6A13TT Engine rebuild

[sart0ri]

Has there ever been a successful group buy for forged pistons and rods? There are probably a few of us who's cars have done a few k's now.

 

[jungle]

If you can't source a front one, I have a spare, just needs a good clean probably acid dipped..

Sweet thanks Kristian I'll let you know.

I'll get back to about rods and pistons, i'm sorting something out now for all you power hungry mortals so watch this space....

 

[jet150]

Hey Simon what kind of power do you think the stock rods can handle?

When I install the GT2854's I would like to push towards the 300kw mark.

 

[jungle]

Hey Simon what kind of power do you think the stock rods can handle?

When I install the GT2854's I would like to push towards the 300kw mark.

Using the rods in my RB25 as a basis, id be very concerned at that power level with the standard rods. In short, i wouldn't attempt it. They may last for a short time but they are a known weak point. I'm not a metalurgist- wish i was at time, so i can't tell you when they'd fail. We know they'll handle ~220kW cause Bradc's does it. But how much beyond that, i wouldn't like to try.

Its a shame no one speaks Japanese, i'm sure the guys in the car scene there could tells us

Just wait a few weeks, i'll probably have a rods and piston combo sorted for the engine for everyone.

 

[Rasi]

This is going to be one interesting read.

Kudos to you Simon.

 

[jungle]

Today i took the head to one of my engine guys for a look, mainly to give me an idea on the valve train (similalr to an SR20) but also to get him to confirm what porting to do. Turn's out he said to remove the casting marks and that's it. There is a slight bump in the bowl near the port but for my application not enough to worry about.

So there you go, as i said very early on, the inlet and exhaust are straight shots at the valve and very efficient

I was going to acid clean the head but there's nothing to be gained with this head. It's in decent order.
I did a quick check how the valve seats were sealing and WHAM the inlet on one is leaking. Here's shot of what it looked like after ~8 minutes. I will tripple check to make sure the valve isn't slightly open but i'm happy it's not.


SO both head will cop new seats and valves will receive some attention as well.

I'll also check the valve stem seals and probably will just replace these, not a big cost anyway

The turbo's are in excellent condition and do not require a rebuild. That's great as it'll give me some "sprare" $$ if/when something else crops up.
Again, nothing to be gained porting the housings so my estimate of 185 is looking shaky
Next i'll be disassembling the breather covers.

 

[smohekey]

Have you just sat some liquid in there to see if it leaks? Its a bit hard to see in the picture, I think there's reflections etc off the liquid surface.

 

[Fred]

look on the l/h chamber. The liquid has seeped out.

 

[jungle]

The reflection is the liquid You can see the the far left one has only about 1/3 in it, the others are full

 

[smohekey]

Ahh.. it helps if I turn the lights on. Is it just water?

 

[snickells]

Hey Simon, host the pictures here man, that way we can keep this work-log as a record for future generations

 

[jungle]

Can do Steve!
i'll edit the post

 

[jungle]

Ahh.. it helps if I turn the lights on. Is it just water?

You can user water or kero. I used water in this case. Kero will find the hole best if there's one there.

 

[jungle]

**UPDATE**

Had a spare hour this evening so i did a little bit on the head/engine cover.

Took one of the cams off to have a look. Same as an EVO, just less 1 cylinder!
So cleaning the lifters will be easy

Decided i'll give the thing a good clean and atm, polished cam covers are currently my number 1 choice.

Here she is sans cam caps

Cam out exposing underneath

Hard to show in still pics but this just lifts off exposing the lifter which just lifts straight out

I drilled out the baffles cover. I'll insert some steel wool in the little baffled sections.

Short update but its something. Probably get back to it in a week or so...

 

[unclepaulie]

cool, so can explain in a little more detail what you are doing and what it does/affects

 

[jungle]

dropped of the last pic

 

[jungle]

Jesus Paulie, you jumped in, in the minute it took the add the dropped pic!!

 

[jungle]

I'll clean all the lash adjuster/lifters. This will take some time- you do it in parafin while operating the mechanism. this will free up and clean out any crap in there. I gather i will find some that are stuck which i expect on my 10% of them. I expect each one to take around 5 minutes so X by 24

The whole idea of wha you see in the pics is to clean out any old oil and carbon deposits. I've seen cars so choked up with carbon and baked oil that run fine, but as soon as you change the oil or remove the cam cover, something moves and it's goodbye engine.

Same applies here, but on a lesser scale. Just want to remove the chance of a pice of carbon blocking the fine oil galleries and free up the lash mechanisms.
Plus i'll add some steelwool to help reduce oil misting and entering the inlet manifold. I'll be running a catch-can from the start so that'll eliminate any chance of shit in the induction system

 

[snickells]

Hell yea they are some great pictures Simon. Thanks for sharing them and this project with us, seriously.

 

[Dr_Josh001]

Hey Simon, love your work. Are the lifters and rockers very tedious to re-install? Do they need special adjustment to get right again. I'm looking at what you are at the moment and seeing this is my first engine strip down am a little tentative.
Also those bolts either side of each valve set I'm assuming those hold the heads to the block?

Cheers
Josh