Where are the BIG car audio places in Sydney these days?

pu-11-me

and put an LSD in it
Location
NSW
First Name
Dawso
Drive
VW Touareg
that system would be useless.
Number 1. you are under powering the subs
Number 2. 3 pairs of splits is pointless and why would you go alpine splits out of all the brands.
Number 3. you dont need a graphic equalizer with pretty digital graphics if you are running amps because a good stereo tuner will have all the levels on the deck at 0.
Number 4. caps are a waste of time and money and are just wank. for the cost of a cap you could buy a proper battery like an optima yellow top and do the job properly.

Number 1. Agreed, go for something a bit ballsier than that
Number 2. 1 set of good splits would be better than than three sets of entry level ones. You would buy Alpines as the 2008 range is magnificent. They now have near MB Quartz clarity and the Type X i have are loud as the proverbial (with 150WRMS per speaker of course ;))
Number 3. Yeah no NEED for a graphic equaliser.... they look cool but :)
Number 4. I wouldn't do a system again without one. I HAD a yellowtop in my ute + uprated alternator. Still had 2 volt drops when the subs hit. 2 Farad cap = no more voltage drop. And before you ask, yes it was wired properly with big enough cable and earthed properly. And it did make a difference in sound for long low bass notes too.

If you go to a stereo joint where they know their stuff they'll probably tell you what you do and don't need anyway :)
 
G

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Unregistered
Number 1. Agreed, go for something a bit ballsier than that
Number 2. 1 set of good splits would be better than than three sets of entry level ones. You would buy Alpines as the 2008 range is magnificent. They now have near MB Quartz clarity and the Type X i have are loud as the proverbial (with 150WRMS per speaker of course ;))
Number 3. Yeah no NEED for a graphics equaliser.... they look cool but :)
Number 4. I wouldn't do a system again without one. I HAD a yellowtop in my ute + uprated alternator. Still had 2 volt drops when the subs hit. 2 Farad cap = no more voltage drop. And before you ask, yes it was wired properly with big enough cable and earthed properly. And it did make a difference in sound for long low bass notes too.

If you go to a stereo joint where they know their stuff they'll probably tell you what you do and don't need anyway :)
not one stereo place has ever told me a cap is worthwhile, the one place that has was jb hifi
 

pu-11-me

and put an LSD in it
Location
NSW
First Name
Dawso
Drive
VW Touareg
not one stereo place has ever told me a cap is worthwhile, the one place that has was jb hifi

I got told to do the cap after the rest of the stuff i had done.... Not really necessary until you get into the big gear, running subs @1OHM etc...
 
G

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1F capacitors, even with low ESR are completely useless for car audio, since they store very little energy between the battery voltage and the alternator voltage. Combined with the fact that virtually all car audio amplifiers have regulated power supplies (read: they are less efficient at higher input voltages due to a less efficient duty cycle).

Basically 1F capacitors are for bling and for those who don't understand mathematics. Anecdotal observations don't apply.

As for 1. well 500w (continuous and RMS equivalent) is enough power if you don't want the subs to heavily overpower the rest of the speakers - except if you didn't want that, then you wouldn't be using two subwoofers either.

Three pairs of splits will indeed sound shit.

The best systems have one high quality pair of front speakers and 'rear fill'. Rear fill does not equal rear speakers. The purpose is to aid the stereo image from the front speakers, which typically means that the rear speakers will be bandpassed (midrange only). Some signal filtering will often be used too - time alignment and signal filtering to remove the mono signal, leaving just the panned signals.

If you are not going to that much trouble, then concentrate entirely on the front speakers.

Graphic equalizer does not equal a graphical display. Graphic equalizers use fixed frequencies and fixed Q (bandwidth or 'peakyness'). This is a graphic equalizer:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Image:Behringer_3102_equalizer.jpg

And I daresay a 31 band graphic equalizer can be used to overcome some of the shortcomings of car audio. However if it is not used properly, it can also make your system sound shit. (a flat response on an RTA is not the same as a flat response at your ear because they have different impulse response - the RTA sums the signal over time.)
 

pu-11-me

and put an LSD in it
Location
NSW
First Name
Dawso
Drive
VW Touareg
Yeah no NEED for a graphic equaliser.... they look cool but :)

This is what i meant dude, i love these things... Would never use one i don't think though. Very bling bling :)

0612_caep_01z+rockford_fosgate_3sixty2_processor+3sixty2_processor.jpg


And interesting what you mention about the caps.... I have heard and seen systems with 1F that still have massive voltage drops whilst driving (with yellowtop or equivelent and 0 gauge cable etc) whereas the 2F actually stopped mine doing it. Hmmmmmm

*ponders
 

matchtheclown

Time p33nt
Location
nsw
First Name
hugh
Drive
99 VR-4 Type S Man
What do voltage drops do though? Just from an electrical point of view.. if the amp is under powered to much it wont function at al. A +/-1 or 2 Volts wouldn't effect the function of most electrical equipment at all.
 
G

Guest

Unregistered
This is what i meant dude, i love these things... Would never use one i don't think though. Very bling bling :)

0612_caep_01z+rockford_fosgate_3sixty2_processor+3sixty2_processor.jpg
Um I have a 3SIXTY installed, thats how I was able to keep the MMCS and stock controls, I needed it to convert the speaker wire to RCA for the amp and for tuning. Got it pritty cheap though what's why I got one.

But an aftermarket head unit would be a lot easier and cheaper.
 

Chris Rogers

Leaving Skid Marks
Location
QLD
First Name
Chris Rogers
Drive
wagon
This is what i meant dude, i love these things... Would never use one i don't think though. Very bling bling :)

0612_caep_01z+rockford_fosgate_3sixty2_processor+3sixty2_processor.jpg


And interesting what you mention about the caps.... I have heard and seen systems with 1F that still have massive voltage drops whilst driving (with yellowtop or equivelent and 0 gauge cable etc) whereas the 2F actually stopped mine doing it. Hmmmmmm

*ponders

I have a 360.2 myself and I like it. mainly used for time delay in my case.


give me a budget to work with and I'll put something together for you when I get a sec.

as for caps - agree with Architectonic,

waste of time.
 
G

Guest

Unregistered
Then why do I get fluctuations in my headlights when the subs are running with out a cap but when I use the cap they dont at all?? Just asking??

I dont think they do much for the amp but more the rest of the systems on the car.
 
G

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Unregistered
if you had a better battery you wouldnt get the fluctuations in your head lights or internal lights
 

happymatch

Leaving Skid Marks
Location
nsw, Newington
First Name
jono
Drive
Maza Astina 323, Merc C Kompressor
that system would be useless.
Number 1. you are under powering the subs
Number 2. 3 pairs of splits is pointless and why would you go alpine splits out of all the brands.
Number 3. you dont need a graphic equalizer with pretty digital graphics if you are running amps because a good stereo tuner will have all the levels on the deck at 0.
Number 4. caps are a waste of time and money and are just wank. for the cost of a cap you could buy a proper battery like an optima yellow top and do the job properly.

well i wrote something really really long then i decided not to.

i agree with most of comment and appreciate the suggestions while too straight or overwhelmimg comments were also there.

I am not the stereo GOD nor the editor of car stereo magazine. so relax everyone. I have some good set ups such as jl12's and a pair of alpine splits and 3way 6's at the back and all that to stupid brand 6x9's and 4' 2ways.

cheers.

p.s really.. why alpines? why not. i am not rich like you.. so i PREFRE>>.
 

VR-04-TT

1 AYC Bar
Location
NSW
First Name
Paul
Drive
2005 Liberty 3.0R Spec B
There's some good advice and threads on systems on www.caraudioaustralia.com, unfortunately now you do have to wade through a lot of garbage though. I haven't been on there for a while, but mr_bob and shiny_car know their shite very very well.
 
G

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Unregistered
if you had a better battery you wouldnt get the fluctuations in your head lights or internal lights

Gel cell 700cca ish is plenty good enough??? Or was I misguided by the guy selling them???
 
G

Guest

Unregistered
well i wrote something really really long then i decided not to.

i agree with most of comment and appreciate the suggestions while too straight or overwhelmimg comments were also there.

I am not the stereo GOD nor the editor of car stereo magazine. so relax everyone. I have some good set ups such as jl12's and a pair of alpine splits and 3way 6's at the back and all that to stupid brand 6x9's and 4' 2ways.

cheers.

p.s really.. why alpines? why not. i am not rich like you.. so i PREFRE>>.
for the same price as alpine type r splits you could pick up a set of mb quart, bostons, focal, hertz etc etc etc
 
G

Guest

Unregistered
Gel cell 700cca ish is plenty good enough??? Or was I misguided by the guy selling them???
whats the cca figure for your stock battery, how does your gell cell compare in size to the standard battery, what brand is your gell cell
 
G

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Unregistered
The standard battery is a 560cca calcium battery and the size is a little bigger but it is in a commo and here is the supplier of the battery I got how ever I paid 500 for the battery here in South Aus by a mate of mine.

http://www.batteriesdirect.com.au/shop/store.php?crn=361&rn=772&action=show_detail

However you would be better off getting one of these http://www.optimabatteries.com.au/ you will get better life and better starting power if you are only doing short trips. I need more power storage as too higher discharge the spiral battery gives.
 

Chris Rogers

Leaving Skid Marks
Location
QLD
First Name
Chris Rogers
Drive
wagon
if you had a better battery you wouldnt get the fluctuations in your head lights or internal lights

exactly and if you did an upgrade of your alternator wiring as well. as it sits the wiring is capable of running the car not an additional 100-150 draw (assuming a BIG stereo.) on top of the car.

See the optima range of batteries for a start.


as for the main question (big shops) - I could write a 2 page essay on that but its not worth it.
 
G

Guest

Unregistered
There's some good advice and threads on systems on www.caraudioaustralia.com, unfortunately now you do have to wade through a lot of garbage though. I haven't been on there for a while, but mr_bob and shiny_car know their shite very very well.

Spot the old school member...

It hasn't been called that for a long time. Mr_Bob doesn't post anymore, Shiny Car now has a phenomenal post count...

http://www.mobileelectronics.com.au/
 

Chris Rogers

Leaving Skid Marks
Location
QLD
First Name
Chris Rogers
Drive
wagon
he imports a lot of that from the USA last I looked.

buy local.

CAA is a start but a lot of the industry members seem to be getting jack of 'experts' telling them their jobs hence they do not post any more. I'm the exception. I got tossed out due to politics.
 
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