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It is discontinued and SPN M07016 says it's not essential anyway and you can install the valve body without it.
I've found a workshop that said they're more than happy to attempt this I think, they asked me if I'd supply parts or if they should source them of their own accord... thoughts on whether it would be worth supplying or not?
*edit*
Just realised I can swipe across the price list etc in the first post... oops
Just want to double check, those parts are the final updated list of requirements for doing this? And would be what I need to order if I was sourcing for the workshop?
*edit*
Just realised I can swipe across the price list etc in the first post... oops
Just want to double check, those parts are the final updated list of requirements for doing this? And would be what I need to order if I was sourcing for the workshop?
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Supply the parts yourself. If the workshop prefers to take the transmission out of the car, and most will because it makes the job easier, then there are some other bits and pieces I'd recommend doing at the same time. If you've already found bits of wave spring then removing the transmission will allow a better inspection for any other remaining pieces.
You'll also need specialised sealant for the covers, get some Threebond 1207C off Ebay as it's identical to the genuine transmission sealant. The valve body gaskets have been "deleted" and there is a bulletin from Mitsubishi saying they weren't really needed anyway. I suggest being very careful removing the valve body and trying to preserve your gasket in case you want to reuse it, they tear easily. The metal seal rings listed aren't really necessary to replace.
Unfortunately I never really wrote a proper guide up and my posts were more documenting what I found along the way. I pretty much followed the transmission workshop manual though.
I'm pretty sure they were gonna drain it first to inspect the plug to see if the spring went bang or not then we would decide if it came out or just did the replacement and welding the planetary sets etc with it in there.
What would the rough eta be to get a kit made up? I'd be keen, can let them know and see what they say too.
If the box comes out what else would be recommended? Would like it to be as bulletproof as possible. I've seen uprated clutch packs etc in my reading; how beneficial would they be though
Would get new rear main seal and torque converter seals too if it came out.
I shall order the sealant and just prepare some notes of everything to be kept in mind so I just don't forget everything I want to tell them haha. Eg that valve gasket.
Yeah I did notice that haha, hence why I just wanted to clarify some things, butttttt! It's one hell of a read and very well done man haha, extremely helpful.
What would the rough eta be to get a kit made up? I'd be keen, can let them know and see what they say too.
If the box comes out what else would be recommended? Would like it to be as bulletproof as possible. I've seen uprated clutch packs etc in my reading; how beneficial would they be though
Would get new rear main seal and torque converter seals too if it came out.
I shall order the sealant and just prepare some notes of everything to be kept in mind so I just don't forget everything I want to tell them haha. Eg that valve gasket.
Yeah I did notice that haha, hence why I just wanted to clarify some things, butttttt! It's one hell of a read and very well done man haha, extremely helpful.
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You'd probably be wasting your money doing anything more than the usual planetary carrier pin welding and wave spring. If you aren't having any problems with it at the moment and haven't found wave spring pieces then a full rebuild is unnecessary. After a rebuild there's also a chance that it may never be the same again, in a bad way. It can become very expensive trying to rectify things and you wouldn't be the first.
Mitsubishi don't offer a full rebuild kit, and all the clutch packs and other individual items total into the thousands. Aftermarket rebuild kits are around but vary in quality, the one I had experience with had some parts that didn't fit and others that seemed inferior to the original items.
So if you are still keen to do a full rebuild, your only option is aftermarket. In that case go with the workshop's preferred supplier if you want the process to go as smoothly as possible and have the best chance of success.
More useful information and videos.
How to put the one-way clutch in:
If you get it wrong, the car will drive fine in reverse, but will barely drive in the forward direction. You will burn up the OWC and will need to replace it if you get it wrong. Ask me how I know ;-)
An EXTREMELY detailed F5A51 manual:
http://shop.ukrtrans.biz/wp-content/uploads/catalogs/F5A51.pdf
Above file is unfortunately too large to place permamently on the forums. Link will probably go dead in the future.
How to put the one-way clutch in:
If you get it wrong, the car will drive fine in reverse, but will barely drive in the forward direction. You will burn up the OWC and will need to replace it if you get it wrong. Ask me how I know ;-)
An EXTREMELY detailed F5A51 manual:
http://shop.ukrtrans.biz/wp-content/uploads/catalogs/F5A51.pdf
Above file is unfortunately too large to place permamently on the forums. Link will probably go dead in the future.
Hi guys, new member here, just wanted to give you some info on the F4a42/52 etc etc.
I work in the transmission industry and have rebuilt this box personally.
You do not need to remove the trans to replace the wave spring. The valve body needs to be removed to replace the wave spring. If the rebuilder needs to remove your transmission go elsewhere.
The trans is so well known in the industry you dont need to go to a specialist imo. Its the magna box afterall.
You dont need to full the clutches out. Just make sure you dont miss a clutch with the planets, sun gears. You can do this by pulling the planet out after getting it right in, and the clutches so all be lined up on a slight angle. If you dont sit the gears in all the way, when you go to put the rear cover on there will be a gap between the case and cover. Dont force it, it should sit flush before you put on the bolts.
5 hours is being generous to change the wave spring.
You can get rebuild kits and valve body gaskets from AllTranz Thomastown in Melbourne.
The F4a transmission do break wave springs but what is even a more of an issue is when the torque converter splines get grinned away by the trans input shaft. So if any of you guys lost drive and could regain it this is the most likely cause. This cause is way more common, just go speak to a torque converter re builder, it happens so much. Mitsubishi used inferior material in their torque converters they say.
Rebuild kit with seals and clutches, rebuilt torque converter, new steels (reuse the stepped plates) you are looking at roughly $800 retail. So just giving you an idea this is what parts will come to AT A MINIMUM.
Torque converters can be rebuilt at Roadblaster in Thomastown. $250 roughly.
Flare/Bump in 2-3 shift? Its the seals on the rear cover. Change these and the issue does away. Don't do your shift adapts it doesn't work!
Hope this helps you guys,
Cheers
I work in the transmission industry and have rebuilt this box personally.
You do not need to remove the trans to replace the wave spring. The valve body needs to be removed to replace the wave spring. If the rebuilder needs to remove your transmission go elsewhere.
The trans is so well known in the industry you dont need to go to a specialist imo. Its the magna box afterall.
You dont need to full the clutches out. Just make sure you dont miss a clutch with the planets, sun gears. You can do this by pulling the planet out after getting it right in, and the clutches so all be lined up on a slight angle. If you dont sit the gears in all the way, when you go to put the rear cover on there will be a gap between the case and cover. Dont force it, it should sit flush before you put on the bolts.
5 hours is being generous to change the wave spring.
You can get rebuild kits and valve body gaskets from AllTranz Thomastown in Melbourne.
The F4a transmission do break wave springs but what is even a more of an issue is when the torque converter splines get grinned away by the trans input shaft. So if any of you guys lost drive and could regain it this is the most likely cause. This cause is way more common, just go speak to a torque converter re builder, it happens so much. Mitsubishi used inferior material in their torque converters they say.
Rebuild kit with seals and clutches, rebuilt torque converter, new steels (reuse the stepped plates) you are looking at roughly $800 retail. So just giving you an idea this is what parts will come to AT A MINIMUM.
Torque converters can be rebuilt at Roadblaster in Thomastown. $250 roughly.
Flare/Bump in 2-3 shift? Its the seals on the rear cover. Change these and the issue does away. Don't do your shift adapts it doesn't work!
Hope this helps you guys,
Cheers
The kits these days are bang on, maybe the steels are a bit off sometimes its nothing to complain about. Rear main, you'll be stupid not to do it as its easy to do with the trans out. Torque converter seal comes part of the rebuild kit.
The valve body seal costs stuff all you'll be stupid not to change it during a wave spring change.
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How did you do the spring on the picture #1Some shots just for the hell of it. Heh, this auto looks in perfect condition and fortunately it seems to have the stronger wave-spring in it already.
Pic 1: Some other spring
Pic 2: Wave Spring
Pic 3: Money shot
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Can you tell which one it is from this diagram?
Hmmm I need part 214, 232 and 233 but not on your attachament graphic. Can you look here?
http://www.fzth.de/fileadmin/user_u...f4a4b_f4a42_w4a42_f4a51_w4a51_w4a5a_f5a51.pdf
232, 233
and here is 214
p.s F5A51 has got the same 214,232 and 233 parts as F4A51?
Look here: number 658 is the same part as 214 in previous link? http://www.repuestoscambiosautomaticos.com/archivos/pdf277_A5HF1.pdf
http://www.fzth.de/fileadmin/user_u...f4a4b_f4a42_w4a42_f4a51_w4a51_w4a5a_f5a51.pdf
232, 233
and here is 214
p.s F5A51 has got the same 214,232 and 233 parts as F4A51?
Look here: number 658 is the same part as 214 in previous link? http://www.repuestoscambiosautomaticos.com/archivos/pdf277_A5HF1.pdf
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