big problems?-racq check

weeaazz

Leaving Skid Marks
Location
qld/noosa
First Name
james
Drive
legnum
well just bought my car but it was on one condition with my parents,that i got an racq check,overall the car is in great condition but these couple things were found-

1. both front caster bar rear bushes had minor splits

2. slight play in right inner steering rack end

3. coolant corrosion and wear at hoses under throttle body

4. this one is stupid, drivers door mirror does not retract,but actually they both do so im not too sure wat theyre talking about

then to prove that racq must not be familiar in any way with the legnums,they write front and rear suspension is stiff...hahahaha
and its stock suspension

so yer just wandering if i should quickly get these looked at or how i can fix them
 
G

Guest

Unregistered
the slight play in the inner steering rack sounds the same as what my car had ... If u jack the car up does the wheel have play and u can wiggle it left and right slightly ?
It was a tierod end in my car, even though 2 other people thought it was a suspension ball joint. Wasted a good $500 there. hopefully its a tierod end as u can pick them up cheap from Kempys.

Good luck with the rest, nothing serious there by the sounds.
 

weeaazz

Leaving Skid Marks
Location
qld/noosa
First Name
james
Drive
legnum
cheers paul,ill give it a closer look on thursday when i can jack it up while i give the engine a flush.and im also gonna go down to a good import shop and see if theyll put my car on a hoist to check out underneath
 

bradc

1 AYC Bar
Location
New Zealand
First Name
Brad
Drive
Facelift Manual 400hp VR-4 Legnum
first two problems are important. Not so sure about the coolant corrosion? Do they mean the coolant isn't any good, or that it has been dripping on something and slowing eating it away?
 
G

Guest

Unregistered
2. slight play in right inner steering rack end

thats not a tie rod end,

thats a rack end, harder job but still DIY if your handy with tools,
its a $30/40 part if you dont get it from mitsi, 7th gen rack end is the same/works.

you'll need an alignment afterwards

worst case it could be the actual steering rack,
easy way to tell... remove the rack end boot, if its full of power steering fluid
its time for a rack rebuild (expensive)
 

weeaazz

Leaving Skid Marks
Location
qld/noosa
First Name
james
Drive
legnum
i have no idea about the coolant corrosion,wat it is or where it is but all this will be checked out on thursday so hopefully ill find out
 
G

Guest

Unregistered
it might mean the coolant hoses that circulate coolant through the TB if its that its easy..
if there is play in the wheel when you jack it up from top to bottom thats ball joints im fairly sure, not side to side..
 

naughtika

OzVR4 Stalker
Location
Brisbane, QLD
First Name
Christian
Drive
'96 Galant VR4, '17 MB A180, '25 Macan GTS
James hope its only the inner tie-rod or tie-rod end.. can you get hold of the part number? if you can, get repco, autobarn or coventry auto supplies to cross reference it (and get the price from each shop) with the previous model, my guess is they are the same.. I might be able to help you get it cheaper and probably install it too.. pm me for more details..

Coolant corrosion - the RACQ guy might be pointing out the inlet and outlet underneath the TB.. they usually corrode over the years.. one quick way to fix it is.. remove the hose, sand down the corroded part then grease it with high temp grease (just a small dab of grease) then clean the inner part of those 2 hoses then put it back on.. that should fixt it.. MAKE SURE YOU TIGHTEN UP THE CLAMP THOROUGHLY.. some people here might say its not a good idea.. :D
 
G

Guest

Unregistered
it might mean the coolant hoses that circulate coolant through the TB if its that its easy..
if there is play in the wheel when you jack it up from top to bottom thats ball joints im fairly sure, not side to side..

most likely is those lines..

when i changed my plugs the other day, i re-routed the coolant lines so it bypasses the throttle body.

where the lines run too and from the throttle body, i simply disconnected them, and then removed the shorter one from the block, and the curved one i ran back to the now exposed coolant nipple.

not sure how much of a performance difference it would make, but atleast you don't have a heated throttle body, and no poxy coolant lines to it. :p
 
G

Guest

Unregistered
2. slight play in right inner steering rack end
thats not a tie rod end,

Thats strange Its the exact problem I had fixed ... are you talking terminology here ? or telling me my car wasn't fixed and i'm imagining things ?
 
G

Guest

Unregistered
parts are connected in this order. ech is a seperate part.

steering wheel...

steering rack....


rack end...
Rack_End.jpg



tie rod end..
ES2347RL.jpg


wheel hub..
 
G

Guest

Unregistered
yea mitch i have done the same only i got a hose joiner and joint the hoses so the coolant still circulates just not to the TB, it will lower intake temps slightly, every little bit helps..

just a little advice make sure you put some kind of hose on the TB nipples so it dont get any dust and shit in there..
 

weeaazz

Leaving Skid Marks
Location
qld/noosa
First Name
james
Drive
legnum
well good news is a found a workshop up here that can work on my car,their name is am auto(that reminds me,they have a website-www.amauto.com.au) so i think im going to get them to make me a dump pipe and while theyre at it, fix these couple things above

but have found something else that mite need attention,not sure,i mite just be an idiot.a couple times lately,ive stopped my car and the tyres have slightly smelt like burnt rubber,and today we looked at the rotors when we smelt it and theyve got slight slight slight grooves that on them,i dont notice them but a mate does,so yer i was wandering if maybe there was something wrong with my brakes or maybe i just shouldnt be hitting those last couple roundabouts as fast

keep in mind that the previous owner just got the discs all machined a couple weeks ago

actualy think ill just keep it slower for a couple days and see if it still gets the smell
 

naughtika

OzVR4 Stalker
Location
Brisbane, QLD
First Name
Christian
Drive
'96 Galant VR4, '17 MB A180, '25 Macan GTS
do they shudder/vibrate/shake when you press on the brake pedal? if so, usually at what speed?

dunno if anyone has told you.. oem mitsubishi brake rotors are prone to warping.. dunno about the EVO ones..

get RDA or DBA rotors, use slotted rotors, they are worth the extra $$... also make sure you match it with a decent set of pads.. like EBC Green stuff or Red Stuff.. but with red, you'll have to warm up the pads first since it's more for track than street..
 
G

Guest

Unregistered
yea mitch i have done the same only i got a hose joiner and joint the hoses so the coolant still circulates just not to the TB, it will lower intake temps slightly, every little bit helps..

just a little advice make sure you put some kind of hose on the TB nipples so it dont get any dust and shit in there..

i joined them, however i removed the shorter hose, and put the longer one onto the nipple it came off of.

TB i'm not too worried about, i'm trying to source a non-TCL NA one anyway. :p *prods Nick*
 

weeaazz

Leaving Skid Marks
Location
qld/noosa
First Name
james
Drive
legnum
yes they can shudder.once again i didnt notice it but the same mate of mine did

im not sure wat speed it is but ill find out

ill see what i can get ordered in and get prices
 

weeaazz

Leaving Skid Marks
Location
qld/noosa
First Name
james
Drive
legnum
actually,after driving it more i dont think i need new brakes,ive braked at every speed and nothing happens,i think my mate is pulling himself

to clarify,there is no shuddering
 
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