Vibrations

TME_Steve

3 AYC Bars
Lifetime Member
Location
NSW
First Name
Steve
Drive
2010 nt did pajero tow car / 2000 6spd gc8 wrx tarmac rally car / 2000 Manual Subaru Outback 2.5 just a car
I was going ot say I didn't know of a cost effective way to fix the tailshaft, if anyone knows of one I'd be grateful. Also Simon, if you want to try it, I have a full set of driveshafts you can borrow.... Email me if you want them (steve@transformance.com.au)

How low is the car?
 

naughtika

OzVR4 Stalker
Location
Brisbane, QLD
First Name
Christian
Drive
'96 Galant VR4, '17 MB A180, '25 Macan GTS
The problem with the uni joints is they are staked in place . There are no circlipse holding them in place.
As far as mitsubishi is concerned you have to replace the entire drive shaft front to rear.( three pieces)

my dad looked at my spare tail shaft and also said that the Uni joints are non replaceable units.. :( i wonder if how much it'll cost as brand spanking new?
 

Schneider

Leaving Skid Marks
Location
NSW
First Name
David
Drive
PFL Legnum Vr4
I spoke to Chris from Meek about this briefly, the guys reckon it would be $1300+
Probably be cheaper to have custom one made up :eek:hmy:
 

Size1

Leaving Skid Marks
Location
N.S.W
First Name
Simon
Drive
00 legnum vr4
Car is stock height, replacement driveshaft is about $1500 us. If there is a will there is a way but first I need to pin point what needs replacing as it is still a guess at this stage. Is it a possibility that the rubbers suppprting the carrier bearings have sagged. Steve I will email you if it is the uni joint as I do have some ideas.
 

pitmac

Idling at the Lights
Location
NSW
First Name
Peter McCallum
Drive
EC5A
If you do a google search you will find a write up on one of the honda forums on how to replace uni's that are staked in place.
A lot of Japanese vehicle are made this way and how to replace them has been well covered in the US.
 

Size1

Leaving Skid Marks
Location
N.S.W
First Name
Simon
Drive
00 legnum vr4
Finally took my Legnum to MEEK today, and the bad thing is that the car did not want to play up at all. No vibrations whatsoever, I had a feeling on the way out there that the car was not going to vibrate. Probably because I took an RDO!!!! Very frustrating. I had planned to leave the car with them, but considering that they couldn't diagnose the fault they recommended that I wait until it gets worse and bring it back. What they did say which has reassured me somewhat is that it is not driveline related or from the transfer case as the vibrations would always be there or could easily be replicated. So this has pointed towards the transmission but they didn't say exactly what, just that it doesn't necessarily mean that it would prove to be a costly fix. I should have asked them to check for any error codes but I didn't think about it at the time, but I am now thinking that a solenoid may be playing up. This would explain the intermittent nature of the problem. When it does occur the car feels laboured so could it be TCC solenoid or something?
 

Size1

Leaving Skid Marks
Location
N.S.W
First Name
Simon
Drive
00 legnum vr4
I have now finally 100% identified what the problem was for anyone interested. It is much simpler than I expected and I did have my suspicions that this was the cause but could not say for sure. Any ways it was the tyres I was running that I am now running on my Hyundai i30. I could not believe the difference when I put them on. And it explains everything now, I have the exact same symptoms. Looking at the tread I am starting to think they are snow tyres too.
 

Brenton

Leaving Skid Marks
Location
Port Lincoln. South Australia
First Name
Brenton
Drive
97 PFL legnum
I've replaced the rear tailshaft universal, repco number KS-A652 - cup diameter 22.06mm & Length 64.5mm.part number comes up as mitsubishi staked. Pushed it out with a press (took quite a bit force), tidied edges where the crimped over metal tore off the yokes with a dyegrinder, pressed in and centered new uni and couple of dobs of weld on each end to secure.
 
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