Electronic Vs Bleed Valve Expensive Vs Cheap What is every one's opinion and past experiences with boost controllers? They can either make a car, or break a car have your say
VR-4 turbos are so tiny that I don't beleive there is much use for a big expensive boost controller. Just get a cheapie and ramp it up to about 12-15psi and leave it at that.
im using a Gizzmo IBC, 4 memory settings, very easy to setup... and i can stay in the car if i want to lower/raise boost, the bleed valaves are a very good way to get more out of your car, but if you are going to use one of these i recommend getting the ball and spring type as they seam more consistant. also, the VR4s wont take much more than 15psi/1bar of boost befor hitting boost/fuel cut, this will ofcourse very from car to car, depening on mod's and the weather.
An alternative to consider, is that those thinking about it, fitment of a haltech piggy back ECU can provide several answers 1) It has an inbuilt eletronic boost controller with external trim module / duel mapping hi / lo boost 2) Has an inbuilt boost limiter removal tool for those wanting to run higher than 15 psi boost 3) can tune your fuel / ign curves for low/high octane fuel as well as for more power etc So rather than paying over $500.00 for a boost controller only, you can pick up a haltech interceptor unit for around $1000.00 and get all the extras that go with it.
I can't stress enuff that if I have learn't anything from modifying my previous cars, its don't do it on the cheap. There is no way in the world I would be putting a bleed valve in my beloved VR4 ... each to their own, but they are unreliable and can cause serious damage ...If u are really that keen to do it on the cheap u better spend some big bucks on a good aftermarket boost gauge and watch it all the time. if that bleed valve stuffs up say goodbye to ur turbos and possibly hello to a rebuild.
You can only ever have two things in relation to modifying a car, your choices are: Price, Reliability or Quality Never will you get all three.
I get frustrated when people try to do everything on the cheap, but they spend a fortune on silly silly things they don't need. All the silly little things addup, if u just save u can do all the "important" mods properly. Rather than spend the $30 u have now, put it in a container somewhere and add to it over the weeks till u can afford good stuff, it will be well worth it in the long run even if it takes longer to get ... My vent for the day ...
One thing I always laugh at is when people buy the cheapest item, then complain when it breaks two seconds latter. Whether its car, houses, boats or bikes. You get what you pay for.
With a VR-4 it is basically impossible to screw the turbos by using any kind of boost control. The ecu will hit fuel cut as soon as you go above about 15psi.
Gizzmo ones are quite cheap over here, and i had one on my 180sx and it worked a treat, i could tell a difference between it and a bleed valve when running the same boost
Yep Peter is right. We've seen some older Legnums running at about 10psi, possibly as the wastegate springs weaken over time.
has anyone ever tried using a manual boost control+AFC together? I'd like to know what the results be..
Being twin turbo - where would you plumb a bleed valve? I'm used to single turbo cars and just intercepting the feed off the compressor housing. I too would be interested in anyone using the above combination and might try it myself if nobody else has. Got good results using an SAFC and bleed valve on my R33 (180rwkw with exhaust and filter).
There is a feed going into the intake plenum that you tap off from. An SAFC + Boost + Exhaust + Intercooler should give you around 180kw atw.
Don't use bleeder. If you've got to use MBC - use ball&spring type instead... It will give you a "bonus", in form of almost instant boost...
Do you mean +180kw on TOP OF the stock 207? So talking 380ish atw total?? I knew you could get a whole lot out of these cars, but that's pretty insane...
