standard speakers

[pu-11-me]

Yeah I woulda got the type-X's if I had a million more dollars

I picked up mine brand new for the same price as Type - R's. Just need to shop around

 

[Slinz]

Bargain! I ended up getting the type-R splits for about $200 though, their RRP was still a little out of my price range haha. On topic, I have noticed a big improvement in sound quality going FROM a really crappy 4 channel amp bridged to 2 channels to make enough power for the speakers, TO a good (not great but decent) 4 channel amp with enough power to not have to bridge. So don't blow all your cash on the speakers and then cheap out on the lowest price amp you can get Toto.

 

[pu-11-me]

Bargain! I ended up getting the type-R splits for about $200 though, their RRP was still a little out of my price range haha. On topic, I have noticed a big improvement in sound quality going FROM a really crappy 4 channel amp bridged to 2 channels to make enough power for the speakers, TO a good (not great but decent) 4 channel amp with enough power to not have to bridge. So don't blow all your cash on the speakers and then cheap out on the lowest price amp you can get Toto.

Yeah, amp is moreso important than speakers

I run my front splits bridged on a 4 channel.

 

[Slinz]

I was doing that because (as it sounds like you are) I was running stock rear's and the alpine fronts which need about 1000 times more power to make anything that sounds nice and because my amp sucked. New one puts out about 90w RMS per channel without getting hotter than my oven so I just run all 4 speakers off it. Bit of stuffing around with RCA splitters because my head unit only has 2 RCA outs but worth it.

 

[pu-11-me]

Yeah, my amp is only rated at 75WRMS per individual channel but to run the Type - X's I wouldn't want to use any less than 100WRMS per speaker so I bridged them. Its a Rockford unit so it makes more than that (As stamped from factory) but still not enough to run them per channel lol

 

[cyber_scriber]

Go with Dawso' suggestion - spend far more on the front speakers than the rear.

Lots of SQ guys don't even run rear speakers or only run the factory rear speakers.

Yes, make sure the front speakers have enough clean power. I'm running 200rms to my fronts and they love it with the gains all the way down!

 

[Guest]

Thanks for suggestions, I really appreciate it. I can't afford Type-X because there price get into huge import tax price-range. SO I'll go with full Type-R set, 6.5" components for front, 6.5" coaxals for rear and 12" Type-R sub in boot.

Just one question. HU I like, Sony XAV-70BT has 9 outputs, 4 pre-amped (for amp obviously), 1 for sub and 4 amped ones; as manual says they are 52 Watts on each channel; is this enough to run components on front and coxals on back? Or I'll need an amp in any case?

 

[pu-11-me]

Run an amp. Thank me later

 

[Guest]

Run an amp. Thank me later

I will

But reason I asked this, because I searched for an Alpine 4 channel amp, and it (MRP-F300) has approximately same 50 watts per channel... which if everything is straight as I understand makes no sense at all.

 

[TME_Steve]

A run an amp with more grunt than that and B amp power isn't the same as head unit power....Someone with more time can explain that better than I just did....

 

[ZEUSvsHADES]

That head unit wattage is a pmpo, I think the rms output of a head unit is something more like 15 and due to small power being supplied to the head unit that 15 wrms is split to each channel, resulting in roughly 3.75 wrms per speaker if all 4 speakers are being run of the head unit
do what dawso said and run an amp. you wont look back
i only have an amp for my subs, and i run all 4 speakers off my head unit, but thats because my bass is turned up that you can only hear music at the start and end of each song, and its just bass in between lol maybe with a little bit of sound but not much

 

[Mac Dog]

although with a 10'' sub it might sit very deep and end up taking up a whole heap of room anyway.

that's what she said.....

 

[steveP]

6.5" will fit in the front doors and parcel shelf. I got the exact same splits in both locations.

 

[Slinz]

that's what she said.....

Haha great, it happened.

As for running your speakers off the head unit, don't do it. I had to run my type-R's off the head unit for a couple of weeks while I saved up money for an amp, and the lack in power negates any benefit of having the better quality speaker. As Jared said those 52 watts are PEAK power (which means your head unit can't and won't push out that wattage for longer than a fraction of a second before it fries) rather than the amp's rating which would likely be RMS power (which means it is the wattage that the amp can make constantly, without failing).

Basically buy a good 4-channel amp that makes at least 80-100 watts RMS per channel, and run all 4 type-R's off it. Otherwise the whole system is a waste. You'll need a small monoblock amp to power your sub as well.

 

[cyber_scriber]

If you are on a budget, I'd suggest a 2 channel amp of at least 50 watts rms per channel to run your front splits.

You should either run no rears or a set of cheap, 2 way coaxials powered by the head unit for rear fill duties only.

If the budget stretches a little and allows for a sub, I would run a 4 channel amp. 2 channels to power the front splits, rears off head unit and remaining 2 channels bridged to run the sub.

If money is no object, then run a dedicated 2 channel amp for the front splits and a dedicated mono block amp for the sub.

 

[Slinz]

If the budget stretches a little and allows for a sub, I would run a 4 channel amp. 2 channels to power the front splits, rears off head unit and remaining 2 channels bridged to run the sub.

I was told by a car audio worker that doing this long term can cause issues with your amp, as this was what I originally intended to do with my 4-channel. Don't know if thats true or not but I didn't want to find out!

 

[pu-11-me]

The 4 channel bridged just won't run as efficiently as a Monoblock/Class D amp..... Never heard of it causing issues though

 

[cyber_scriber]

Dawso is right.

I've run and seen plenty of setups with bridged amps and they've gone years without drama.

Was this car audio worker trying to sell you a second amp at the time?

 

[Slinz]

Hahah no I would have been much more suspicious if that were the case, he's just a family friend who runs a custom car audio shop and helped me out with some of the install. He may just be talking out his arse and/or blew up an amp doing it and doesn't want to blame himself

 

[steveP]

Most likely he connected something incorrectly and fucked it up.

Bridging amps is something most people do and amps are designed to do.