NA RB? yes please!
6A13TT Engine rebuild
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bradc
1 AYC Bar
NA 6A13, there are thousands of them in NZ 
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- #63
Really? I'm guessing they're standard then Brad?
My engine guy in Sydney commented on the 6A13, he reckoned it would be a ball tearer as an NA. I'm only repeating what he told me.
He made a 1UZ (4 litre Toyota quad cam V8) for a guy, it made bit over 450hp at the wheels and spun to 8000rpm. It was off its guts:lol: I saw it go together when i was building my RB25- shit that was 7 years ago now..
Paul, there are a number of NA26's in Japan, I don't have any info on how they perform.
And just to avoid any confusion, the NA i was referring to in my last post was a 6A!
My engine guy in Sydney commented on the 6A13, he reckoned it would be a ball tearer as an NA. I'm only repeating what he told me.
He made a 1UZ (4 litre Toyota quad cam V8) for a guy, it made bit over 450hp at the wheels and spun to 8000rpm. It was off its guts:lol: I saw it go together when i was building my RB25- shit that was 7 years ago now..
Paul, there are a number of NA26's in Japan, I don't have any info on how they perform.
And just to avoid any confusion, the NA i was referring to in my last post was a 6A!
oh, let down.
but a NA 6a13 in a lancer would be off the chain
but a NA 6a13 in a lancer would be off the chain
king_panther
Gettin' tanked
- Location
- New South Wales
- First Name
- Brad
- Drive
- 2012 VW Caddy 1.6TDI 7-Speed DSG. Still crappy DSG.....
I'm guessing that's a reference to the ST/ST-Rs Brad? They're a 2.5 V6 SOHC (ours a DOHC) with about 125kw from memory. SEVS won't allow them in as the power-to-weight ratio isn't high enough, though I've seen a few on CarSales pop up from NZers who've brought them over here.
The wheels for my Grandpa came off a ST-R that a compliance shop had brought over trying to get them approved for import.
s13 obviously lol...wait, id put it in my future cressida
bradc
1 AYC Bar
Yep, 25ST and 25ST-R. They make 129kw and I've had one for 60,000km now and just getting another one built up. They are a superb combo, 91 octane plus 700km tanks easy.
- Thread starter
- #71
And so it starts...
The block has been machined, off to get new welsh plugs. Hopefully the rings will arrive next week and the assembly will begin. I am taking a week off next week to start the process. Hope to have it complete by end of the following week.
Only thing that may delay that is the arrival of the new engine mounts ordered from the US. Wanker took 2 weeks to come up with a shipping cost:angry:
Will remove the old engine/gearbox next week and send the clutch off to NPC for a newie.
The block has been machined, off to get new welsh plugs. Hopefully the rings will arrive next week and the assembly will begin. I am taking a week off next week to start the process. Hope to have it complete by end of the following week.
Only thing that may delay that is the arrival of the new engine mounts ordered from the US. Wanker took 2 weeks to come up with a shipping cost:angry:
Will remove the old engine/gearbox next week and send the clutch off to NPC for a newie.
- Thread starter
- #72
Little update.
Today i prepped the crank. That involved installing it into the lathe and removing 2 years worth of potential crap on all the rotating surfaces. It was in decent nik, just a few spots that needed some attention. 1200grit sand paper followed up by a buffing pad. Then had fun with a water gurney, then into the kero bath cleaning the galleries, followed by an air dry and then some ninox to keep in rust free until its needed.
Pulled down one of the heads. Removed everything and aquainted myself with Mitsu's valve train. One of the valve seats had some rust spotting as it's been sitting open for the 2 years i've had it. Head is soaking in kero bath overnight.
Valve pic is inlet and exhaust with old valve stem seals in background.
Tomorrow i'll strip the other head and check the oil pump.
Still waiting for the rings and head bolts from Japan/NZ.
Today i prepped the crank. That involved installing it into the lathe and removing 2 years worth of potential crap on all the rotating surfaces. It was in decent nik, just a few spots that needed some attention. 1200grit sand paper followed up by a buffing pad. Then had fun with a water gurney, then into the kero bath cleaning the galleries, followed by an air dry and then some ninox to keep in rust free until its needed.
Pulled down one of the heads. Removed everything and aquainted myself with Mitsu's valve train. One of the valve seats had some rust spotting as it's been sitting open for the 2 years i've had it. Head is soaking in kero bath overnight.
Valve pic is inlet and exhaust with old valve stem seals in background.
Tomorrow i'll strip the other head and check the oil pump.
Still waiting for the rings and head bolts from Japan/NZ.
lookin good. cant wait till this is back together.
good work on the progress shots too
good work on the progress shots too
- Thread starter
- #74
Stripped the other head this morning. Man, I was fast with the experience of the first one. Took about 8 minutes total I reckon!
Had fun with the head that spent the night in the kero bath. Got a lot of the oil sludge off and spent a long time on the galleries. They were in decent nik though.
Can see the head with everything in it, then with the cams out and stripped off everything but the valves.
One thing that is very apparent for any of you that have rebuilt or at least seen any RB series head. The 6A has fantastic oil returns from the head. They are huge compared to RB engines- streets ahead. Very good cooling galleries as well.
If i was after more hp i would spend the time cleaning up the ports. At first glance they seem pretty good, but on close inspection today, they are pretty poor. The bowl area that leads to the valve is actually quite bad. If someone is chasing more power, then cleaning these up will give very good gains. The casting and machining is shit. Concentrate on the short radius as well, it will give good result. I wouldn't bother doing anything but smoothing the area to the valve on the intake side, but exhaust, man, a lot of gain can be had here for who ever wants it. As mine is a street car, i'm not going to bother. It took an enormous amount of willpower not to to fix it.... I seriously wouldn't even port match anything. The valves are the limiting factor on the exhaust side, so much smaller than the ports area.
Didn't get to the oil pump, had some other things to take care off, but i have included a pic of the "backyard" machine i used to get the collets off- very, very effective.
I've included a pic(bad one) of the intakes path to the valves- it's a straight shot- awesome!!
The box is everything from both heads. Theres a quite a bit of crap there
My order for rings and head bolts was missed by Ralliart NZ- so the last 3 weeks has been for nothing- so getting them airfreighted. Bit disappointing, could have been assembling it late this week, no hurry now. Thanks to Bill though for covering the air freight charges
Bugger the pics have loaded in random order...
Had fun with the head that spent the night in the kero bath. Got a lot of the oil sludge off and spent a long time on the galleries. They were in decent nik though.
Can see the head with everything in it, then with the cams out and stripped off everything but the valves.
One thing that is very apparent for any of you that have rebuilt or at least seen any RB series head. The 6A has fantastic oil returns from the head. They are huge compared to RB engines- streets ahead. Very good cooling galleries as well.
If i was after more hp i would spend the time cleaning up the ports. At first glance they seem pretty good, but on close inspection today, they are pretty poor. The bowl area that leads to the valve is actually quite bad. If someone is chasing more power, then cleaning these up will give very good gains. The casting and machining is shit. Concentrate on the short radius as well, it will give good result. I wouldn't bother doing anything but smoothing the area to the valve on the intake side, but exhaust, man, a lot of gain can be had here for who ever wants it. As mine is a street car, i'm not going to bother. It took an enormous amount of willpower not to to fix it.... I seriously wouldn't even port match anything. The valves are the limiting factor on the exhaust side, so much smaller than the ports area.
Didn't get to the oil pump, had some other things to take care off, but i have included a pic of the "backyard" machine i used to get the collets off- very, very effective.
I've included a pic(bad one) of the intakes path to the valves- it's a straight shot- awesome!!
The box is everything from both heads. Theres a quite a bit of crap there
My order for rings and head bolts was missed by Ralliart NZ- so the last 3 weeks has been for nothing- so getting them airfreighted. Bit disappointing, could have been assembling it late this week, no hurry now. Thanks to Bill though for covering the air freight charges
Bugger the pics have loaded in random order...
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smitty
Sm'arter than the aver'age bear...!
- Location
- Frankston South, Victoria
- First Name
- Alex
- Drive
- 98 FL Galant Type S Manual, FG XR6, VY Acclaim, MQ Triton GLS
Mate top effort. Learning so much from your thread!
*subscribes*
*subscribes*
G
Guest
Unregistered
Are those lash adjusters the original factory items, or have you replaced them at some stage?
G
Guest
Unregistered
With all the problems people have, I would have expected the holes to be smaller. Those like they'd flow well.
- Thread starter
- #80
Today i finished off the remaining head and pulled apart the oil pump.
Oil pump is very similar to Nissan shit, although the gears are thicker and it has 2 drives off the crank rather than 1. It seems to be a better design than the Nissan version.
Backing plate as exepcted was ken hard to undo- nothing an impact drive coudln't handle
Engine mounts arrived today from the US, they are softer than i expected, which is good, don't want to increase the NVH.
Waiting on the rings to arrive before i do anymore as it's very close to assemble time.
Engine and gearbox should come out next week. So the pace will slow from now as i can't do much more till the engine is out so I can't removing accessories.
Here's the oil pump. Last one is it soaked and gurney'd I'll reassemble at the same time as the engine
Oil pump is very similar to Nissan shit, although the gears are thicker and it has 2 drives off the crank rather than 1. It seems to be a better design than the Nissan version.
Backing plate as exepcted was ken hard to undo- nothing an impact drive coudln't handle
Engine mounts arrived today from the US, they are softer than i expected, which is good, don't want to increase the NVH.
Waiting on the rings to arrive before i do anymore as it's very close to assemble time.
Engine and gearbox should come out next week. So the pace will slow from now as i can't do much more till the engine is out so I can't removing accessories.
Here's the oil pump. Last one is it soaked and gurney'd I'll reassemble at the same time as the engine
