This might sound really stupid!!!!

king_panther

Gettin' tanked
Location
New South Wales
First Name
Brad
Drive
2012 VW Caddy 1.6TDI 7-Speed DSG. Still crappy DSG.....
I remember someone on here was trying to turbo an ST-R weren't they?

Wonder if they're still around as they gave up due to government regulations & was going to go VR4...
 

king_panther

Gettin' tanked
Location
New South Wales
First Name
Brad
Drive
2012 VW Caddy 1.6TDI 7-Speed DSG. Still crappy DSG.....
How about the AYC? Would it need to disconnected or could it be hooked up with the ST-R engine ?
 

king_panther

Gettin' tanked
Location
New South Wales
First Name
Brad
Drive
2012 VW Caddy 1.6TDI 7-Speed DSG. Still crappy DSG.....
I am reading that the 2.4 GDI puts out the same torque as the 2.5 V6 but even at a lower rev point. Nearly the same kW too, but much less fuel consumption.

It's listed as having full time 4WD & the INVECS 5-sp box too.
 

bradc

1 AYC Bar
Location
New Zealand
First Name
Brad
Drive
Facelift Manual 400hp VR-4 Legnum
Let's go back & revisit the ST-R theory;

What would be required in transplanting an ST-R engine into the VR4 ?
They are also 4-speed autos too aren't they?
Would an ST-R engine match up to a VR4 INVECS 5-sp box?
You'd need to swap for an ST-R ECU too?

Any shit required to keep the government happy? Hey might bring the insurance premiums down too....

I'm interested. :)


1. Physically it should just drop straight in
2. Yes :(
3. Possibly...noone knows yet
4. Yes
 

bradc

1 AYC Bar
Location
New Zealand
First Name
Brad
Drive
Facelift Manual 400hp VR-4 Legnum
How about the AYC? Would it need to disconnected or could it be hooked up with the ST-R engine ?


The AYC system doesn't look to the turbos as such. However it does look to various speed sensors which would obviously still exist with an ST-R engine, but I don't know if there are any differences or anything. Probably 80% chance it will work.
 

bradc

1 AYC Bar
Location
New Zealand
First Name
Brad
Drive
Facelift Manual 400hp VR-4 Legnum
I am reading that the 2.4 GDI puts out the same torque as the 2.5 V6 but even at a lower rev point. Nearly the same kW too, but much less fuel consumption.

It's listed as having full time 4WD & the INVECS 5-sp box too.


The 2.4GDI engine is a sack of poo. It doesn't like going over 3000rpm, uses more fuel, requires 98 octane, and GDI = bad news in general. Don't do it.

You are right about the gearbox though, the 5 speed in the 2.4 is better than the 4 speed in the 2.5.
 

king_panther

Gettin' tanked
Location
New South Wales
First Name
Brad
Drive
2012 VW Caddy 1.6TDI 7-Speed DSG. Still crappy DSG.....
Thanks for the tips Brad.

Would I have to settle for the 4-sp auto if I dropped in an ST-R engine?
Or is there a chance of mating it to the 5-sp ?

It's an interesting idea... depends on what the outlay is going to be as opposed to selling up & getting a different car.
 

bradc

1 AYC Bar
Location
New Zealand
First Name
Brad
Drive
Facelift Manual 400hp VR-4 Legnum
There is more chance of using the VR-4 5 speed tip than a 2.4 gdi 5 speed, I can tell you that much!
 

king_panther

Gettin' tanked
Location
New South Wales
First Name
Brad
Drive
2012 VW Caddy 1.6TDI 7-Speed DSG. Still crappy DSG.....
The top section of Paul's post is exactly what I'd do. Fortunately the exhaust, ecu and intake can come straight from an ST-R. No idea if you'll have to change the loom. As for comp ratio, you can get 8.5 (VR-4), 9.0 (jdm 6a13 n/a) and 9.5 (euro and nz 6a13 n/a)

The comp ratio for the NZ & Euros are higher than Japland? Any reason for that? What does the higher comp ratio equate to? Better fuel economy? More power?

As comp ratio (posted elsewheres) was controlled mechanically, am I able to achieve the necessary ratio by getting the mechanicals from an ST-R?
I forgot about the exhaust yea... as I would no longer having dump/down/front (?) pipes coming off the turbos.
The ST-Rs didn't have AYC so I'm thinking that can be removed as well as the ST-R ECU would have no idea of it? Or is it controlled independently?
Been eyeing TradeMe or Googling for ST-Rs now.... this is getting intriguing.
Can any issues be forseen with this hybrid setup as the 6A13 NA are SOHC whereas ours are DOHC..

Aussies - Can anyone think of any rules/regulations I might be breaking if I thought about going ahead with this ?

EDIT - Sorry Brad just read your earlier post regarding the AYC!
 

Mortz

Leaving Skid Marks
Location
Tweed Coast, NSW
First Name
Luke M
Drive
1997 Legnum VR4
I'm sure you already have considered this Brad but if you sell either of your Leggie's for a loss you might as well not bother, and there are a fair few Leggie's around atm. If you lose money on the sale/s then that will negate the extra cost for servicing, fuel etc for a VR-4 over an ST-R.
 

bradc

1 AYC Bar
Location
New Zealand
First Name
Brad
Drive
Facelift Manual 400hp VR-4 Legnum
I don't know why the Euro ones had a 9.5 CR, it is especially strange considering that the JDM ones were 130kw, Euro were 125kw, then later 121kw (emissions) The 121kw models had cats and O2 sensors everywhere.

I am semi keen on getting the 9.5 pistons for my ST-R, but it is a hell of a lot of work for a very small gain, it would make more sense to go straight to mivec heads, an ecu and 11:1 or something CR
 

ygoslo

1 AYC Bar
Location
Victoria
First Name
Tim
Drive
91 Silvia, 97 Galant
I'm sure you already have considered this Brad but if you sell either of your Leggie's for a loss you might as well not bother, and there are a fair few Leggie's around atm. If you lose money on the sale/s then that will negate the extra cost for servicing, fuel etc for a VR-4 over an ST-R.

Worth quoting for truth. Also applies to doing an ST-R engine swap. Would really need to do your sums and work out whether it would be worth it. How much more economical is the N/A motor? Seeing as it isn't particularly difficult to get 10 litres/100km out of a VR4...

If you were getting rid of the Legnum and getting a newer car you could maybe make an argument for it, but if you're swapping an engine into a car that's already old you'd need to be very careful that you're going to get enough life out of it to justify the expense, and also that you're not just going to have to continue spending money on bits other than the engine. Remember that no matter how new the engine is, the chassis and all the original parts will still have 220,000+ kms on them.

You also may have to get an engineer's certificate to make the transplant legal, depending on the laws in NSW.
 

bradc

1 AYC Bar
Location
New Zealand
First Name
Brad
Drive
Facelift Manual 400hp VR-4 Legnum
I think it is a waste of time too. We don't know how much work is needed to fit the engine in and will cost around $2k for labour alone I reckon.
 

pu-11-me

and put an LSD in it
Location
NSW
First Name
Dawso
Drive
VW Touareg
Part out your white car and go get a forester Brad, solves all of the problems (Except the fuel RON will still need to be at least 95 for their high comp motor)
 

king_panther

Gettin' tanked
Location
New South Wales
First Name
Brad
Drive
2012 VW Caddy 1.6TDI 7-Speed DSG. Still crappy DSG.....
Part out your white car and go get a forester Brad, solves all of the problems (Except the fuel RON will still need to be at least 95 for their high comp motor)

Dawso's post makes Brad cry :cry:

Might be an announcement on here soon...
 
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