SLY-031
Leaving Skid Marks
You wouldn't bother getting them from Nissan. Being a Garret turbo, go straight to the source.
Thanks for all the input guys.
I'm going to catch up with a guy from Skylines Australia on wednesday, he's selling a pair from a VSPECII for $500.
20k on standard boost and no shaft play.
Thanks for all the input guys.
I'm going to catch up with a guy from Skylines Australia on wednesday, he's selling a pair from a VSPECII for $500.
20k on standard boost and no shaft play.
What happened to the GT2554R's you were talking about in the other thread ?
Im not sure if you got me mixed with someone else but the only other turbo I was looking at was the Garrett GT2560R which is the T28.
Yeah a brand new unit costs about $1280 so i'll check out these R34 ones first.
Remember that changing the turbo's will mean bigger injectors, a fuel pump with more flow, potentially a different fuel rail and some sort of aftermarket ECU and pipe work be it intercooler and exhaust & tuning. Big dollars really.
Your right Simon, I went and checked out those R34 turbos but didn't buy them.
I went to a Garrett supplier today and spoke to them about a turbo upgrade and they told me to stay away from skyline turbos! They recomended me the GT2560r. Lots of power on tap and spools up quick to. These units are Ball Bearing, steel wheel not ceramic and can punch out 300-330 HP.
Now all I have to do is start saving.
I'm planning on getting a pair about this time next year.
.....
Hi everyone, been a long time since i've been on here, so hi.
I've written this before but thought it'd be a good time again in this thread.
Do your research, Garrett have a great website that has a lot of good info. This link lists all their medium frame turbo's http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarrett/products/turbochargers.html
Any nissan turbo be it from a 32, 33 or 34 run ceramic turbine wheels yes even the Vspec. N1's were for racing and have steel wheels. In short don't run them >14psi as they are getting old & have a habit of failing at/above that boost level.
In short the -7's are rated at 310 and are similar to N1's ( I have N1's on my current RB26)
-9's are 330
-5's are 360 and what i have on my new RB26/30 engine.
There are some 2560s still getting around and rated at 330. they are the same as the -9's just an old naming convention from Garrett.
There is also a 2556 which is rated at 270hp and this is what i'd go for with the EC5W engine.
You need to decide where in the rev range you want the power. More power means less response ALWAYS's. For 99.9% of member's here, the 2556 would be more suitable that the other's above. I wouldn't be pushing the engine above 400hp as the rods are the limiting factor, they have very little metal around the big end and don't inspire me much confidence.
Remember that changing the turbo's will mean bigger injectors, a fuel pump with more flow, potentially a different fuel rail and some sort of aftermarket ECU and pipe work be it intercooler and exhaust & tuning. Big dollars really.
Hope that helps, good luck.
BRAEFABRICATION a member of this site can make custom manifolds or adapter plates. He will be doing mine once I get the turbos.
There is also a 2556 which is rated at 270hp and this is what i'd go for with the EC5W engine.