I successfully removed my restrictor (to the demise of a dental pick), but while giving the hose one last push on, I felt a crack (firstly inside the hose, then in my heart). Anyone know where I can get a replacement? Mike where did you get yours? Any help much appreciated...
I successfully removed my restrictor (to the demise of a dental pick), but while giving the hose one last push on, I felt a crack (firstly inside the hose, then in my heart). Anyone know where I can get a replacement? Mike where did you get yours? Any help much appreciated...
LOL @ then inside my heart.
I'm about to remove mine now (not my heart) so fingers crossed no cracking.
SiliconAngel
1 AYC Bar
Japan?
Rasi
Leaving Skid Marks
- Location
- Qld
- First Name
- Mike
- Drive
- 2001 Nissan Elgrand - Previously the "best" factory optioned 2000 Legnum (manual, suade recaros)hehe
I was fortunate enough to get it from a member on here. They had removed theirs due to having another boost controller, therefore no need for theirs anymore (thanks Lee).
I removed my resirictor today. Took almost 2hrs as I had made no prior forays into the engine bay. I didn't remove the entire solenoid to get the ristrictor out, just used a paper clip with a hooked end, worked round and round the inside trying to tap it out. Came out in one tap when ready, and I lost it in the engine bay lols.
Put everything back together and started it up and it conked it and ran very rough. Stressed for a bit, then noticed I hadn't connected the intake bhind the MAF sensor and it was just sucking raw air and not reading it lol. Fixed that up, then when reprogramming the ecu I didn't realize the AC was on when I first started the car, so ran with AC for 5 mins the with AC off (ie back-to-front from usual). Took it for a quick spin once warmed up and I got one random fuel cut around 4500 to 5000 rpm. Pulled over, everthing seemed fine, took off an didn't have a problem.
I'll take it for a 30 min spin later to make sure it's fine.. But should I reset the ecu again? I'm worried it's retarded the timing for no good reason because I didn't reprogram it correctly?
Put everything back together and started it up and it conked it and ran very rough. Stressed for a bit, then noticed I hadn't connected the intake bhind the MAF sensor and it was just sucking raw air and not reading it lol. Fixed that up, then when reprogramming the ecu I didn't realize the AC was on when I first started the car, so ran with AC for 5 mins the with AC off (ie back-to-front from usual). Took it for a quick spin once warmed up and I got one random fuel cut around 4500 to 5000 rpm. Pulled over, everthing seemed fine, took off an didn't have a problem.
I'll take it for a 30 min spin later to make sure it's fine.. But should I reset the ecu again? I'm worried it's retarded the timing for no good reason because I didn't reprogram it correctly?
ive noticed that any change to the engine/intake/exhaust/computer, will result in the car boosting a little weirdly for the first few minutes. then the computer will figure everything out.
take the car for a spin tomorrow and it will be fine.
take the car for a spin tomorrow and it will be fine.
G
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- #30
I can't really see how removing this restrictor pill is going to give you more overall power. I would have thought its purpose was to dampen the boost response. So by removing it then boost will appear to come on quicker when you press the throttle. If you are serious about getting more power then don't muck about and just get an MBC or EBC.
G
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- #32
thats all i did, ive got the turbosmart mbc, and it has the option of being able to remove the spring and ball inside the boost controller which then enables a smoother boost increase (eliminating spikes) im currently i think 2 knotches back from hitting boost cut on a cold night with the mbc(approx 13-14 psi), ive had it like that for ages prior to removing the restrictor, and what i noticed was the car pulling much harder. i havent actually reset the computer yet which i will try tonight to see if anything changes probably just less fuel consumption, sorry bout the reference to 'that company' guys. when i removed the restrictor i just used a small screw, wound the screw inside enough for it to grip and pull out the restrictor, no harm done
removed the restrictor today...seems quicker, also changes the air filter.
seems like there is more going on past 5000RPM.
it took awhile to get the actual restrictor out, other than that it seemed relatively easy (thanks to all the info on here).
tightend everthing up started the car....hmmm feels kinda rough...turn her off look in engine bay....oh i forgot to attach the power to the AFM...plug it in and restart...much better.
seems like there is more going on past 5000RPM.
it took awhile to get the actual restrictor out, other than that it seemed relatively easy (thanks to all the info on here).
tightend everthing up started the car....hmmm feels kinda rough...turn her off look in engine bay....oh i forgot to attach the power to the AFM...plug it in and restart...much better.
did this last week as well. damn that restrictor is a bitch to get out. thought about just clipping the end of the fitting off, but thought it might split. got a file and started filing down around the restrictor until i could get a screw driver in the groove i filed and flicked it out. seems to come on boost a little earlier and my stock boost is now reading 9psi, before was 8psi.
Tried this tonight with little success.
Got to it easy enough with the solenoid attached but couldn't get the brass restrictor out. I fail to see how a paperclip hook styles could fit through the restrictor
.
I couldn't even fit the one i had in there when it was dead straight. Must be about 1mm ID. Tried everything i had and have just given up and returned inside a broken man.
I'm going to remove it from the car and drill it out on the weekend.....then set the swarf on fire, then piss out the fire, then set the piss on fire.
Got to it easy enough with the solenoid attached but couldn't get the brass restrictor out. I fail to see how a paperclip hook styles could fit through the restrictor
.I couldn't even fit the one i had in there when it was dead straight. Must be about 1mm ID. Tried everything i had and have just given up and returned inside a broken man.
I'm going to remove it from the car and drill it out on the weekend.....then set the swarf on fire, then piss out the fire, then set the piss on fire.
Don't drill it out yet, sounds like you gave up too easy if you only tried one paper clip and didn't even get it in. I used a crochet hook, 3 different paper clips and a bobby pin. It wasn't a simply pull up and out either, instead I quickly jerked the wire with a tiny barb on the end up and down as there is a lip to catch on the restrictor. Do this round and round at all the points of the circle and it will come loose and pop out quickly when it's ready.
If you try this for 15min with no luck then yeah get the drill.. Otherwise I feel youre risking extra damage for no reason.
If you try this for 15min with no luck then yeah get the drill.. Otherwise I feel youre risking extra damage for no reason.
what i found to work was to use a pin and bend it back on itself like a fish hook (cut the end of the pin or it might pierce the plastic) this allows you to slide the pin into the ristrictor while grabbing the ristrictor as you try and pull it out. once i started this technique it only took 5-10 mins. i hope this helps.
I used about the same maybe a few more pins (the type you get in sewing kits).
oh and i did take one or two well timed breaks!
Good luck
