Ok just had a good look under the car and I think Ive found the Problem. There is a good oil leak coming from the gearbox in the seal on the far passenger side. So off to get a quote for a rebuild.Have I read somewhere on the forum that it is the same gearbox as a verada magna mine is a 2001 fl is this right or am i dreaming things cheers guys.
The Automatic Transmission Thread
- Thread starter pu-11-me
- Start date
PUDG3_VR4
The Unlucky One....
Where are all the sensors for the flashing Neutral light? Happened to me last night on the way home. Thought it was heat and babied it home.
Went to go out this morning and Neutral is still flashing when in D.
Any help would be muchly appreciated.
If anyone has spare time and a code puller I'd be over the moon
Went to go out this morning and Neutral is still flashing when in D.
Any help would be muchly appreciated.
If anyone has spare time and a code puller I'd be over the moon
G
Guest
Unregistered
The flashing neutral light can be a number of things, you will need to pull the codes first and find out exactly what the errors are. For this, you only need a paper clip or short piece of wire.
http://ozvr4.com/forums/showthread.php?7107-Random-lights&p=124769&viewfull=1#post124769
If it turns out to be either the input or output shaft sensor, they are on the top of the transmission and can be accessed by removing the airbox and a couple of other bits. The output shaft one is dead easy to get to, remove the airbox and it's right there.
I thought I had posted a guide for the input shaft sensor, but maybe not as I can't find it. Here's the steps to access it though:
The input shaft sensor is mounted on the top of the automatic transmission casing, directly below the thermostat housing and underneath the front turbo intake pipe.
Replacing the input shaft sensor:
1. Remove snorkel & entire air box.
2. Remove inhibitor switch bolt & lift off metal L bracket.
3. Pinch the shifter cable's plastic tabs where it passes through the cable guide bracket and slide it up & out.
4. Unbolt the front cable stay/riser, near the inhibitor switch.
5. Unbolt the cable guide bracket, wiggle it out towards front of car and remove.
6. Locate the sensor, underneath the front turbo intake pipe.
7. With a blow gun & some carby cleaner, spray all around the sensor making sure all dirt is removed. It must be 100% clean otherwise dirt will fall into your transmission when you remove the sensor. There usually is a lot of crap accumulated around there such as bits of disintegrated conduit etc.
8. Unbolt the sensor
9. Give it a wiggle & remove! I gently grabbed it with pliers at its bolt hole.
Installation is the reverse of the above
http://ozvr4.com/forums/showthread.php?7107-Random-lights&p=124769&viewfull=1#post124769
If it turns out to be either the input or output shaft sensor, they are on the top of the transmission and can be accessed by removing the airbox and a couple of other bits. The output shaft one is dead easy to get to, remove the airbox and it's right there.
I thought I had posted a guide for the input shaft sensor, but maybe not as I can't find it. Here's the steps to access it though:
The input shaft sensor is mounted on the top of the automatic transmission casing, directly below the thermostat housing and underneath the front turbo intake pipe.
Replacing the input shaft sensor:
1. Remove snorkel & entire air box.
2. Remove inhibitor switch bolt & lift off metal L bracket.
3. Pinch the shifter cable's plastic tabs where it passes through the cable guide bracket and slide it up & out.
4. Unbolt the front cable stay/riser, near the inhibitor switch.
5. Unbolt the cable guide bracket, wiggle it out towards front of car and remove.
6. Locate the sensor, underneath the front turbo intake pipe.
7. With a blow gun & some carby cleaner, spray all around the sensor making sure all dirt is removed. It must be 100% clean otherwise dirt will fall into your transmission when you remove the sensor. There usually is a lot of crap accumulated around there such as bits of disintegrated conduit etc.
8. Unbolt the sensor
9. Give it a wiggle & remove! I gently grabbed it with pliers at its bolt hole.
Installation is the reverse of the above
PUDG3_VR4
The Unlucky One....
Found me a paperclip and pulled 3 codes to do with trans. (Everything else wasn't showing anything so I guess that's a plus lol)
Codes were 31, 32 and 36. I checked the list and don't know what the abbreviations stand for?
Codes were 31, 32 and 36. I checked the list and don't know what the abbreviations stand for?
G
Guest
Unregistered
The output shaft sensor is to the rear of the engine mount, and yes it does have a bolt.
Is that a photo of your actual transmission? Because the clip for the solenoid harness has come off and may have something to do with the problems you are experiencing.
Those codes are showing problems with the following solenoids:
31 Low and reverse solenoid valve system - Short circuit/open circuit
32 Underdrive solenoid valve system - Short circuit/open circuit
36 Damper control clutch solenoid valve system - Short circuit/open circuit
It's suspicious that all these solenoids would have problems at once, so I'd be inclined to say the external harness, connector or internal harness wiring is damaged.
Is that a photo of your actual transmission? Because the clip for the solenoid harness has come off and may have something to do with the problems you are experiencing.
Those codes are showing problems with the following solenoids:
31 Low and reverse solenoid valve system - Short circuit/open circuit
32 Underdrive solenoid valve system - Short circuit/open circuit
36 Damper control clutch solenoid valve system - Short circuit/open circuit
It's suspicious that all these solenoids would have problems at once, so I'd be inclined to say the external harness, connector or internal harness wiring is damaged.
PUDG3_VR4
The Unlucky One....
I had reattached that plug when I did the code checks.
Have pulled off, contact cleaned and reseated all of the plugs (visible) that lead into the auto trans, and still spitting out theses codes
Bit dis-heartening considering I've only had the beast for a week...
Have pulled off, contact cleaned and reseated all of the plugs (visible) that lead into the auto trans, and still spitting out theses codes
Bit dis-heartening considering I've only had the beast for a week...
king_panther
Gettin' tanked
- Location
- New South Wales
- First Name
- Brad
- Drive
- 2012 VW Caddy 1.6TDI 7-Speed DSG. Still crappy DSG.....
You've had an easy start then compared to some of us out there...
G
Guest
Unregistered
More like an elevator ride for some people...
G
Guest
Unregistered
You should to disconnect the battery for a couple of minutes to clear the codes, then see if they come back again.
Did you re-fit that metal ring to the top left of the connecter? And did you take that off yourself, or was it already off? That shouldn't need to be removed to disconnect the connector.
Did you re-fit that metal ring to the top left of the connecter? And did you take that off yourself, or was it already off? That shouldn't need to be removed to disconnect the connector.
G
Guest
Unregistered
You need to work out what pins on that connector go to what solenoids, then check the resistance for each. I will have a look in my garage tomorrow and see if I have a spare harness to work out what pins are what, but I am pretty sure I gave it away to someone.
If they are ok, then next check the continuity from there connector back to the A/T ECU and that all related plugs are ok.
If that's OK then you can try swapping in an identical A/T ECU and see if that solves the problem, however they are matched to the transmission variant so this might prove difficult to find.
This might be of help to you too:
http://ozvr4.com/forums/showthread.php?6441-A-T-ECU-Pinout-(Complete)-Series-1-Auto-Transmission-ECU
If you start at the ECU end of the harness you should be able to work out which ECU pins go to what pins of the solenoid pack connector, then you can test each solenoid after that.
If they are ok, then next check the continuity from there connector back to the A/T ECU and that all related plugs are ok.
If that's OK then you can try swapping in an identical A/T ECU and see if that solves the problem, however they are matched to the transmission variant so this might prove difficult to find.
This might be of help to you too:
http://ozvr4.com/forums/showthread.php?6441-A-T-ECU-Pinout-(Complete)-Series-1-Auto-Transmission-ECU
If you start at the ECU end of the harness you should be able to work out which ECU pins go to what pins of the solenoid pack connector, then you can test each solenoid after that.
vr4cobra
1 AYC Bar
Im not sure on any good ones in Brisbane.can only tell where NEVER to go... Dont think there is any out our side of town
PUDG3_VR4
The Unlucky One....
Been sitting on it all day and am biting the bullet.
Going to order solenoids, master kit w/steels & internal harness from Cobra. Figured might as well fix the wave spring before it becomes an issue
Aussie dollar is good at the moment too, which is nice
Going to order solenoids, master kit w/steels & internal harness from Cobra. Figured might as well fix the wave spring before it becomes an issue
Aussie dollar is good at the moment too, which is nice
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