Which 6inch has the best bass?

[Guest]

Hi guys just wondering what the best 6 inch speakers there are? i have alpines up th front which are really clear, just after something in the back with good bass without resorting to a sub woofer. sound clarity doesnt have to be great just the bass.

cheers

 

[steveP]

u wont get sub bass out of speakers, as thats not their job. if u dont have a sub u will be missing a fair chunk of frequencies out of ur music.

with speakers u want good mid bass, but to get this u will need to amp them. (its been a while, but i think in the range of 50hz to around 120hz will be ur mid bass).

from many years of playing around with stereo's. get the most clear, crisp sounding speakers u can get. then get a sub for the remaining frequencies the speakers cant produce.


but no matter what, avoid 6x9's at all costs. they are evil, they are speakers that try to partially act like subs. however due to the cone surface area and the magnet design for speakers, they will never truly replicate sub bass. and when you put them into a system with already a sub, the bass they do produce will cancel out the part of the sub bass.

they are for people on a budget who dont really know much about stereos.

 

[Guest]

i really dont want a 'doof doof' mobile, not really looking for that bone thumping bass from a sub, like the alpine 6inch type s i have up the front are awesome, maybe i should just get another pair of those, but the again i really dont need the tweeter that comes with it

 

[steveP]

a sub doesnt mean ur car is gona sound doof doof hektic. it means u will get the FULL RANGE of frequenices when listening to ur music.

i got a MB Quart system all around, and the sub is perfectly balanced with all the other components. the people who have doof doof from their cars have their gains blasted, and if u actually sit in their car, everything sounds like shit.

 

[Guest]

you could always get a small amp and a 8" sub and fit it in the factory option area in a legnum.

its right hand side off the boot, just behind the ayc filler and in front of the wheel arch,
if you pull the carpet out you will see the markings for the sub cutout on the carpet and where the sub bracket bolts to the chassis (precut)

 

[pu-11-me]

What Steve said....

Also, if you REALLY REALLY REALLY don't want a sub, and it is a life threatening situation, just get a second set of splits, and add the woofer to your front crossover. (Ie, two woofers on the one crossover, 1 tweeter)

 

[Joe Bellissimo]

6" Woofers do not re-create bass. Trust me, I have tried. I have even used $800 worth of processing in my car to do it. It worked for a while but I quickly found out that the motor and suspension on a 6" woofer is not designed for it and ends its life early if you try it.

If you desperately don't want a subwoofer (and an 8" woofer like what has been suggested is a definite possiblity) my company offers these: http://www.shoppingsecure.com.au/index.php?_a=viewProd&productId=53

Its a 10" subwoofer with a 6x9 cone. THOSE are able to work just like subs.

Another way to get more bass (midbass to be exact) is to replace those front speakers. Deadening in the front doors will also enhance the bass response.

There are MANY different combinations to achieve your desired goals all of which are less effective than a subwoofer. I have sent you a PM with my MSN address, theres lots more I can discuss with you and help you find an appopriate solution.

 

[Guest]

6" Woofers do not re-create bass. Trust me, I have tried. I have even used $800 worth of processing in my car to do it. It worked for a while but I quickly found out that the motor and suspension on a 6" woofer is not designed for it and ends its life early if you try it.

If you desperately don't want a subwoofer (and an 8" woofer like what has been suggested is a definite possiblity) my company offers these: http://www.shoppingsecure.com.au/index.php?_a=viewProd&productId=53

Its a 10" subwoofer with a 6x9 cone. THOSE are able to work just like subs.

Another way to get more bass (midbass to be exact) is to replace those front speakers. Deadening in the front doors will also enhance the bass response.

There are MANY different combinations to achieve your desired goals all of which are less effective than a subwoofer. I have sent you a PM with my MSN address, theres lots more I can discuss with you and help you find an appopriate solution.

my front speakers are fine and DO NOT need replacing they are ALPINE type s, top quality and and does the exact job i need it too, i am NOT after a sub what so ever, just a pair of 6inch for the rear doors.

 

[cyber_scriber]

Gareth.

Based on your described requirements and specifically, that you must use a speaker of around 6 inches for the rear doors, Dawso offers the most practical solution.

Buy yourself a 6.5 inch midrange speaker and ensure that it is appropriately high and low passed to only play midrange frequencies. Take special note of the size of the magnet and voice coil. Generally, the larger the size, the more power and response. Will your rear speakers be amped?

What is your budget? This will allow us to give you a real world solution to your requirements. For example, Dynaudio make a 7 inch midrange with a frequency response right down to 40hz (sub bass) and it will fit in most factory 6.5 inch holes with a spacer. However, you won't get much change from $700 and it would be pointless without decent amplification.

I'm thinking that you don't want to spend that kind of money (and generally, you should spend much more on your front speakers than your rears). Therefore, this might be a good option:

http://www.mobileelectronics.com.au...n-c2-60-6-0-2-way-coaxial-speakers/p_339.html

It has good sensitivity and frequency response, is 3 ohm so it does more with less power, and is reasonably priced at $139.

Do understand though that in order to play good bass, you need cone surface area. 6 inches is generally insufficient for this purpose.

If you have the flexibility to forego the 6 inch requirement, other flexible solutions to a full sized subwoofer and enclosure include slim line subs, infinite baffle subs, bazookas, bass canons and sub and amp combos in a slim line package.

 

[Joe Bellissimo]

No need to get defensive about it but when your suggesting that you might get exactly the same set of speakers to perform a task that it was not designed to do then it raises alarm bells.

In all honesty if you want to go down the same path that I did then give these a try:
http://www.spldynamics.fi/hf-comp/hf-61-e.htm

As cyber_scriber said, a 6" simply will not give great results, unless your really not fussy and are looking for a little bit of reinforcement.

I'm sorry for being harsh about it but after the effort I went through trying to get bass in a car without using a subwoofer I'm trying to save you the time and money.

 

[steveP]

^^^ agree. the OT poster may not like hearing he will have to fork out and make room for a sub. but its what WORKS. building stereos is all about trial and error until u get it right. so listen to people who have got it right.

my front speakers are fine and DO NOT need replacing they are ALPINE type s, top quality and and does the exact job i need it too, i am NOT after a sub what so ever, just a pair of 6inch for the rear doors.

umm i wouldnt say Type S alpines are top quality but.

 

[Guest]

look money is no issue, i dont want the sub bc i need the boot space and dont want that much bass, i have kids. all i was imply asking was what speakers would i need to replace the stock ones as they are stuffed. the type s like i previously said are more then enough for may application, i just want to know if they were bassier ones out there otherwise i as just going with the same set again. no where in my thread didit say i wanted to build some kick ass stereo, dosnt interest me in the slightest, my car is about performance not about a sub. i obviously am not clued up on al th stereo lingo thats why i was asking the question
im looking at alpines type r i think

 

[Guest]

Gareth.

Based on your described requirements and specifically, that you must use a speaker of around 6 inches for the rear doors, Dawso offers the most practical solution.

Buy yourself a 6.5 inch midrange speaker and ensure that it is appropriately high and low passed to only play midrange frequencies. Take special note of the size of the magnet and voice coil. Generally, the larger the size, the more power and response. Will your rear speakers be amped?

What is your budget? This will allow us to give you a real world solution to your requirements. For example, Dynaudio make a 7 inch midrange with a frequency response right down to 40hz (sub bass) and it will fit in most factory 6.5 inch holes with a spacer. However, you won't get much change from $700 and it would be pointless without decent amplification.

I'm thinking that you don't want to spend that kind of money (and generally, you should spend much more on your front speakers than your rears). Therefore, this might be a good option:

http://www.mobileelectronics.com.au...n-c2-60-6-0-2-way-coaxial-speakers/p_339.html

It has good sensitivity and frequency response, is 3 ohm so it does more with less power, and is reasonably priced at $139.

Do understand though that in order to play good bass, you need cone surface area. 6 inches is generally insufficient for this purpose.

If you have the flexibility to forego the 6 inch requirement, other flexible solutions to a full sized subwoofer and enclosure include slim line subs, infinite baffle subs, bazookas, bass canons and sub and amp combos in a slim line package.

really not after an amp. not after a big stereo set up thanx mate for listening to my question and answering it

 

[frozen]

i wouldnt purchase type r's unless you plan to amplify more than the 50wrms that the head unit will put out per channel. Type S even run really well amplified further.

I'd say just get a set of coaxials probably just type s again, not really much else you can do without amplification.

My budget-wise recommendation for a half decent (FAR better than anything standard) would be to invest in a small 8" sub for the factory location (its out of the way, doesnt take up boot space), a small amplifier to power it (sit under driver seat) and a small 4ch amp to power your 4 speakers (sit under passenger seat) that way no room is taken up, and you'll have a system which is quite loud and clear for the days you're cruising and want some good quality loud tunes.

Budget is up to you. If you're happy with the type S, get them again, and perhaps a small amplifier - the more power you get into them the more sound you will get out of them. The power the head unit will be putting out will cause distortion whenever you try increase the bass - distortion happens when the speakers arent getting enough power for the desired volume..

Check boostcruising for cheap amps if you like - probably even speakers - you'd pay well under half price for something that works as if it were new. I sold an amp that cost me $1000 for $350

 

[cyber_scriber]

thanx mate for listening to my question and answering it

No problems Gareth.

I suspected that you were after a simple, drop in solution with minimum fuss.

To be honest, as we are limiting ourselves to around 6 inches, there isn't going to be a massive difference in "sub bass" (more likely mid bass) between speakers of around the same price.

As you will be powering the rear speakers off the head unit, go for a pair with very high sensitivity (higher than 90dB), a big magnet / voice coil and made by a known and respected brand.

This is why I suggested you take a look at the Orion speakers. They have excellent sensitivity and because they are 3 ohm, this means that they will be able to make better use of the limited power provided by your head unit. The bonus is that they're on sale for a good price.

Just make sure that whatever speaker you go with, that they are appropriately high and low passed via a crossover. This just means that the speaker won't play very low bass (which will damage it over time) or very high treble (which is not really required for rear fill duties).

Some head units have built in crossovers, as do most amps. Alternatively, you can buy cheap capacitors from Jaycar that do the same thing.

 

[pu-11-me]

Dawso offers the most practical solution

Haha, Bruce just summed it up for you mate, what are you waiting for

 

[Poita]

You will not get the effect you are after with just a simple pair of unamped 6" splits or coaxials.
A normal car headunit will only put out 15-20Wrms. Ignore the 54W rubbish, its PMPO and will not be able to sustain that for more than a few milliseconds and even then its as distorted as all hell. So you will not get the current required to move a speaker cone in the frequencies you want out of the headunit.
Any 6.5" driver that can produce a reasonable amount of bass (mid-bass) will need at least 50Wrms as has already been stated. So you would need an amp.
If you want bass (say below 80Hz) you will needs a sub and amp, even a small 8".
If you want mid bass, something like some Hertz 165 6.5" splits with a small 2 channel amp will be ok. But then other things like sealing, deadening, sound tiles, solid mounting etc all start making a big difference as well. Hertz speakers are a typical American design that can put out quite a reasonable amount of midbass but do need to be amped. Some of the Morel entry level range are quite good at nice clear midbass as well.

Otherwise, you could just get a second pair of coaxials for the boot and be happy with the level you get, which won't be anything fancy, but you can't ask for something which is unachievable given your criteria. Running off the headunit's internal amp though will mean you need to look for something that has a pretty high sensitivity (ie 89dB+).

 

[Joe Bellissimo]

Did you find a solution yet?

 

[Chris Rogers]

to be honest - look at the lower end rainbow gear. that is fairly efficent and if you have a decent amount of "radio" power they work quite well. that said power WILL wake them up.

deaden the doors properly and deaden th entire car and it will do wonders for the overall sound.

happy to chat about them if you like. alnything alpine/orion will reqiure power to work properly. if you are in sydney or brisbane (I didn't look) then I can have a demo car for you to listen to. .

 

[GoldenDragoon]

You will not get the effect you are after with just a simple pair of unamped 6" splits or coaxials.
A normal car headunit will only put out 15-20Wrms. Ignore the 54W rubbish, its PMPO and will not be able to sustain that for more than a few milliseconds and even then its as distorted as all hell. So you will not get the current required to move a speaker cone in the frequencies you want out of the headunit.
Any 6.5" driver that can produce a reasonable amount of bass (mid-bass) will need at least 50Wrms as has already been stated. So you would need an amp.
If you want bass (say below 80Hz) you will needs a sub and amp, even a small 8".
If you want mid bass, something like some Hertz 165 6.5" splits with a small 2 channel amp will be ok. But then other things like sealing, deadening, sound tiles, solid mounting etc all start making a big difference as well. Hertz speakers are a typical American design that can put out quite a reasonable amount of midbass but do need to be amped. Some of the Morel entry level range are quite good at nice clear midbass as well.

Otherwise, you could just get a second pair of coaxials for the boot and be happy with the level you get, which won't be anything fancy, but you can't ask for something which is unachievable given your criteria. Running off the headunit's internal amp though will mean you need to look for something that has a pretty high sensitivity (ie 89dB+).

Just some more advice from exp... You will get ALOT more performance from exsisting speakers if they amped. As mentioned above there is no headunit out there that has any REAL power and thats what you need for any sort of low freq reproduction. Put a decent 4ch amp in and decent rears and power the lot from the amp. You will be amazed at how much better your system works.

Also as mentioned on the previous page the 6.5" speaker will not produce much more bass even if it is setup similar to a sub for 2 reasons. Even if you cut all the highs you will have room for mayb 10% performance increase in lows AT BEST. Also because you are trying to produce low freq from a small cone I believe you will get very directional sound... In other words you will need to sit in front of the speaker to hear it otherwise it will sound like its turned down.

I think the idea of an 8" sub in the back where the factory install would go sounds simple and neat and won't cost you space. You will also get results from even a cheap 8" purpose sub over any full range speaker conversion.

I myself am looking at improving the audio setup in my car but am not going to give away any space to speakers. In my mind that leaves on ly two real options and they are... The factory sub setup or a removable sub with plugs installed in the walls at the rear. The second option will give better performance but you will need to unplug and remove the setup when you need the space. If doof doof is not required I recommend looking into factory setup. With decent speakers it should give great sound with correct system setup and no compromise on space.

Food for thought.... Hope it helps...