Something weird this way comes...

VR-04-TT

1 AYC Bar
Location
NSW
First Name
Paul
Drive
2005 Liberty 3.0R Spec B
Hey guys, I've got a few questions for the ICE gurus.

Firstly, I've got a cheapie ebay double din touch screen jobbie (not a bad for $224 delivered). I've checked the wiring on the supplied harness and the wiring in the car, which is hooked up correctly (12v permanent to the right cable and 12v acc to the right cable) but it drained the battery.

The little backlit lights on the bottom of the unit stay on no matter what. I checked the wiring from our guide here and everything is ok. Could this be that the labels on the H/U harness are back-to-front? I'm not sure if constant drain is a symptom of having them around the wrong way as I've never had a problem before.

Also, upon removing the ridiculous amounts of wiring left over from the old system, I've found a bunch of severed wires and plugs that look like they were once connected to something, but aren't anymore. I was wondering if anyone would know what they are/were. I'm wondering if this car had MMCS originally...

Here's some pics (click thumbnail for larger version):

Looking at the back of the dash from where the A/C unit sits:
[URL="
05092009014.jpg

You can see the severed wires in the middle.

Then on the floor of the same area:
[URL="
05092009017.jpg

You can see a wire hanging there with nothing connected to it.

This is it close up:
[URL="
05092009021.jpg

Labelled "ACC"...but not connected to anything? I thought this might be the source of the current draw, but it would've happened before the H/U install if that was the case.

There's also this:
[URL="
05092009020.jpg


Which has this tag:
[URL="
05092009019.jpg


And these, from around the bottom area too:
[URL="
05092009023.jpg


Any ideas, for both current draw and spare wires?

Cheers all!
 

cyber_scriber

1 AYC Bar
Location
NSW
First Name
Bruce
Drive
2000 Galant; metallic dark blue; manual; Recaros; Momo steering wheel; and sunroof!
Paul.

Did you connect the remote wire properly and not to a constant voltage straight from the battery? You might be using the wrong wire as the remote, which is giving the head unit constant power, even if the ignition is turned off. This would explain why the head unit lights remain on despite you pulling the key out.

My guess is that your remote power is wired to a permanent 12 volt, instead of a 12 volt supply that is only on whilst accessory is on.

To check this, get a multimeter and test the remote cable with the car completely off. If it is giving voltage, then it's the wrong wire.

The other potential problem is that your battery has had it or the alternator does not supply sufficient charge to keep the battery charged. I do not think this is the issue, given that this problem only arose after you installed the head unit.

Bear in mind though that normal lead acid batteries are not designed to be discharged and then recharged. In fact, being discharged just once can mean that the battery does not hold future charges very well, even after you jump start the car.
 

VR-04-TT

1 AYC Bar
Location
NSW
First Name
Paul
Drive
2005 Liberty 3.0R Spec B
Cheers Bruce.

On the head unit harness wiring it had two leads, one marked "ACC" and one "12v". There were no installation instructions (ebay cheapie), so I assumed the ACC meant the 12v ignition/accessories and the other one was permanent 12v.

The remote wire is not attached to anything, in fact nothing is labelled as "remote". There is one called "Amp Power" which I guess is another name for a remote wire as this will switch on the amp after ignition. The other thread I linked to says to connect this to the antenna signal to power the booster though. Perhaps not having a completed circuit is not allowing it to shut off completely?
 

king_panther

Gettin' tanked
Location
New South Wales
First Name
Brad
Drive
2012 VW Caddy 1.6TDI 7-Speed DSG. Still crappy DSG.....
I'm of no help, but I also bought a cheapie EBay unit & the lights around the dials were always permanently on too.

Never drained the battery though.
 
G

Guest

Unregistered
Hey Hey

Can u post a scan of the wiring diagram so I can figure out what goes were??

I also had a cheapie from ebay and had some issues with the backlights being on. All I did was ensure the remote wire for the amp was sucurely insulated and same with all the other unused wires. Try crimping all the connections or better yet solder them all once you know it works.

If all the cut wires under the dash are separate and insulated u wont have a problem just make sure they cant shotr onto the body.

do you have the power antenna working? if not the one that say connect to the antenna connect that to the +power lead to the antenna.

I should have asked does the head unit switch off once the car has been turned off?

And could you post a pic of the lights when they stay on?
 

VR-04-TT

1 AYC Bar
Location
NSW
First Name
Paul
Drive
2005 Liberty 3.0R Spec B
This is the unit I got and the row of buttons at the bottom stay lit, even when the key is removed:

%21B%28c3LmgCGk%7E$%28KGrHgoH-C4EjlLlyhrPBKcWpn2RG%21%7E%7E_12.jpg


I'll take a pic of the wiring diag that's on the unit itself and edit this post :D And I'll try the antenna thing, because I didn't hook that up to anything...I didn't know I had to *d'oh*
 

snickells

Leaving Skid Marks
Lifetime Member
Location
Australia
First Name
Anon
Drive
Car
Paul, we dont have power antennas mate, just leave the wire hanging there. It wont hurt anything.

For your back lighting issue, I'd just be checking with either a $2.00 test light, or a multi-meter, if the wire you tapped into for ACC (Ignition) is actually being controlled by the ignition system and is not actually just a constant 12v feed.
 

VR-04-TT

1 AYC Bar
Location
NSW
First Name
Paul
Drive
2005 Liberty 3.0R Spec B
It turns out it was as I suspected. The wires were labelled arse-about. I simply switched them around and it worked perfectly.

I hooked up the remote wire to the antenna signal just to see if it'd do anything, and straight away my radio reception increased dramatically. It's picking up coastal stations now :D

The only issue I have now is that the radio stations and EQ presets won't save. There is another wire called "Back" which I had no idea what it meant, but now I'm thinking it could be a battery backup wire?

I've installed little CD players before in other cars, but I've never had this much hassle, I've always just used the multimeter, found the right wires, and it's done. I guess I'm just having 'one of those days' lol
 

bdscott

Leaving Skid Marks
Location
Point Cook Victoria
First Name
Ben
Drive
98 FL Leggy
I guess that's the problem with buying an ebay cheapy, although when they work properly they are good value for money. Having a look at your photos, a couple of the severed wires look like speaker cables. I suggest chasing these wires and finding where they go and removing them if they are excess. When I did my car I spent a day just removing all the excess crap in the car and essentially turning behind the stereo back to stock. It's a bit painful but it is better in the long run. Ended up with about half a wheelie bin full of wiring I pulled out of the car. You obviously know a little about what your doing ie. acc is 12V only when ignition is on and 12V means a constant power source. Other than that, have fun
 

snickells

Leaving Skid Marks
Lifetime Member
Location
Australia
First Name
Anon
Drive
Car
I hooked up the remote wire to the antenna signal just to see if it'd do anything, and straight away my radio reception increased dramatically. It's picking up coastal stations now :D

Sorry mate, I'm a little confused here, what harness cable are you connecting your amp trigger signal wire to?

I know we have two antenna connections, but I've never seen a power connection there and I've never had any issues with AM/FM reception, On either VR4 :huh:
 

VR-04-TT

1 AYC Bar
Location
NSW
First Name
Paul
Drive
2005 Liberty 3.0R Spec B
I hooked the amp trigger, or remote, wire into the antenna power wire (white/black as per http://ozvr4.com/forums/showthread.php?t=312).

Sorry it was confusing how I wrote antenna signal. I'll be pulling it all apart again this weekend and removing unnecessary wiring. I've already removed about 30 feet of rubbish lol
 

minik1971

Leaving Skid Marks
Location
TAS
First Name
Nigel
Drive
White 1990 BMW 535i was a Black 1998 Legnum FL (written off)
The cut wires look to be the stacker cable as it looks like the same cable I pulled out of mine and passed ontp Dimi (except mine had a plug on the end). The other cables look to be cut RCA cables so I would suspect that as bdscot said above there is probably a stack of excess cables in the car from a previous amp install. I would suspect that the wiring harness for a car with MMCS or not would been the same except the MMCS would use an extra plug that the standard setup wouldn't. I doubt Mitsubishi would make 2 different harnesses, simply a case of weather the unit is there for the plug to be plugged into. Altought I could be wrong.
 

VR-04-TT

1 AYC Bar
Location
NSW
First Name
Paul
Drive
2005 Liberty 3.0R Spec B
Yeah non-gps. I know how to use a street directory ;) lol
 
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