But the competing choice is... do I have the extra money and spare boot space 
For myself, I had the money and boot space in the Magna, but not in the Legnum. So unfortunately I can't get a sub... I will be getting something like Hertz splits which have a very powerful low end. I will miss the sub, but I can't have everything
For myself, I had the money and boot space in the Magna, but not in the Legnum. So unfortunately I can't get a sub... I will be getting something like Hertz splits which have a very powerful low end. I will miss the sub, but I can't have everything
But the competing choice is... do I have the extra money and spare boot space
For myself, I had the money and boot space in the Magna, but not in the Legnum. So unfortunately I can't get a sub... I will be getting something like Hertz splits which have a very powerful low end. I will miss the sub, but I can't have everything
How much space do you need? Surely you can get something that will not impact usable space?
There are a few guys here that have done installs under the boot floor for instance.
You should know that you will not get the required frequencies to be efficiently reproduced through the splits so why bother trying?
As a fellow audiophile, I expected better from you
VR4 6A13TT
Leaving Skid Marks
Put the sub and amp in the spare tyre well. All I did was build a box to suit and a false floor over that. Then the stock boot floor goes on top of it all so just looks standard! Sounds awesome and still all the room!
A dog + camping gear or ski gear and the need to lay the back seat down to fit stuff in occasionally means it really isn't practical. I could get a box made that I could remove when needed... I love that idea, but spending $3-$4k when I still owe money on the car and have a front yard that looks like a H Bomb it hit isn't really sensible!
Plus I spent so much time and money on my previous system that I really don't look forward to repeating it all over again, even though the current one makes me cringe I probably will over time, but with this car go fast bits are more appealing
And that my wife would probably kill me if I suggested it again... LOL I still get the "I bought the house and what did you buy?... The damn stereo!"
Plus I spent so much time and money on my previous system that I really don't look forward to repeating it all over again, even though the current one makes me cringe
I probably will over time, but with this car go fast bits are more appealing And that my wife would probably kill me if I suggested it again... LOL I still get the "I bought the house and what did you buy?... The damn stereo!"
Jase
Leaving Skid Marks
So If I run the following setup as:
- Alpine Headunit - CDA-117
- Alpine Type R 6.5” Splits Speaker SPR-60C (Front)
- Alpine Type R 6.5” Coaxial Speaker SPR-60 (Rear)
- Alpine Amplifier – MRX F30
Will this provide a decent system for good quality audio, remembering that I won’t be running a sub not because I don’t want to but because I really can’t afford the room. I just want double check everything before purchasing and investing money towards the system. Is it worth me getting the PDX4.100 amplifier or should the MRX F30 meet my needs.
Thanks again for your help Peter
- Alpine Headunit - CDA-117
- Alpine Type R 6.5” Splits Speaker SPR-60C (Front)
- Alpine Type R 6.5” Coaxial Speaker SPR-60 (Rear)
- Alpine Amplifier – MRX F30
Will this provide a decent system for good quality audio, remembering that I won’t be running a sub not because I don’t want to but because I really can’t afford the room. I just want double check everything before purchasing and investing money towards the system. Is it worth me getting the PDX4.100 amplifier or should the MRX F30 meet my needs.
Thanks again for your help Peter
The MRX F30 looks to only make 50w per channel at 4Ohms, which is a fair bit better than just running off the head unit but still leaves your speakers running off about half the power they like. I would be wanting something around the 100w per channel like the PDX4.100 and it'll still be easily small enough to mount under seats etc.
Having said that, the 50w per channel will run the speakers and it'll probably sound good. IMO if you're going to spend the money on an amp though, you may as well get one with the output to match your speakers.
Lastly don't be afraid to mix-n-match brands in your audio setup - just because you have Alpine speakers doesn't necessarily make an Alpine amp the best option but in the end its personal preference.
Having said that, the 50w per channel will run the speakers and it'll probably sound good. IMO if you're going to spend the money on an amp though, you may as well get one with the output to match your speakers.
Lastly don't be afraid to mix-n-match brands in your audio setup - just because you have Alpine speakers doesn't necessarily make an Alpine amp the best option but in the end its personal preference.
The splits and coxials will ne a nice combo.
The amp will do the job and sound great... Unless you like your music loud.
The amp doesnt need to match the potential demands of the speakers if you will never be running them at their full potential. But if you have the money the PDX amp is a very nice unit, will be better suited, and I will be jealous
Have a look on fhrx's website as often he has some awesome specials.
The amp will do the job and sound great... Unless you like your music loud.
The amp doesnt need to match the potential demands of the speakers if you will never be running them at their full potential. But if you have the money the PDX amp is a very nice unit, will be better suited, and I will be jealous
Have a look on fhrx's website as often he has some awesome specials.
Just a couple ideas using other brands based in the similar price bracket as the components you have mentioned. All is good gear.
Fronts:
Alpine SPR-60C RRP$349
Morel Tempo 6 RRP$338 but on special at FHRX
Morel Dotech MKII 6 RRP$569 but on special at FHRX. These would be VERY nice depending on how much you can get them for
Boston SC60 RRP$399
Rears:
Alpine SPR-60 RRP$229
Morel Tempo 6 Coax RRP$228 but on special at FHRX
Boston SC65 RRP$249
Amps:
Alpine MRX-F30 (4x50 watts @ 4ohms) RRP$349
Alpine PDX-4.100 (4x100 watts @ 4ohms) RRP$599
Zapco I-4100.4 (4x100 watts @ 4 ohms) RRP$899 but on special at FHRX
Response Precision Digital (4x100 watts @ 4ohms) RRP$349. Great option if you want to spend a little more on the cabling or front splits.
Fronts:
Alpine SPR-60C RRP$349
Morel Tempo 6 RRP$338 but on special at FHRX
Morel Dotech MKII 6 RRP$569 but on special at FHRX. These would be VERY nice depending on how much you can get them for
Boston SC60 RRP$399
Rears:
Alpine SPR-60 RRP$229
Morel Tempo 6 Coax RRP$228 but on special at FHRX
Boston SC65 RRP$249
Amps:
Alpine MRX-F30 (4x50 watts @ 4ohms) RRP$349
Alpine PDX-4.100 (4x100 watts @ 4ohms) RRP$599
Zapco I-4100.4 (4x100 watts @ 4 ohms) RRP$899 but on special at FHRX
Response Precision Digital (4x100 watts @ 4ohms) RRP$349. Great option if you want to spend a little more on the cabling or front splits.
I'm going to go out on a limb here and suggest not buying an Alpine amp. For the same money, you could get far better value for money.
I run a Rockford Fosgate R300.4 (Entry level Prime series amplifier) to run my front splits. I run them bridged for 150WRMS to each speaker. I run my rears off the HU which isn't a problem as I don't sit in the back so I don't have to hear it. The amp is only worth about $250 retail, and all Rockford gear is stamped with ACTUAL power. Mine runs an actual total RMS of 370W @ 4 OHMS bridged (Over the 2 channels), far greater than the model label might allude to!
I run a Rockford Fosgate R300.4 (Entry level Prime series amplifier) to run my front splits. I run them bridged for 150WRMS to each speaker. I run my rears off the HU which isn't a problem as I don't sit in the back so I don't have to hear it. The amp is only worth about $250 retail, and all Rockford gear is stamped with ACTUAL power. Mine runs an actual total RMS of 370W @ 4 OHMS bridged (Over the 2 channels), far greater than the model label might allude to!
Rockford make some good gear.
I personally try to avoid bridging where possible. There is a lot of debate around that bridging halves the damping factor of the amp, but modern amps have very high damping factors anyway, so most likely not an issue, but if I have the choice I don't just to be safe
I have only tried it once... I was running a Vibe Black Air II 12" sub off a 2x150W bridged to 500W and then upgraded the amp to a 1000W monoblock and to my ears anyway, it sounded nicer. Could just be my ears wanted to justify the upgrade though!
I would recommend the 4x100W Response if you are on a budget. You get the extra power but don't have to bridge
Or like my magna.. run the rears from the headunit (or turn them off!) and spend the money on a nice 2 channel amp for the fronts.
I personally try to avoid bridging where possible. There is a lot of debate around that bridging halves the damping factor of the amp, but modern amps have very high damping factors anyway, so most likely not an issue, but if I have the choice I don't just to be safe
I have only tried it once... I was running a Vibe Black Air II 12" sub off a 2x150W bridged to 500W and then upgraded the amp to a 1000W monoblock and to my ears anyway, it sounded nicer. Could just be my ears wanted to justify the upgrade though!
I would recommend the 4x100W Response if you are on a budget. You get the extra power but don't have to bridge
Or like my magna.. run the rears from the headunit (or turn them off!) and spend the money on a nice 2 channel amp for the fronts.
I would recommend the 4x100W Response if you are on a budget. You get the extra power but don't have to bridge
Or like my magna.. run the rears from the headunit (or turn them off!) and spend the money on a nice 2 channel amp for the fronts.
That is also a good idea!
I may be out of line here as a Noob round this forum but want to throw my 2c in re bridging as it seems to have reaered it's head a lot in this thread.
First up I'm not claiming to be an expert/guru etc just a guy who has played with his share of audio gear (both car and home) and finally knows what he likes
Coming from an SQ POV I won't bridge an amp anymore in any system i have anything to do with nor would i recommend it to anyone. As Poita mentioned bridging two channels will halve the damping factor - thereby reducing the effective control of the amp over the driver (but this opens up a contentious can of worms) but it also typically doubles the distortion output from the amp channel which IMHO counters most of the gains achieved from having the extra power on tap(
FWIW I also think that 50 watts a channel and up is typically enough to deliver quality sound at SPLs above what most people will enjoy in a car type environment. Again the caveat to this logic is running reasonably efficient speakers (ideally 92db w/m or thereabouts), a decent noise floor (quiet cabin, low interference, silent passengers etc ) and a quality speaker installation.
Of course more headroom is rarely a bad thing but when amp shopping it pays to not get stuck on the numbers as most reputable brands still under-rate their amps power output capabilites and plenty of brands do the exact opposite so it's very hard to compare on sales brochures and even worse if you're listening to the drone at JB etc...
1 more point wrt amps and power is that for every 3db gain in SPL you will need to double your systems power output. 10db is generally accepted as a doubling of perceived volume so to get your system playing twice as loud requires a ten fold power delivery.
In most car environments (with limited power available thru standard 12v car systems) it is much easier and often cheaper to lower the noise floor with better sound deadening (making for a more comfortable ride even when your not cranking the tunage), using more efficient speakers and higher quality components all round (cleaner signals to amplify for example) than be chasing more and more power from bigger and bigger amps.
All IME obviously and YMMV
Sorry for waffling...
First up I'm not claiming to be an expert/guru etc just a guy who has played with his share of audio gear (both car and home) and finally knows what he likes
Coming from an SQ POV I won't bridge an amp anymore in any system i have anything to do with nor would i recommend it to anyone. As Poita mentioned bridging two channels will halve the damping factor - thereby reducing the effective control of the amp over the driver (but this opens up a contentious can of worms) but it also typically doubles the distortion output from the amp channel which IMHO counters most of the gains achieved from having the extra power on tap
(FWIW I also think that 50 watts a channel and up is typically enough to deliver quality sound at SPLs above what most people will enjoy in a car type environment. Again the caveat to this logic is running reasonably efficient speakers (ideally 92db w/m or thereabouts), a decent noise floor (quiet cabin, low interference, silent passengers etc
) and a quality speaker installation.Of course more headroom is rarely a bad thing but when amp shopping it pays to not get stuck on the numbers as most reputable brands still under-rate their amps power output capabilites and plenty of brands do the exact opposite so it's very hard to compare on sales brochures and even worse if you're listening to the drone at JB etc...
1 more point wrt amps and power is that for every 3db gain in SPL you will need to double your systems power output. 10db is generally accepted as a doubling of perceived volume so to get your system playing twice as loud requires a ten fold power delivery.
In most car environments (with limited power available thru standard 12v car systems) it is much easier and often cheaper to lower the noise floor with better sound deadening (making for a more comfortable ride even when your not cranking the tunage), using more efficient speakers and higher quality components all round (cleaner signals to amplify for example) than be chasing more and more power from bigger and bigger amps.
All IME obviously and YMMV
Sorry for waffling...
Fair point Steve, I thought there was a bit of a trend in the thread for bridging full range channels - maybe i was tired and read wrong!
I agree that for the most part sub channels are more forgiving but again, if it were me i would spend a little extra and get a decent monobloc for the sub or run it off 1 channel of a 3 or 5 channel amp... if it was a matter of budget i would save for longer and do it 'right' (as in my opinion of right - not that it's gospel ) rather than bridge a 2 ch.
All this of course from a guy who's boomer days are long gone and ultra high SPLs just don't interest me that much
I agree that for the most part sub channels are more forgiving but again, if it were me i would spend a little extra and get a decent monobloc for the sub or run it off 1 channel of a 3 or 5 channel amp... if it was a matter of budget i would save for longer and do it 'right' (as in my opinion of right - not that it's gospel
) rather than bridge a 2 ch.All this of course from a guy who's boomer days are long gone and ultra high SPLs just don't interest me that much
someone sell me a sub & amp for $100 or less please!
i have decent SQ (for my ears anyway) from my speakers which i'm 100% certain were changed in Japan, but want a little more "doof".
My car came wired from Japan for sub in the rear, which they removed but kindly left RCAs, power etc all ready for another sub.... and i dont have much $$ so want something 2nd hand for $100 for both
i have decent SQ (for my ears anyway) from my speakers which i'm 100% certain were changed in Japan, but want a little more "doof".
My car came wired from Japan for sub in the rear, which they removed but kindly left RCAs, power etc all ready for another sub.... and i dont have much $$ so want something 2nd hand for $100 for both
http://www.boostcruising.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=709987
http://www.boostcruising.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=741123
http://adelaide.gumtree.com.au/c-Stuff-for-Sale-stereo-audio-Needs-to-go-asap-W0QQAdIdZ293426662
...Obviously not the world's highest quality audio gear but hey, got a serious budget!
http://www.boostcruising.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=741123
http://adelaide.gumtree.com.au/c-Stuff-for-Sale-stereo-audio-Needs-to-go-asap-W0QQAdIdZ293426662
...Obviously not the world's highest quality audio gear but hey, got a serious budget!
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