to the accerator cable. Its stealthier next to the accelerator cable too and also away from the elements as much as possible :)

I have the Profec II spec B.... I just find they are more tunable, especially with the changes in weather where i live. Just a preference thing really :)

I'll go get that pic now haha
 

pu-11-me

and put an LSD in it
Location
NSW
First Name
Dawso
Drive
VW Touareg
I had an MBC i had borrowed and binned it to put in the Profec as the spiking on the MBC was CRAP!

Spike control on the Profec is set as a percentage over set boost and it corrects it pretty fast.... I've never seen it spike over 14 and it was set at 13. That includes HAMMERING it in minus temps etc :)

Its a real simple install. As you have said above exactly to be precise and you block the vacuum side line on the standard solenoid.

Here is where my solenoid etc is -

Wheel-Controller002.jpg


Close up of where the lines come into the cab -
Wheel-Controller003.jpg


Further back so you can judge where it is :)
Wheel-Controller004.jpg
 
W

w1k3d

Unregistered
really... thanks again for the pics. This is the same spot I was thinking "pitty there is no grommet there" :p

Stupid question... how did you drill the hole? did you come at it from the dash side... or bonnet side?

Where does this come out, behind the cluster? or are you able to get to it from under the dash without having to remove the cluster?
 

pu-11-me

and put an LSD in it
Location
NSW
First Name
Dawso
Drive
VW Touareg
really... thanks again for the pics. This is the same spot I was thinking "pitty there is no grommet there" :p

Stupid question... how did you drill the hole? did you come at it from the dash side... or bonnet side?

Where does this come out, behind the cluster? or are you able to get to it from under the dash without having to remove the cluster?

Dash side, you can't get to it from the bonnet side, hence the dodgy photos hehe

It comes out behind the dash at the top of the accerator pedal and if you look up there you can see it without taking the dash out :D

Here is where i have run the unit to in the blue car - esemte (Steve) has his in the same place too
IMG_0146.jpg
 
W

w1k3d

Unregistered
haha thats so clean... awsome idea. I was hunting around deciding where to hide it as I like the "standard look" especially when I have anyone in the car or police stop me for RBT or licence check; unsuspecting eyes see nothing :)

So I take its good fun drilling from the dash side :p Do you reccomend taking anything out... or a special way of doing it from your experience being there and doing it ?
 

pu-11-me

and put an LSD in it
Location
NSW
First Name
Dawso
Drive
VW Touareg
Hahaha..... Allocate plenty of time :p

Start with a small drill bit and get bigger. Its pretty tough steel there so make sure they are sharp. Put a sheet down to catch the filings.

USE A PUNCH TO MAKE A DENT BEFORE YOU START DRILLING.... I wouldn't want to see you drill through your accelator cable lol, let alone sucking the carpet around the drill haha

Thats about it really :)

Unit install -
How did ya fit the EBC in there? Ive got the same one and trying to do the same thing, but it seems to be hitting something and will not close properly. I'm thinking of cutting a small hole at the back of the little pocket.

Stephen,

You drill the holes in the back at the top of the pocket. You can't do it at the bottom because it has a slight taper towards the base and won't fit the controller.

The holes need to be big enough the fit the mould at the base of the inlet valve. If you do it accurately enough, it will quite sufficiently support the back of the unit with a bit of double sided tape to stop the front from bouncing.

Its a pretty tight squeeze and houses it nicely and looks the goods when it is done! (And keeps it from police officers/rego inspectors peering eyes ;))

Good Luck![/quote]
 
W

w1k3d

Unregistered
Awsome, cheers for the info... when I get my profec B in the post.. I'll get to it! by the way... Did you do the facelift on your white leggy? or did you buy it like that... ? i'm wanting to do it to mine eventually.
 

pu-11-me

and put an LSD in it
Location
NSW
First Name
Dawso
Drive
VW Touareg
Awsome, cheers for the info... when I get my profec B in the post.. I'll get to it! by the way... Did you do the facelift on your white leggy? or did you buy it like that... ? i'm wanting to do it to mine eventually.

Came with it.... It was like that from Japan :)

Just didn't come with a facelift bonnet which is disappointing but not the end of the world
 
Top Bottom