Lean running Legnum on the dyno

Kaldek

2 AYC Bars
Location
Melbourne
First Name
Ed
Drive
2000 Legnum VR4 Manual, Ford Territory family runabout, BMW K1300R.
Wow there's some excellent info out there on the
how old are your engine mounts?

Im thinking that the ecu's sensing false knock?
Just reading about how the Mitsubishi ECU knock detection works now, from Merlin's Evo tuning guide.
 

TME_Steve

3 AYC Bars
Lifetime Member
Location
NSW
First Name
Steve
Drive
2010 nt did pajero tow car / 2000 6spd gc8 wrx tarmac rally car / 2000 Manual Subaru Outback 2.5 just a car
That log you posted looks like false knock. But I'll have a look at the one you emailed. Definitely check the roll stops as i said before though
 

Kaldek

2 AYC Bars
Location
Melbourne
First Name
Ed
Drive
2000 Legnum VR4 Manual, Ford Territory family runabout, BMW K1300R.
Yeah I think this front roll stop is shagged. That's gonna need replacing ASAP.

IMG_20141129_133359.jpg
IMG_20141129_133356.jpg
 

Kaldek

2 AYC Bars
Location
Melbourne
First Name
Ed
Drive
2000 Legnum VR4 Manual, Ford Territory family runabout, BMW K1300R.
Video of the mount. Definitely looks shagged.

 

d3ck5

Leaving Skid Marks
Location
Melbourne
First Name
Dexter
Drive
VR4, VR6
I am highly suspicious of urethane mounts. If they're so good, why don't cars come with them?

Usually nvh. Cost also and potential stress on other components.

Had them in all of my cars and love them.

Steve has a custom / ralliart solution that costs a bit more and requires you to have a / be pressed into the mounts. All rubber IIRC
 

Kaldek

2 AYC Bars
Location
Melbourne
First Name
Ed
Drive
2000 Legnum VR4 Manual, Ford Territory family runabout, BMW K1300R.
Mits Fix is good for oem.

You're not going to upgrade?
Not sure what I would get out of the upgrade? Also assume I need someone to press them into the mounts for me which is going to take time and money.
 

d3ck5

Leaving Skid Marks
Location
Melbourne
First Name
Dexter
Drive
VR4, VR6
Not sure what I would get out of the upgrade? Also assume I need someone to press them into the mounts for me which is going to take time and money.

only if you get rubber mounts.

the prothanes dont need pressing (from memory)

if youve never had harder mounts of any sort (on any car) then its a hard thing to explain. basically everything feels tighter and more responsive. the engine doesnt move as much and so it feels way more responsive. sure theres a slight increase in noise and engine vibration at idle, but its nothing you cant live with.

id do the prothanes over oem. if you can afford the cost (this time of the year sucks) the TME's might be more your thing
 

Kaldek

2 AYC Bars
Location
Melbourne
First Name
Ed
Drive
2000 Legnum VR4 Manual, Ford Territory family runabout, BMW K1300R.
id do the prothanes over oem. if you can afford the cost (this time of the year sucks) the TME's might be more your thing

OK, so the prothane product code is the ones you bought? And you fitted them yourself?
 

mookers

puri puri
Location
Frankston, Melbourne, VIC
First Name
Derek
Drive
CL9 Accord Euro Lux, GE Jazz VTi, Evil Supervillain Chair, Homemade Portable Square Drumkit
I remember seeing some photos that showed more plastic deformation over time (sagging) on a urethane mount than on a rubber one.
 

Dice

1 AYC Bar
Lifetime Member
Location
Gold Coast QLD
First Name
DiceR
Drive
Galant VR-4 2xT25bb
Nissan Cube
Some people (including TME_Steve) have had poly mounts get warped on their VR4s.

You should upgrade the roll stops because they perish faster than the other engine mounts. Get the stiffer ralliart roll stops from Steve. The upgraded rear will give some vibration to your steering wheel at idle, I don't mind personally but others might.

See his thread for details http://www.ozvr4.com/threads/rear-r...olution-and-other-mounts-available-now.12762/
 

Kaldek

2 AYC Bars
Location
Melbourne
First Name
Ed
Drive
2000 Legnum VR4 Manual, Ford Territory family runabout, BMW K1300R.
I remember seeing some photos that showed more plastic deformation over time (sagging) on a urethane mount than on a rubber one.
That's what I had heard too. Quoted $85 for new insert, $125 for swapover of my mount with another one that has the insert already pressed in.

I do not have a press (of all things), so I think this is my best short term option.

Anyway having said all that, my crossmember looks like it's been jacked wrong a few times and could be deformed. Wonder if that's not helped because it could be putting pressure on the front roll stop?
 

d3ck5

Leaving Skid Marks
Location
Melbourne
First Name
Dexter
Drive
VR4, VR6
fair bit of info here on the poly stuff.

http://www.clubvr4.com/forum/showthread.php?35704-Poly-engine-mounts&highlight=engine mounts

the link that i put up is from this thread.

its up to you if you want rubber or poly. both will give you the immediate desired outcome, as to which will last longer, i dunno, heads or tails?

it basically comes down to how much youre willing to spend. $400 or half? and how soon you need them.

ps: i'd do the lot in one hit if at all possible
 

Kaldek

2 AYC Bars
Location
Melbourne
First Name
Ed
Drive
2000 Legnum VR4 Manual, Ford Territory family runabout, BMW K1300R.
Ordering a custom roll stop from Steve.
 

naughtika

OzVR4 Stalker
Location
Brisbane, QLD
First Name
Christian
Drive
'96 Galant VR4, '17 MB A180, '25 Macan GTS
the reason behind the ralliart solid mounts was simply to avoid the ecu from detecting false knock

you sometimes get the NVH but its not enough o be really annoyed.. with auto's I don't think you actually do feel it as its more subtle
 
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