HELP!!!! ENGINE LIGHT IS ON

[jaygore]

Hey guys my car was running fine last night, i wake up this morning, turn it on and now i have the engine light on and it runs extremely rough, but the idle has stayed the same and is constant are there any ideas

 

[Fred]

Leads/coilpack(s)/plugs shagged. A Misfire will bring it on as it is emission related. It will start to flash if you keep driving.

 

[Kitty's VR4]

Jamie,

I'd be looking at the diagnostic codes to see if it sheds light on the issue....... how to here

Best way to diagnose dramas such as this !!

 

[jaygore]

thanks but i have no way to check the diagnostics :S

i opened up the bonnet, and it sounds like i have a vacuum leak right at the back of the bay, im guessing this is why it will be running rough

 

[Kitty's VR4]

Jamie..... you don't have a paper clip..... see if this explains it better

Diagnostic codes allow us to see any errors the ECU has logged without connecting up an MUT-II diagnostic computer or a laptop with EVO Scan. All you need is a paper clip or similar piece of conductive wire, follow the procedure below to put the car in diagnostic mode, and then check the error codes you see against the list provided. If you have questions or need further assistance, follow the link at the bottom of the article to go to the appropriate forum thread for discussion.

Diagnostic Connector / OBDII port

With the iginition on, but engine NOT running - ground Pin 1 to Pin 4 of the diagnostic/OBDII Port (using a bit of wire or paper clip) which is located by your left knee up under the dash on drivers side. You will then get the engine light, N of the trans, ABS, TCL and ASC (if you have them) flashing.

To read the codes it will be a series of long then short flashes, ie the TCL light flashing _ _ _ _ *pause*. . . . . indicates code 45 (if you get what I mean) There will be a very long pause between each code if you have more than one error code.

The connector looks this shape, and this is the pin configuration:

When you see (for example 1A) error codes with numbers and letters, these are HEXADECIMAL values. We count in groups of "10" (Base 10) whereas electronic components tend to count in lots of "16" (Base 16), otherwise known as HEXADECIMAL.

So...

1 = 1
2 = 2
3 = 3
4 = 4
5 = 5
6 = 6
7 = 7
8 = 8
9 = 9
10 = A
11 = B
12 = C
13 = D
14 = E
15 = F
16 = "10"

You say it sounds like a vacumn leak around the back of the engine bay...... could be pipe on firewall that goes to Vacumn Cannister or the solenoids that has split..... but this is a wild guess and is generally associated with the TCL being on as well

 

[jaygore]

oh k thanks for that, well i found the vacuum leak and fixed that (the rubber pipe was screwed) i then reset the computer by disconnectng the battery and pumping the break, but it still runs bad, looks like i need to take her to a mechanic, and im dead broke from other bills im in a pickle, oh well im sure i will figure it out

 

[bradc]

I would normally guess an air leak as well, best advice is to check everything again

 

[knickers]

Did you check the error code though?

 

[jaygore]

ok so i took it quickly to a mechanic and it is booked in for friday, but he thinks that it might be a cylinder, a spark plug, or the leads, so im hoping its a sprak plug, or the leads, if it is a cylinder then im not in a good place

 

[jaygore]

Leads/coilpack(s)/plugs shagged. A Misfire will bring it on as it is emission related. It will start to flash if you keep driving.

fred im hoping that you are on the money here... hahaha i will be happy if all its this... if a cylinder is gone im screwed

 

[Fred]

Usually the first things to go....especially the plugs. mine had no electrode left when i changed them !!! Plugs + leads a must anyways..

 

[SiliconAngel]

When did you last change your plugs, Jamie?

 

[Guest]

A couple platinums in my rear bank came from Japan like that, made a big difference with some fresh iridiums in there.

 

[jaygore]

well i would asume they were done at compliance :S hopefully this will make my car run alot better, as it chewed a quarter of my tank of petrol in a matter of 20kms :s although im not driving it at the moment

 

[Kitty's VR4]

LOL @ compliance............. assumptions are the mothers of all &^&&^&*&.

Jamie, did you try even pulling the diagnostic codes?? It might save you alot of money and grief, sorry I don't have to much faith in most motor mechanics integrity. At least going there with some idea of what the issue is may shed light to whether to use this mechanic in the future.

Its a pity that you reset the ECU, but if its still displaying same faults the diagnostic codes will be current.

 

[jaygore]

yea i havent had time to be honest, but my mechanic is from STI docklands, and is highly recommended, and have heard nothing but good news about him, he is really cluey when it comes to cars, and he mainly works on high performance vehicles, my mate swears by him so we will see how it goes... im just working way too much at the moment but its a good thing

 

[SiliconAngel]

well i would asume they were done at compliance :S hopefully this will make my car run alot better, as it chewed a quarter of my tank of petrol in a matter of 20kms :s although im not driving it at the moment

What ever lead you to assume that?? There's a list somewhere on here on what work the RAW has to do, it most definitely doesn't include changing the spark plugs! I don't want to sound rude, but seriously how can you expect a second hand car to perform properly if you haven't even serviced it? Change all fluids (none are done at compliance), filters (only air and 1 of 2 fuel done at compliance, your oil filter and transmission filter (if you have one) won't have been touched), plugs, leads and I recommend hoses and belts, too. Ignoring such basic and fundamental things like lubricants, plugs and filters that MUST be changed regularly and expecting your car to perform at all, let alone well, is just ludicrous.

 

[cyber_scriber]

Further to Trevor's post, here is a list of things that should be done during compliance:

http://www.ozvr4.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5913

As you will see, very few of those items relate to servicing / maintenance items.

Some compliance places are so lazy that they don't even do the items on the list!

 

[VR-04-TT]

Also check that the Air Sensor plug is securely attached. If it comes off it will run really really rough as has happened with my VR4 and my old magna.