The Intercooler Thread

hawks

Leaving Skid Marks
Location
NSW
First Name
Mark
Drive
Sold my 1998 Legnum VR4 Type S
Thanks Carsten, I thought it might have be on the small side.

I might just have to get a 600x300 and cut the support bar.
 
G

Guest

Unregistered
Sorry thats just the pic of what it will look like
600x230x76
is what they have for us.

As for End tanks i believe that is a negative

Cory
 

hawks

Leaving Skid Marks
Location
NSW
First Name
Mark
Drive
Sold my 1998 Legnum VR4 Type S
Cory, I had one of the gktech coolers (check out the first few pages of this thread) but I sold it before I got my car because I thought it was too big.

See how you go with it. The end tanks are huge, if you look at Outlanded's posts on the previous pages you will see that there is not a lot of room to play with.
 
G

Guest

Unregistered
Im pretty confident that we will get it to fit, most places ive taken it to have assured me it wil fit pretty snug.
But im sure to come across some issues no doubt,

Cory
 

hawks

Leaving Skid Marks
Location
NSW
First Name
Mark
Drive
Sold my 1998 Legnum VR4 Type S
Thats the way, don't be scared :) be sure to post some pics up along the way. I might have to order another one!
 
G

Guest

Unregistered
Well im not really to fussed about my bumper not going back on if that helps...

Its going to be a custom front bar when we are finished with it, As its still cracked from when it was in transport just going to cut it left and right to even it up and Presto all done....
(Maybe)
haha
 

bradc

1 AYC Bar
Location
New Zealand
First Name
Brad
Drive
Facelift Manual 400hp VR-4 Legnum
I have a 600x300x100mm in my car, still with the stock bumper. The corners of the bumper are squashed up a bit, but it still fits in there fine :) There is a lot of room down there.
 
G

Guest

Unregistered
Negative on the intercooler #$%$^
the end tanks where the issue
Piping was out by about 4 inches on the passenger side,
The end tanks where sticking out to far of the intercooler,
Note to everyone, make sure the end tanks sit flat and dont flare out towards the bottom.....

So put the stock one back on, only took about 20 min to put everything back to normal, and about 45 min to get bumper intercooler off,
not to bad considering im a virgin at this....

so lets just say my first time was a bad experience

:(

Cory
 

hawks

Leaving Skid Marks
Location
NSW
First Name
Mark
Drive
Sold my 1998 Legnum VR4 Type S
Cheers for the udapte Cory. I will be looking for a 600 core with normal end tanks I think.

Good on you for trying it for all of us.
 

Outlanded

Leaving Skid Marks
Location
Queensland
First Name
Brent
Drive
97 Legnum VR-4
In regards to the coolers,

I have a 600/300/76 cooler, using stock plumbing atm,

the end tanks are a slight issue but it still plumbed up, as brad said the bumper gets squashed a bit but once my custom piping is done, there shall be no issues.

If any body has any questions re the mounting of the a fmc in a PFL PM me ill give you as much info as I can.

Cheers Guys

Brad-
Will a face lift bar fit a PFL ok? and how much are they roughly in NZ in pearl?

Thanks
 

bradc

1 AYC Bar
Location
New Zealand
First Name
Brad
Drive
Facelift Manual 400hp VR-4 Legnum
yep, they will bolt straight on no problems at all, although you will want a grill as well to line up properly with the bumper. As for the price, no idea. All of the usual spare parts places would be the best bet.
 
G

Guest

Unregistered
What a great thread to read.

Now my i/c is 600 (core)x260x76, it is a greddy and so is the piping.

I found that it just sits even with the top of the air dam so none of the i/c is wasted, yes i know it doesn't matter but at least it fits nicely.

That was a good pic that i took, shame the car can't look that clean all of the time.
 

hawks

Leaving Skid Marks
Location
NSW
First Name
Mark
Drive
Sold my 1998 Legnum VR4 Type S
Hey Ryan, where did you get your kit from and do you remember how much $$$ it was?
 

SiliconAngel

1 AYC Bar
Location
Perth, WA
First Name
SA, Trevor
Drive
'99 Legnum VR4 Black MT
Has anyone found black-anodised FMIC's? I've been looking but everyone seems hell-bent on shiny polished aluminium, but black anodised would perform better... especially when you're sitting in traffic - up to 8 or 9% better! Which will help eliminate heat-soak.

Hmm maybe I'll just get one and have someone anodise it... Anyone know of places in Perth doing anodising and electrolytic coating?

For those interested, here's some info on the subject from Dan of DansData fame discussing heat sinks, for all intents and purposes just smaller heat transfer units:
Is black better?

Recently, as part of our electronics course, we learned about the properties of heat sinks. The course notes (and exam mark schemes) claim that to make a heat sink more efficient it should be painted matte black.

I understand that this would make it more efficient, but my friend and I wondered why CPU heat sinks are not painted matte black? Most other heat sinks (attached to amplifiers etc) seem to be painted in this fashion, so why not CPU heat sinks?

Peter


Answer: Your course notes are right, and they're wrong.

A black object will, all things being equal, radiate heat better than one of any other colour. However, painting a shiny heat sink black may do nothing, or less than nothing, for its thermal performance, because the layer of paint acts as an insulator. The black colour must be an integral quality of the heat sink material, or a very thin, thermally conductive layer on the outside; black-anodised aluminium is a perfect example of a good black heat sink material. It's possible to put a useful thermal black patina on copper by putting it in a hot sodium hydroxide and sodium chloride solution bath (also useful for disposing of corpses), but that's neither a quick nor an easy process, so people usually only bother doing that for copper that's being used as a thermal absorber, as in solar water heaters, not on heat sinks.

This is because the colour of the heat sink matters less and less the more air you move over it. If the sink's hanging in vacuum (like the heat radiators on spacecraft that stop their own waste heat from boiling them) then it must be matte black; if it's sitting on earth being cooled by convection then it should be matte black; if it's got a bunch of forced air cooling from an attached fan then it doesn't matter a great deal what colour it is.

Again, all things being equal, a shiny aluminium heat sink with a fan on it won't work quite as well as a black one - but the difference will be small enough that the extra marketability of the shiny heat sink is likely to be the deciding factor.

A shiny fan-cooled copper heat sink, which can't easily be made black without pointless insulative paint, will work better than an aluminium one with the same dimensions, thanks to copper's rather higher thermal conductivity.
 
G

Guest

Unregistered
Sorry i don't know, it came with the car. But it was a jap import so it would of been done there. I was going to do it to my old vr4 and got quoted nz$1300 for a full hard pipe kit including cooler. I still have to pick all the paperwork from my mate (cardealer) soon, it should have all the mods done.
 
G

Guest

Unregistered
hey guys, just wondering what some people have been doing with their power steering hard lines in front of the intercooler when installing an after market kit?
do you move them or just shorten them?
 
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