HELP!!!! What have I fried?

[Zapata]

While changing all my interior lights to LED's I managed to short the rear festoon globe against the body. Didn't think too much of it at the time but later noticed that the keyhole illumination stays on all the time. It doesn't go off after 10 seconds or so like it is meant to.

Trawling through the US Galant manual in the chassis electrical system I found a section in the troubleshooting that has got me worried. It basically says that if the light stays on then it is most likely caused by either a short in the wiring or a problem with the ECU.

To test which one it is I need to disconnect connector C-134 from junction block (1).

Can anyone tell me where the junction block is and which connector it is?

Either way the car will be going to a sparkie but would be nice to be able to narrow it down a bit more before doing that.

 

[Johnny_k]

Is that out of the workshop manual?

 

[Zapata]

Yeah, that's what the workshop manual has to say.

 

[Guest]

You might have just blown a fuse, I've done the same thing a couple of times while tinkering and everything went haywire! Weird things happened that seemed totally unrelated. Are the interior lights themselves working now? Once I changed the fuse all was good again.

I think it was fuse #1 in the engine bay fuse box, check out the third photo down here:

http://ozvr4.com/forums/showthread.php?8667-VR4-Fuses-Cabin-and-Engine-Bay

 

[Zapata]

All the interior lights still work, but I will change the fuse anyway to see if it makes a difference.

 

[Zapata]

Checked the fuse, wasn't blown. The pins were a little black so I changed it for another one but didn't make a difference. The keyhole illumination light stayed on the whole time

 

[Guest]

Damn, I wish I had some other advice for you sorry. So according to that excerpt above it may have shorted a wire, perhaps by melting the insulation? There is an excellent guide to the connectors and pinouts of the ECU here on the forum, you can try unplugging it yourself and see if that helps.

http://ozvr4.com/forums/showthread.php?6395-ECU-Pin-Out-Complete-for-VR4

 

[sanchez]

You can check the insulation scenario above by disconnecting from the ecu and then bell the cables out, if you still have a circuit with the plug floating then you have a short between wires, if it's open then it's heading more towards the ecu.

 

[lathiat]

Just as an FYI if you are not aware its not your ENGINE ecu but the body / etacs module that would be the culprit (as opposed to the engine ecu)

stupid suggestion; what happens if you remove the globe you shorted.

 

[Zapata]

And the answer to the question is....

I damaged the ETACS ecu.

From what was posted here and some more searching of the forums I found an electrical wiring manual in the VR4 Manuals thread. While not been for our exact model it was pretty close and indicated that junction 1 was the fuse box under the dash and it also had a connector referred to as C-134. When I pulled the plug out the light went out.

Thanks to everyone for your suggestions on where too look.

For future reference if anyone else has a similar problem, the junction block is the fuse box in the cabin. In the image below (shamelessly stolen from Kat's fuse thread) you can see 2 plugs above R-3. C-134 is the one on the left, next to R-1.

So, next question is, does anyone have an ETACS ecu for sale?

 

[naughtika]

uumm what the heck is ETACS?

 

[Guest]

The thing that does most of the other stuff that's not related to moving

 

[VOLK]

http://www.mitsubishi-motors.com/en/spirit/technology/library/etacs.html

 

[GavDaniels]

Hey.

You might want to specify pre facelift or facelift. As I expect that they would be different. Not by much but the additional driving light would be etacs controlled. As would the additional functions in the facelift key remote.

Regards

Gavin

 

[ENEMY-1]

I may have a similar problem. My side mirrors won't auto fold away and my rev and speedo needle won't light up. Yet all fuses seem to be fine and I've changed the LEDs in the needles them selfs. The strange part is that all the gauges work perfectly. Any clue?

 

[fieldy107]

Yeah my needles don't light up either, But I know they work cause sometimes it will flash on for a few seconds

 

[ENEMY-1]

But another odd thing is that both my fuel and temp needles work perfectly.
I'll check my relays. Then if all else fails I'll have to go to a sparky

 

[fieldy107]

Yup same deal with mine, fuel and temp work fine. Not sure about mirrors, I dont use that feature. Sounds like we might have same problem, would love to know how to fix it.

Sent from my XT910 using Tapatalk

 

[VOLK]

Lancers get a similar issue from hairline cracks in the pcb behind the guages, lights stop working with low ambient temps. Maybe VR4s suffer this fault too?

 

[ENEMY-1]

If cracks are the cause of the needles not operating then why doesn't the auto hide feature on my mirrors work. They fold in and out easy it's just the auto function that doesn't seem to do anything