standard speakers

[CANDEE]

You will want something like this:

I have removed the factory spacer, and have mounted mine directly to the door and have since sealed the spacer with Dynamat.

Im going to have to pull mine out and redo the hole size as I want to fit mids with a bigger cutout in there.

 

[Slinz]

That looks tidy, so you just bolted the mdf straight onto the door inner frame?

 

[CANDEE]

Correct. The screws that hold the factory spacer in have one of those plastic screw into thingys, and i just screwed it into that.

Mine are 12mm too. Have another set that I can take pics of if you need.

 

[Slinz]

Ah yeah sounds like a good idea. So you just used the factory screws through some 12mil MDF and into the plastic bits that hold the factory screws, assuming you had to drill some new holes in the pressed metal... Sounds like it wouldn't be too bad.

 

[CANDEE]

Ah yeah sounds like a good idea. So you just used the factory screws through some 12mil MDF and into the plastic bits that hold the factory screws, assuming you had to drill some new holes in the pressed metal... Sounds like it wouldn't be too bad.

I used some new screws as the factory ones are too short. No holes are needed except in the spacers.

Heres some pics of the basic spacer, just use the factory one as a template including the mounting holes.

Just make sure you get the cut out size right as each speaker is different even if they are the same size ie the one have is too small for my new mids:

And too big for my mates JVC's:

But the right size for my factory speakers.. lol

 

[Slinz]

Sweet thanks for the photos man.
Looks like I might need to enlist a family member with some woodworking skills/tools.

 

[cyber_scriber]

Did you mount the baffle in the existing space and remove the original mount? Or did you pop it on top?
Don't suppose you took any photos, I'm not much of a wood-worker lol.

Looks like Jeremy has already answered most of your questions.

If you want to see some more pictures on how to set up the MDF baffle, look here:

http://ozvr4.com/forums/showthread....lits-opinion-on-LANZAR-gear&highlight=dynamat

That is in fact, a 7 inch driver mounted in a VR-4 door.

Note the absorption material behind the driver and the rubber gasket around it, to ensure it's properly sealed.

If you wanted to go all tricky and audiophile, you could even plane down part of the baffle so that the driver angles at the opposite head rest. This helps with imaging and increasing the height of your sound stage.

 

[Slinz]

Cheers Bruce, I hadn't read through that thread before. Pretty useful although I've never used dynamat before - Pete here in SA volunteered his time though

 

[CANDEE]

My variation on the above thread is that you seal the door holes with cutouts from plastic trays or mdf rather than dynamatting the whole internal skin. This way you can get into the door if you need to replace anything without having to cut the dynamat.

 

[Poita]

The whole point of sound deadening is to lower the resonant frequencies of your door panels.

The whole point of sealing the service holes is to create as close to a sealed 'box' as possible out of the door, which is essentially a tin can full of holes.

So why would you only do half a job and use plastic or mdf without coating it in deadening?

Even more so if you are going to the effort of putting decent bigger mids in!

 

[CANDEE]

I wasnt saying that I wasnt going to coat it in deadening, but i can tell you that mcd's trays are pretty strong... lol

Pic as below(excuse the fozzie door used):

These doors had two of the ID mids pictured above in each door...