I know it's a pain but glad we have a possible cause regarding sensors and throttle body.
Did yours display any symptoms like mine while driving?
Did yours display any symptoms like mine while driving?
Diagnostic codes list & how to read them (Check Engine Light)
- Thread starter Hotwire
- Start date
- Location
- Chicago
- First Name
- Mike
- Drive
- 1997 Mitsubishi Legnum VR4 COTY
2022 Subaru Outback Onyx XT
1999 Honda Civic EX
I do get this weird startup. It has about a half a second delay after it cranks over. It's almost like it's going to just die but then it starts running.
Ok that's different to mine, when it hits mine becomes undriveable , won't accelerate and feels like the intake pipe is leaking. Restarting clears the errors and it's back to normal.
- Location
- Chicago
- First Name
- Mike
- Drive
- 1997 Mitsubishi Legnum VR4 COTY
2022 Subaru Outback Onyx XT
1999 Honda Civic EX
That happened to me on my original throttle body. I took off the TPS sensors to clean them and when I put them back on. I did not readjust them properly. My car would only roll in drive, zero acceleration. After adjusting them properly it was fine. Then I bought a new throttle body and put that on which came with the TPS sensors already.
- Location
- Chicago
- First Name
- Mike
- Drive
- 1997 Mitsubishi Legnum VR4 COTY
2022 Subaru Outback Onyx XT
1999 Honda Civic EX
Put on the winter tires and the car threw an AYC code of 25. I was just wondering do I need to reset the ECU or is the car just letting me know that I had different tire diameter previously?
Winter tires - 205/55 16
Summer tires - 225/40 18
Winter tires - 205/55 16
Summer tires - 225/40 18
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- Location
- Chicago
- First Name
- Mike
- Drive
- 1997 Mitsubishi Legnum VR4 COTY
2022 Subaru Outback Onyx XT
1999 Honda Civic EX
Yes all are the same.
- Location
- Chicago
- First Name
- Mike
- Drive
- 1997 Mitsubishi Legnum VR4 COTY
2022 Subaru Outback Onyx XT
1999 Honda Civic EX
Dropped off the car this morning to have the tires inspected. Turned out that one of the new tires coned and had to be replaced.
Did you find a solution for the error codes? I have got exactly the same problems - weird startup and TCL 75 and engine 14 codes. When I step on and then release the gas pedal the check engine light comes on. TCL OFF is olways on. But on idle there is no check engine light. The engine is quiet, everything works perfectly and only 119.000 driven. No modifications just aftermarket intercooler and BOV. I appreciate any help, thanks.
I got this yesterday again after a few months of no issues.
Car drives fine though I'd say it takes out the ABS. Mine came on after boost at freeway speeds.
Plugged in laptop and had about 10 errors including maf temp, crank sensor, ecu strain and TPS.
Starting to think it may be a harness or connector issue and will have a good look today.
Car drives fine though I'd say it takes out the ABS. Mine came on after boost at freeway speeds.
Plugged in laptop and had about 10 errors including maf temp, crank sensor, ecu strain and TPS.
Starting to think it may be a harness or connector issue and will have a good look today.
- Location
- Chicago
- First Name
- Mike
- Drive
- 1997 Mitsubishi Legnum VR4 COTY
2022 Subaru Outback Onyx XT
1999 Honda Civic EX
I replaced a few sensors, spark plugs, wires, fuel pump. I also replaced the idler control valve but every once when I still have this issue. Someone had said it might be the car running to rich and the O2 sensor is saturated with fuel and needs to burn off. In the spring I'm going to hook up a fuel pressure regulator and rebuild the injectors. As far as the error lights, I found that they put the wrong size tires on the car. I got the correct tires put on in error codes were gone.
Today I have measured voltage on TPS between pins 2 and 4 and it gives me 584 mV which seems to be ok.
Then I have measured voltage on APS (IPS) also between pins 2 and 4 and it gives me 691 mV which seems to be ok too.
There is also resistance between pins 3 and 4.
According to the manual TPS voltage should be between 580 - 690 mV and for APS should be 400 - 1000 mV.
Everything seems to be fine. What should I try as a next step?
Can a boost leak causing it?
Then I have measured voltage on APS (IPS) also between pins 2 and 4 and it gives me 691 mV which seems to be ok too.
There is also resistance between pins 3 and 4.
According to the manual TPS voltage should be between 580 - 690 mV and for APS should be 400 - 1000 mV.
Everything seems to be fine. What should I try as a next step?
Can a boost leak causing it?
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