Crank pulley removal

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HEy every1.

How the hell do you crack the crank pulley bolt on a 6a13tt? Is it LH thread or RH thread? Can't even rattle gun it off... According to the manual i need a tool but surely it should be able to rattle it off...

HELP ME PLEASE
 
I haven't done this on the VR-4 yet, but have done plenty of other cars. Generally unless you have a pretty serious rattle gun I found they aren't much help. I usually make/weld up a tool that locks into the pulley and rests on the ground to stop it turning. Then get the biggest motherucker of a breaker bar on to it.
 
Ok, here's a tip for you from CVR-4, use at your own risk:

right this is the dirty method

jack car off ground it must must on solid ground , remove cam and crank sensor plugs (top left had side ), put a 1 meter 1/2" breaker bar into the crank pulley nut , pull bar down until it touches the ground ( must be pointing towards the front of the car ) , open car window , turn key to start position for a fraction of a second , the starter motor will turn but the engine will not fire . This should break the nut loose

Do this method at your own risk , I have used it numerous times and if works quite well . if it does not work then I'm afraid you need to make or buy a crank pulley locking device and get the car high in the sky .

The worse I have seen is where we had to hang off two 6ft bars to try and break the cam bolt
 
damn that ghetto style

More ghetto style is the dudes that will tell you to put rope into the cylinders via the spark plug hole..:crying: You really have to wonder about that idea. I suppose it depends whether or not you mind if your engine ever works again. :sad:
 
Used the dirty method without a problem. The crank pulley on the VR4 is fairly brittle so don't expect it to still be in one piece if you use the locking tool method
 
More ghetto style is the dudes that will tell you to put rope into the cylinders via the spark plug hole..:crying: You really have to wonder about that idea. I suppose it depends whether or not you mind if your engine ever works again. :sad:

done the rope into the cylinder trick

not on a 6a13tt but on a 4age

when youve tried just about every thing and buying the gear puller/locker isnt an option, any remedy is good enough

did no harm to the engine
 
Used the dirty method without a problem. The crank pulley on the VR4 is fairly brittle so don't expect it to still be in one piece if you use the locking tool method

Peter, I read about that on the Camskill site and it had me concerned. Do you think it's worthwhile replacing the pulley at the 100,000km service? The pic they show of the fracture around the circumference is pretty frightening.
 
Rope (or power cable without plugs of course) works well. I use it regularly. Just make sure to have TDC, ie valves closed, or they'll be bent. Rock engine either 1/4 turn before or past TDC depending if you're loosening or tightening and insert cable.
 
can any of the mods please fix the thread title.. otherwise this'll be hard to find.. lol
 
I did it once on my spare engine that was simply sitting on a crate. We used a 6ft pole and one had to stop the engine from rotating while the other pulled on the pole. It worked well :)
 
CLASSIC! Shot for all your help A-team i did sum more research/stop being lazy and got my rule and vernier's out and made me a tool at work its game on now.Gota love being in profile cutting.
 
Good stuff Derek, if you can upload some pics it would be useful to those tackling the same job in the future. Cheers.
 
One way is to undo the small cover plate on the bellhousing and use a screw driver to jamb into the flywheel ringgear and the use a breaker bar on the crank pulley. It is a solid piece not like the old 4G63 4 cylinder one's. The bolt was the easiest part. The hard part was trying to pry it off the front of the crank. I used prybar's,rubber mallet and lots of swearing as well.

Scott
 
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