Fuel Tank Options
- Thread starter VR4Legs
- Start date
Macca
Showing some Leg.
I know this doesn't help much but I'm pretty sure the only ones compatible are ones from Galants and Legnums, but I cant even confirm that as the Galant ones may be different to Legnum ones.
One thing I wish our fuel tanks did have is a drain plug so you could drain the undesirable stuff from the bottom of it.
If you're in a jam maybe someone can plastic weld it for you or something. I've heard its a total pick of a job to get it out though.
One thing I wish our fuel tanks did have is a drain plug so you could drain the undesirable stuff from the bottom of it.
If you're in a jam maybe someone can plastic weld it for you or something. I've heard its a total pick of a job to get it out though.
can confirm. prick of a job to do. i have a busted spare you could buy and get plastic welded. freight to tas might be a killer
Rabit
Leaving Skid Marks
- Location
- Qld
- First Name
- Robert
- Drive
- 2000 Legnum Mint with 44589ks when I got it. Now with black leather seats. After 3 years of fun some terminal engine bay wiring issues raised their ugly heads and it died. I Now drive a 2002 Legnum and have retired the 2000 to spare parts duty.
Might be just a little bit scary to plastic or any other type of weld on a fuel tank in the car. The tank would have to be removed and cleaned out to remove all traces of fuel vapour, that or whomever does the job will probably qualify for Nasa's space program, If you ever come down that is.
trotty
3 AYC Bars
- Location
- nsw
- First Name
- Daniel Trotman
- Drive
- 2000 vr4 Legnum 5 sp man
2006 Suzuki Swift Sport 5 sp man
the tank just needs to be purged of oxygen as nothing can burn without it, not to mention plastic welding is done with a heat gun. no naked flame just a heated element and a fan to blow the super heated air....so could theoretically be done in car if its accessible.
PS i have welded diesel tanks and petrol tanks using argon(an inert gas) thats heavier than oxygen so deprives the fuel vapor of the other essential element to burn, i have also heard of people running exhaust gas into the tank to weld aswell...
PS i have welded diesel tanks and petrol tanks using argon(an inert gas) thats heavier than oxygen so deprives the fuel vapor of the other essential element to burn, i have also heard of people running exhaust gas into the tank to weld aswell...
Rabit
Leaving Skid Marks
- Location
- Qld
- First Name
- Robert
- Drive
- 2000 Legnum Mint with 44589ks when I got it. Now with black leather seats. After 3 years of fun some terminal engine bay wiring issues raised their ugly heads and it died. I Now drive a 2002 Legnum and have retired the 2000 to spare parts duty.
I have witnessed a professional welder with years of experience, welding a model A Ford fuel tank that had been uncapped for more than 20 years with no fuel in it get blown through a closed roller door, very dead and in more than one piece. You don't treat petrol vapour with disrespect. Better safe than sorry and most heat guns work by blowing air through a red hot coil.
trotty
3 AYC Bars
- Location
- nsw
- First Name
- Daniel Trotman
- Drive
- 2000 vr4 Legnum 5 sp man
2006 Suzuki Swift Sport 5 sp man
rabbit, im also sorry to hear you have witnessed a bad accident... never said it didnt have risks. but done right and you can do it safely....hence should be carried out by a professional.
Rabit
Leaving Skid Marks
- Location
- Qld
- First Name
- Robert
- Drive
- 2000 Legnum Mint with 44589ks when I got it. Now with black leather seats. After 3 years of fun some terminal engine bay wiring issues raised their ugly heads and it died. I Now drive a 2002 Legnum and have retired the 2000 to spare parts duty.
In the Hot Rod and car restoration world Fuel tanks are often repaired with a white epoxy type substance which may be of some use. You would have to remove the tank to use it but that is the only safe way to weld it up anyway because you would need to purge all the petrol vapour. Sticking the fuel neck over the exhaust of another running car for an hour or so is the cheapest way to go about it. The heat in the exhaust helps to evaporate all the fuel vapour from all the nooks and crannies.
my legnums tank was split exactly the same spot, i think it was when pickles lifted my car onto a car trailer with a forklift (guessing one of the forks went under the tank and as it lifted up squished the tank and burst it)
i tried the plastic fuel tank repair patches, they didn't work (well the stuff i had anyway, that was advertised as plastic fuel tank repair kit) the tank is made of polyethylene (or something like that) and the tank patch stuff says on it that they will not work with PE tanks (unless you remove the tank and heat it up to 80 degrees or something, but if you want to do that you may as well get it done properly!)
as has been said the tanks are a pain to remove.
The basics are
take the propshaft and exhaust off.
Take the metal cover off, this can be tricky as its wedged in between the tank and diff in an inconvenient spot, but basically i just undid the bolts and brute forced it off (its relatively thin metal so can be bent into a better shape with a bit of strength, also this help putting it back in later!)
then you undo the straps at the front of the tank (i left the back ones done up as they were very hard to get at from what i can remember)
at some point you need to undo all the pipes into it, there are two at the back (these are very fidely from what i remember, it may help to undo all the bolts holding the filler tube in just to give it a bit of play) and the fuel pump/return ones that you get at through the floor panel. also assorted electrical lines, think there's one at the fuel pump port and one more at the back passenger side of the tank (not so sure about this, was along time since i didi mine)
once thats done it is just the "simple" matter of taking the tank off, again it can be a pain because there's part of the tank above the front of the diff, and the tank tends to get itself wedged onto various parts of the chassis/diff.
i found the easeist way to get it off was to put some wood planks under the tank and putting jacks under them, then slowly lowering the front of the tank, it gets to angle where the tank can sort of slide down and forwards. its the down AND forwards that's critical! too far down and it fouls the diff, forwards and it fouls the chassis, too much of an angle and the raised bits at the back hit the chassis, too little and the tank wont go forwards.. but once you get the angles right it really does just slide out! (i know from experience, took ages trying to get it out, but once it got the sweet spot it took almost no time to get out)
putting a new or repaired tank back in is tricky aswell, but basically the reverse of the above.. probably the trickiest bit i had was re-connecting the fuel hoses at the back!
before i got a replacement i was considering getting the tank welded, there is a plastics place in SA (city plastics) that said they *should* be able to do it, they wanted to have a look to make sure but i never got that far. but they seemed fairly confident in being able to do it. they didn't seem too concerned about it being a petrol tank either (i made sure several times they were aware of it)
i tried the plastic fuel tank repair patches, they didn't work (well the stuff i had anyway, that was advertised as plastic fuel tank repair kit) the tank is made of polyethylene (or something like that) and the tank patch stuff says on it that they will not work with PE tanks (unless you remove the tank and heat it up to 80 degrees or something, but if you want to do that you may as well get it done properly!)
as has been said the tanks are a pain to remove.
The basics are
take the propshaft and exhaust off.
Take the metal cover off, this can be tricky as its wedged in between the tank and diff in an inconvenient spot, but basically i just undid the bolts and brute forced it off (its relatively thin metal so can be bent into a better shape with a bit of strength, also this help putting it back in later!)
then you undo the straps at the front of the tank (i left the back ones done up as they were very hard to get at from what i can remember)
at some point you need to undo all the pipes into it, there are two at the back (these are very fidely from what i remember, it may help to undo all the bolts holding the filler tube in just to give it a bit of play) and the fuel pump/return ones that you get at through the floor panel. also assorted electrical lines, think there's one at the fuel pump port and one more at the back passenger side of the tank (not so sure about this, was along time since i didi mine)
once thats done it is just the "simple" matter of taking the tank off, again it can be a pain because there's part of the tank above the front of the diff, and the tank tends to get itself wedged onto various parts of the chassis/diff.
i found the easeist way to get it off was to put some wood planks under the tank and putting jacks under them, then slowly lowering the front of the tank, it gets to angle where the tank can sort of slide down and forwards. its the down AND forwards that's critical! too far down and it fouls the diff, forwards and it fouls the chassis, too much of an angle and the raised bits at the back hit the chassis, too little and the tank wont go forwards.. but once you get the angles right it really does just slide out! (i know from experience, took ages trying to get it out, but once it got the sweet spot it took almost no time to get out)
putting a new or repaired tank back in is tricky aswell, but basically the reverse of the above.. probably the trickiest bit i had was re-connecting the fuel hoses at the back!
before i got a replacement i was considering getting the tank welded, there is a plastics place in SA (city plastics) that said they *should* be able to do it, they wanted to have a look to make sure but i never got that far. but they seemed fairly confident in being able to do it. they didn't seem too concerned about it being a petrol tank either (i made sure several times they were aware of it)
Blue legnum
Leaving Skid Marks
Will a PFL fuel tank fit yours?
vr4cobra
1 AYC Bar
my tanks fine tho
Blue legnum
Leaving Skid Marks
Hey Mark.
I've got a tank & you have PM.
cheers
I've got a tank & you have PM.
cheers
- Thread starter
- #19
Starting to think that the tank is not venting pressure properly. Mate of mine said it could be attributed to a blocked or faulty charcoal canister. Could this be the case? Where is it? Can it be replaced or cleaned? Cheers.
