Urgent! Need help!

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Hi

Allrighty, I posted a few pics of my car last week I think. The car is still at the shop but one problem remains. The car has a steady idle and is steady on 5000rpm and up. Between that, the injectors seem to go crazy. They work kinda this way:
. . . . ....... . . . . ....... . . . . ....... and so on.

They open just fine for a second, then they open really fast as displayed above, making a "dzzzzz" sound caused of the fast openings. The rpm falls due to the over supplyment of fuel.
The guys at the shop disconnected the TPS (throttle positioning sensor) with out it, the car runs perfect on every rpm, but it when hitting the throttle fast, it "lags" because of the disconnected TPS.

I have a e-mail between Haltech and the shop that probably explains it better than I do:

Hello Paul

I noticed I already had installed the latest firmware. I installed the latest Halwin and started everything up. Here's what i found.

Calibration of TPS:
Calibration went perfectly. Nothing strange, no flickering of voltage etc.

Enabling throttle pumps:
As soon as throttle pumps were enabled, car started the same bad behaviour as last time.

Filtering TPS:
I went into the filtering menu and started with a low filter level. Applied the changes, but problem was still there. I gradually increased the level and applied the changes after each time, until I reached maximum filter level. Still problem was there.

Adjusting throttle pump enrichments:
I went back into throttle pump settings to see if enrichment values were strange. They all seemed fine. Then I saw a problem there. I have attached a picture. On the top right, there is an engine data box. Where it says throttle position, the value is not stable. It flickers between 0% and 100% (nothing inbetween, just those two figures), when I'm not touching the throttle. When I am depressing the throttle let's say 50%, the value there flickers between 0, 100 and 50%. That was very strange.

So I closed that meny and opened up the engine data box from the data menu. I have attached a picture. That TPS-value is perfect. No flickering what so ever, always stable at the right amount. Nothing strange at all.

So I went back to double check TPS-calibration and see if there was any flickering there, but nothing. Everything was perfekt.

Finally I went back to the Throttle pumps setting and checked TPS reading there. As previously there was lots of flickering of the value in that box.

Something is weird. Can't figure out how to solve it. Hope you have some ideas.

I presume the TPS's are identical between the Auto VR4 and the Manual VR4. Everything worked like a charm on the Auto VR4.

Here´s the printscreens:

EngineData-TPS.jpg




Throttlepumps-TPS.jpg
 
Is it worth doing a swap between the Manual Throttle position sensor and the Auto one, just incase the TPS has failed and it's just coincidence?
 
Car info:

Galant VR4 -01 Manual 5-speed

Mods:

Haltech E8 ECU
2*TD04´s
Custom plenum
Custom stainless pipes around engine
Custom downpipes
Custom 3" stainless exhaust
Custom oilfeeds to/from turbos
Oilfilter reloacationkit
Aeromotive BTR
Blitz SUS Power
OS Giken clutch
Bigger IC
530cc low ohm injectors
Blitz dumpvaulve
Oil cooler
Wallbro 255L fuelpump
Battery in boot
New bigger/harder throttlewire (had to be longer because of the reloacation of the throttlebody, se pics)
Greddy racing sparkplugs
EVO 4-6 Aluminum radiator

I have the readout of various signals like injectors, cams, triggerwheels, PIN2 homesignal, PIN26 trigger etc etc.

Please help me out here!

DSC01198.jpg

SANY0016.jpg
 
Is it worth doing a swap between the Manual Throttle position sensor and the Auto one, just incase the TPS has failed and it's just coincidence?

That´s our next thing to do if Haltech doesnt give us a good answer. The problem is that the Auto VR4 has left the shop a while ago. But I´ll try to find a sensor somewhere I guess.

But the sensor cant be broken, cause in one frame of the Haltech, the values are correct and perfect and match the actuall throttle position. In the other frame it keeps jumping from 0% -100% all the time.
 
When I was investigating the E8, Haltech told the tuner I was speaking to that the 6A13 crank/cam sensor setup isn't supported and a custom sensor would need to be used. What are you running on your car?

cheers

Lee
 
Hey i know the problem one of the injectors isnt pluged in

See who said i wasnt that mechanical lol :-P

nah im not that bad, but damn thats one modified machine, what sort of power are you getting at the wheels now with all the mods ? or doesnt it go lol
 
Hey i know the problem one of the injectors isnt pluged in

See who said i wasnt that mechanical lol :-P

nah im not that bad, but damn thats one modified machine, what sort of power are you getting at the wheels now with all the mods ? or doesnt it go lol

Lol.....

When I was investigating the E8, Haltech told the tuner I was speaking to that the 6A13 crank/cam sensor setup isn't supported and a custom sensor would need to be used. What are you running on your car?

cheers

Lee

I have read the same information somewhere, i think Lee might be on the right track
 
It's not the fact that the sensor has 3 lugs and you need to chop two of them off?
 
if I remember correctly Pierre's already got a modified one. As he said though, in some sections the Haltech is detecting the TPS perfectly. It's just the throttle pump enrichment menu where it's playing up.

Any chance of getting another Haltech ECU Pierre? Sounds to me like you've got a faulty unit there... It happens.
 
Any chance of getting another Haltech ECU Pierre? Sounds to me like you've got a faulty unit there... It happens.

It does indeed. A mate of mine had horrible problems with his Haltech, ended up sending it back to Haltech twice for repairs before he could get the car running.

The problem with that is that it seems to be almost impossible to diagnose...
 
Rubbish - diagnosis is merely a process of elimination. The fact is there is only one part of the Haltech that is showing erratic sensor readings, the others are perfectly fine. There is no WAY I would bother looking at anything else without first replacing the Haltech with a unit (Haltech or otherwise) that is KNOWN to work correctly.

I do this sort of thing for a living - I have thousands of dollars of parts I use purely for diagnosing problems with faulty components. Currently ALL evidence points towards the Haltech. Pierre's done a great job getting this far, but I see no way forward without replacing the ECU, even if its just a further step in diagnosis (if the same results are consistently seen with different ECU's, then clearly its something else).
 
As SiliconAngel said, the triggerwheels are allready modified.

I´m on the same track, it feels like the Haltech and its software or something doesnt speak the same language.

Dont have ant hp numbers yet, when everything works it´ll be going to the rolling road for some final mapping. Then I´ll have some papers for you guys.
 
Another option would be to downgrade the firmware a couple of versions.

To have the TPS being reported differently in 2 parts of the system strikes me as a likely candidate for programming error.

EDIT: Oh, and assuming it isn't that hard to change the firmware then its always worth a go. Then of course you have one more possibility ticked off your list.
 
Sorry to highjack your thread Pierre but did modifying the trigger wheel stuff with the tacho reading or factory behaviour of the aircon etc?

I'm looking at an E8 as well and wondered how many hours it would take a decent tuner to install.

cheers

Lee
 
A downgrade of the firmware would be one thing to try. The Haltech didnt have the latest firmware, so the shop upgraded it and added a Halwin program from Haltech thats supposed to reduce the signals for a unsteady throttle and eaven things out. That program did not have any affect at all. I´ll call the guys at the shop later tonight and see what they have come up with during the day.

I dont think the mod to the triggerwheel did any affect on the aircon stuff.
 
pierre, is that the HKS injector that u r using? It looked the same with mine.

Anyway, my friend will be working on the haltech E8 on my car some time next week. I'll be updating if i got something work out.
 
Hi

Problem solved. The firmware was f***ed up.

The car was working fine. I got it from the shop on Friday, pushing 1.2bars. Went from the garage out to the freeway, went from 2nd to 3rd....pushed down the pedal. I was pushed back in my seat, the turbines began to make that interesting sound that we all crave.....was about to handle 4th.....BABOOOM!...some screws came flying from the airoutlets on the bonnet....
New problem:
DSC00198.jpg


The company who made it for me.....is simply paying for another, better, harder, plenum.....
 
Holy crap Pierre!! Great to hear the cars up and running and not so good with the plenum going poo!!! Hope the new plenum goes better than that. How many pounds/bar are you hoping to push by the end of tuning?:D

Any chance of the company mass producing the new plenum?
 
I was pushing 1.2bars. worked fine.....for a while. I´ll probably start a thred about my car.

The new plenum is NOT going to have the same construction. I want a cylinder shape (as I told the tuning company in the first place)
 
Fantastic work on the ECU, I'm really glad to hear it was sorted out with upgraded firmware!

Now that plenum... I always shake my head when I see rectangular plenums - they have horrible airflow profiles. Ok, so its a hell of a lot cheaper to make a rectangular one than properly flowed, but then you've got to work out what you're trying to achieve - if it involves cost cutting, maybe high performance cars isn't the answer. Not having a go at you there Pierre, but the designer.

I'm also flabbergasted that they used screws to seal the plenum instead of welding all the seams - that's just crazy! :banghead:
 
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