6a13TT single turbo project with dyno results

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Guys finally my project came to the final stage. The project is to convert twin turbo setup to single turbo setup using Garret T04s, custom piping turbo, and installing the E8 stand alone ECU.

Anyway the result is pretty nice. I was aiming to get over 300 whp. But due the fuel pump limitation we had to stop at 287.7 whp at 1.35 bar. Over that number the fuel pump can't supply enough fuel to the injector. With better fuel pump I might reach over 300whp. Please take into the account I am in tropical country where hot weather might effect the dyno result. And the dyno was using full AWD dyno dynamic engine. So it's not a FWD dyno engine which will produce a higher number than mine. My friend here with the same engine and stock turbo with only boost controller could reach 380hp easily using FWD engine dyno.

Anyway discussing about the number, my friend who did operate the dyno said that is a good number. Considering that the stock hp is 280hp. And the dyno results is 287 hp x 1.3 = approx. 373 hp. So there is about 90 hp power increase estimated.

Here are couple of picture of the car and the dyno sheet:





Some picture of the car:



Engine spec:
-Turbo Garret t04s
-custom turbo piping
-520cc HKS injector
-bosch fuel pump for cherokee V8 engine
-HKS bov
-Haltech E8
- 3 bar MAF sensor
-Defi VSDX 2
- Apexi AVCR
-18x8.5 SSR type C wheels
-Falken F452 225/40/18
-tein Super wagon
-denso iridium spark plug
-ebay turbo blanket
-alcon EC5A BBK 332mm disc
 
G

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it's an estimated formula to calculate drive loss. 287hp is a wheel horsepower. So the estimated on engine power will be adding 30% to 287hp.

The stock engine is 280 hp but when you dyno the car it will not be 280 hp. Cause there will be a drive loss.
 
G

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yes i know about transmission losses.

have you dyno'ed the car before the turbo upgrade? where did you get 30% from?

good to see someone else has gone the single route, i personally would like to that that route eventually.
 
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I haven't dynoed the car before the modification. Just use the factory hp as comparison. Dyno service here is quite expensive. so there is now way I would spend that much money on the stock engine. =)

Mitch the 30% is just an estimated number. I got that number from my dyno operator. But it's not a common number cause some people might use 35% or 25% to estimated the transmission losses. It's just basically a rough estimation.
 

bradc

1 AYC Bar
Location
New Zealand
First Name
Brad
Drive
Facelift Manual 400hp VR-4 Legnum
The standard that has been used in cvr4 for some time now is wheel power / 0.76 for a manual, and power / 0.71 for an auto. This was after two dyno runs in the UK where the dyno operators used that figure. It won't be correct for all dyno's though of course.
 

matchtheclown

Time p33nt
Location
nsw
First Name
hugh
Drive
99 VR-4 Type S Man
Mitchy > The 30% is to get what it would be producing at the engine right.

It doesn't really matter. 287hp at the wheels is about 215kW which is pretty damn impressing at all 4 wheels.

I believe Matax is getting more with his 2 turbo upgrade?


I'd be damn happy with the results. I'm surprised your fuel pump can't keep up? Any plans to upgrade it?
 

Hotwire

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Premium Member
Location
South Australia
First Name
Lee
Drive
97 COTY
So is that a custom inlet manifold/plenum? Or is it the factory manifold with the T/B welded onto the other end?

Just wondering why you chose this as opposed to sitting the turbo on the Drivers Side and leaving the manifold stock?
 
G

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Mitchy > The 30% is to get what it would be producing at the engine right.

It doesn't really matter. 287hp at the wheels is about 215kW which is pretty damn impressing at all 4 wheels.

I believe Matax is getting more with his 2 turbo upgrade?


I'd be damn happy with the results. I'm surprised your fuel pump can't keep up? Any plans to upgrade it?

Yes planning on upgrade the fuel pump but I am pretty happy for the results. So i'm gonna keep this way for awhile.

I had a feeling that the stock engine can withstand 1.5 bar of boost ehehehe......I was planning to do so if the fuel pump didn't die on 1.35 bar. hehehehe
 
G

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So is that a custom inlet manifold/plenum? Or is it the factory manifold with the T/B welded onto the other end?

Just wondering why you chose this as opposed to sitting the turbo on the Drivers Side and leaving the manifold stock?

Lee that is a stock plenum but I cut it short and welded again. The idea is to make shorter and also to make changing spark plug much easier. Which proven on the dyno day, it only took couple of minutes to change spark plug comparing to stock long plenum which need to be remove in order to reach the rear bank.

I don't think there is enough room on the drive side to place the turbo.
 
G

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The standard that has been used in cvr4 for some time now is wheel power / 0.76 for a manual, and power / 0.71 for an auto. This was after two dyno runs in the UK where the dyno operators used that figure. It won't be correct for all dyno's though of course.

brad that a close result to my rough estimation..... 287x1.3= 373hp as to your estimation the result will be 287/0.76 = 377hp
 
G

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hello! Who fabbed up your turbo manifold? I am going this route with our 6a13tt in a 99 colt.
 
G

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wah ada orang indo di oz VR4....setelannya ovi ya?:bigsmile:
 
G

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hahahaha...its indonesian....sorry if you guys dont understand....:ROFLMAO:
 
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